Turning Up or Down The Pump

[tractorman86]

thats a good idea, that way you can be sure all of them are done right

 

[icanfixall]

These injectors have a torque value. They need 35 lbs of torque to be installed correctly. The hard line to the injector is 33 lbs and to the injection pump its 22 lbs. The glow plugs are torqued to 12 lbs.

 

[Optikalillushun]

i didnt torque mine down as i dont have crows feet or an open end socket :-(...i just did the "good n tight" method lol.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

yeah, I ain't got crow's feet wrenches either, and my torque wrench is a 1/2 drive anyways... I'll just swap out the washer, then go with the good n tight method

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Reporting back on the IP performance - all I have to say is a big wow! off idle to about 1500rpms the engine is a bit sluggish to pick up speed, but once it hits that it starts pulling like a freight train! I upshifts a bit above 3000rpms as I have the FIPL set to 4.3V at wide open throttle, but truth is I don't have to floor the pedal, tis like halfway down and truck starts picking up speed like I'm racing someone! No black smoke pouring out of the exhaust ever, even at WOT there's still no black smoke (or any other smoke for that matter), so I'm pretty sure I ain't overfueling it. I have no pyro gauge, but after the 2-mile crazy drive I just did I immediately popped the hood and felt for heat, well there's hardly any, even around the exhaust manifolds - I know what hot manifolds feel like on a gasser, these are nothing like it, I could keep my hand literally next to them and not feel any significant heat - not really possible if I was reaching 1000F or so. I could also hold the exhaust pipe's exit tip, it's pretty hot to touch but not hot enough to burn, not even close actually... So overall I think I got the truck to run like what you'd expect from what is essentially a big block with tons of low-end torque - I guess the soup bowl was really choking it, and previous owner turning down the IP and apparently retarding it didn't help the cause either. Now I just need to seal those injectors, and it'll be golden!

 

[zigg]

I re-adjust my pump twice a year and the screw always shows up by the timing mark, maybe I am just lucky.

That's not possible. No luck involved, If your timing marks are lined up, then the screw will not be visible in the window. The injection pump dowel will be either at the 4oclock position, or the 10 oclock position, and the screw is visible in the 12oclock position.

You need to realize that the pump turns once around for every 2 rotations of the engine, so timing marks will be aligned when #1 cylinder is at top of compression stroke, and top of exhaust stroke, but true TDC is top of compression, and when it is at TDC, the dowel pin will be at 4 oclock.

I don't ever recall their being a "promise" that the adjustment screw shows up with any reference to the timing gear marks.

The marks on the cam/injection pump gears are for assembly and reference of crank to cam, and cam to injection pump timing. These marks are virtually impossible to see once the engine is assembled.
I think the reference to "timing marks" is the timing marks on the harmonic balancer...

The timing marks (on the balancer and front plate) are to line up #1 piston to TDC. The screw on the pump gear will be visible when the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is at the 1 oclock position (after top of exhaust stroke) when seen from the front of the engine. So, if you put the harmonic balancer to the 1 oclock position, you may not see the screw, you then have to rotate the engine fully 360 degrees, and it will be visible.

Just a note...

Zigg

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Aight, y'all will laugh at that - tomorrow morning a friend needs a ride to pick up his truck from the repair shop (after his girl crashed it the very last day we had snow), and that's a bit of a drive, so I figured I'll do the fuel system tonight, and with my brandy-new 1" wrench I pulled the #4 injector - well, no wonder it wouldn't seal, there was no copper gasket under it!!! Bet them goofballs pulled it for whatever reason, but forgot to drop a new gasket in the hole before they reinstall it! So yeah, it don't leak now, and the #5 only had to be tightened down, no reefing needed on either. I also replaced most of the return caps and lines, still have the rear crossover line and the two front caps but it got a bit too cold so I'll finish those at some other time.

Question tho, how do glow-plugs harnesses attach to glow plugs? Do they just slide and clip on them like wires do on gasser spark plugs, or is there a thread area, or what?

 

[Diesel JD]

The bullet connectors snap onto the glow plug terminals(spade if you have an 83-86) much like a sparkplug I guess.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

cool, thanks JD

 

[duke-of-fords]

since were on the subject, my buddys got a 93 7.3 idi and he tryed to turn it up but the damn allen head would NOT move!!???? then we heard about the screw on the inlet line from the filter, he turned that 1/8 of a turn. what is your opions on that????

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Duke, the allen screw has locking threads apparently, to turn mine I used a regular 5/32 allen wrench and sticked the long end in the pump, then slid a 5/32 deep socket on the short end to get some leverage, and still it wasn't very easy to get it to move. That external screw was discussed not too long ago, IIRC tis only for the idle fuel, or something like that.