Very pissed off

Diesel JD

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I had problems with mine because the trans cooler/brake lines got in the way, I bent them out of the way and now get the FL1995 to fit easily. I am surprised those of you running turbo trucks don't insist on the PSD filter at minimum. Rebuilds get expensive, remember the 784 is way plenty for a NA motor but I don't trust it for a turbo application it was never designed for!
 

Cheaper Jeeper

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I thought about punching a hole and draining the filter first, but didn't want to risk getting oil on it before loosening it. But that's probably 'cause I tighten the snot out of them when I put them on.

Guess I could start loosening it, THEN punch a hole in it before screwing it off far enough for oil to leak from the gasket. Think I'll try that next time.....
 

sootman73

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thats why i get the k&n filter cuz it has like a 1" or 1-1/8" nut on the bottom. plus it filters better since its the psd filter. its more expensive but i think its worth it!
 

f-two-fiddy

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Here's another tip.

After you remove your oil filter, and are trying to drain the oil from it. Punch a hole all the way thru the bottom of it, with a nail.
You'll get most of the oil to drain out of the filter that way.
 

geonc

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Just sum FYI...you are filling the filter about 3/4 full before installing ....right?

Fill to where it just covers the O ring and while it is purging down {it will!} dip your finger in and coat the O ring. Top off by holding at the approx angle till 3/4 full....any more and when you install it....you armpits get an oil change as well LOL

A word of caution from one who has been there...be careful when punching a hole in the filter....I "USED" to do that until the oil filter header developed a small leak where it mounts to the block....seems the repeated punching was enough to shift the header, causing the leak!

Of course that was when I was changing the oil every 6 weeks!

I now use a cordless drill and self tapping screw ;Sweet
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Good call Geo, no sense in pounding on something when you can accomplish the same thing with a self tapper.
 

BigRigTech

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Personally, I would not fill a filter before installation....I used to do it but after talking with some tech rep's from Caterpillar I stopped doing it.....They have done tests and they swear there is less harm being done with an empty filter than a filter full of un-filtered oil....Dirt is dirt they say and even the new stuff in plastic jugs isn't as clean as you would think it would be. Oil filters go on dry at my shop standard practice as our oil is stored in a bulk tank. They fill in 2-5 seconds when you start the engine and that's ok with the amount of residual oil still on the bearings.
 

93turbo_animal

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I thought about punching a hole and draining the filter first, but didn't want to risk getting oil on it before loosening it. But that's probably 'cause I tighten the snot out of them when I put them on.

Guess I could start loosening it, THEN punch a hole in it before screwing it off far enough for oil to leak from the gasket. Think I'll try that next time.....

if ya put the hole in the bottom of the filter you won't get any oil on the sides
 

Agnem

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If you fill it through the big hole in the middle, isn't that upstream of the filter media?
 

93turbo_animal

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I've wondered that myself Mel I know a lot of fuel filters though are the other way. Big hole is the out side
 

BigRigTech

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Big hole is the "filtered" or outlet side....This is why you see all the dirt and metal on the outside of the media in a filter when you cut one open from the outside.
 

Optikalillushun

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wouldnt ya know it, its seeping from around where the filter mates to the filter head...i tightened it by hand to the best i could i guess i can try to get another 1/2 turn with a strap wrench...
 
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