Turbo options.

[79jasper]

Technically any of them can be upgraded.
Maybe pm typ4 or see if he ends up commenting here.
I can say a waste gated banks makes boost pretty low and carries on out.


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[drinkypoo]

You should get 11 psi peak from the banks. And this (from the ATS 093 documentation) applies to the ATS 093 and to the Ford factory turbo as well, ISTR there is some spec in the 93-94 turbocharged IDI supplement PDF which you should be able to google pretty easy; if not, let me know.

NOTE; This system comes with an adjustable wastegate. The
adjustable wastegate is set to a maximum of 7 l/2 to 8 PSI
from the factory. Attempting to adjust the wastegate to a
higher manifold pressure will result in an actual HP loss.

How true that last part is, I can't say. My ATS 088 has produced as much as 10 or perhaps even 11 psi in the real world while going uphill with a load.

Regardless, you turn the injection pump up 120 degrees, or two flats of the hex. Pretty easy, you just have to get the pump in the right position and then pop off that little cover on the side, at which point a whole bunch of fuel will come out You definitely want pyro and boost. You can get a cheap good pyro gauge from VDO. I used an Auber digital from eBay with an ISSPRO thermocouple with a weatherpack connector, fancy pants. The wire was broken off the original pyro, and then it turned out the gauge was bad too. I have an ISSPRO boost gauge in my truck, but I have the VDO 1 bar boost gauge in my 300SD and it is extremely responsive. VDO made the OE cluster in that car so I decided to stick with them to keep the look unified.

 

[89Laredo]

Weak block?

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[ToughOldFord]

I don't know the coding, but if it's an '85 block then it's not the early 'weak' block, 83-84. And the weak area is around the block heater. Solution is not to use the block heater on the early blocks, problem solved.

It's not relevant to turbo use.

 

[89Laredo]

I asked in anther thread. It is the weak block. I swapped this engine in (was out of a bus, still had red fuel in the filter when I put it in).
I used my block heater all winter (3 hrs at a time usually) and didnt have a problem,. :knock on wood: That was in Mi, Im in Iowa now. Neither one are very warm in winter so I dont have much of a choice. Run the heater or try to start the truck on just glowplugs at -15.

I sent turbo guy a message today to see if he sold anything yet. Didnt get a response.

 

[ToughOldFord]

Yeah, sounds like you don't have much of a choice, but there are those in line block heaters, goes in a radiator hose IIRC. Subject's come up a couple of times, but it doesn't get that cold here so I never looked into it. Might be a good way to avoid damage to your A block.

Off road diesel in a bus.... wonder how they justified that? It's an off road bus officer, honest!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

From what I was told, the cracking problem came from plugging in the block heater when the engine was cold. All of the hot water around the cold, thinner metal of the block would crack it. If you plug it in when the engine's warm, such as when you get home, it won't crack. It does run up your electric bill a little higher though.

 

[89Laredo]

Off road diesel in a bus.... wonder how they justified that? It's an off road bus officer, honest!

Is my understanding that lots of county/state vehicles and school busses use red fuel. I know our "county connection" busses are white and always had red stains down the side by the fuel door.
The red doesn't necessarily mean "offroad", it just means the state and federal taxes haven't been paid on it, some of which is "road tax".

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Haven't heard from the turbo guy.

Ad is still up but he hasn't responded to my messages.

 

[ToughOldFord]

Yep, that's all 'off-road' diesel is, there's nothing different than it and what's sold at the pumps other than it's dyed to indicate that it hasn't had fuel tax paid on it so if you get caught using it on the road you are in BIG trouble. Figures the local municipalities would exempt themselves, do as I say, not as I do.

 

[89Laredo]

I heard back from turbo guy.
The banks is sold. Still has 94 fact turbo and ats. Both on engines. I asked for a price on the ats without engine, he is supposed to be thinking about it. This would work out better for me, I can drive the jeep the 100 MI each way with no worries instead of the truck which has a bad flex plate ring gear. I have a rebuilddable engine in MI still and I'm thinking about buying my BILs 6.9 parts truck so I don't need another engine laying around.

 

[bigtex]

Look into hypermax. Im not really a banks fan because they are expensive and you really pay for the name. I have some friends that use the hpermax kit and love it, kit was around 2000 bones or so

 

[drinkypoo]

Look into hypermax. Im not really a banks fan because they are expensive and you really pay for the name. I have some friends that use the hpermax kit and love it, kit was around 2000 bones or so

Hypermax is not an option. The options are ATS 093 or Ford factory detuned ATS 093.

 

[89Laredo]

Hypermax is not an option. The options are ATS 093 or Ford factory detuned ATS 093.

Yes. I dont plan on dumping 2k into a rusty old farm truck.

This is IF they are still around next weekend. I may be stuck with one or the other, or they both might sell by then.
Two week pay periods suck.

 

[Andertusa]

I wil preface my rely with a declaration that I have ZERO 'true' knowledge of turbo informations such as model numbers and such, but I will relate info that I obtained from a book I bought on turbo-ing engines.

If you are thinking of having a turbo on your engine, you will want the turbo to be from a smaller engine to develop boost. If using a set of turbos for example, and you were running a 6.9, you'd want the combined air-feeding potential of both turbos to likely be in the range of 6.8 displacement, so the larger engine is driving the turbo in a 'overdriven' fashion. So two turbos from something like 3.4 engines would work better than a turbo from a larger engine.

That 7.3 turbo will work as-is, but the gains will be negligible due to the lack of exhaust pressure to drive the turbine. However, that's why there is an aftermarket practice where builders will buy turbos for as cheap as possible, break them down, and do things like replace the turbine section for that 7.3 turbo kit with a turbine from a turbo for the 6.9, so the exhaust pressure is roughly the same as with the 6.9 turbo, but since the compressor is larger, the assembled turbo is theoretically capable of feeding the engine more air volume.

 

[drinkypoo]

That 7.3 turbo will work as-is, but the gains will be negligible due to the lack of exhaust pressure to drive the turbine. However, that's why there is an aftermarket practice where builders will buy turbos for as cheap as possible, break them down, and do things like replace the turbine section for that 7.3 turbo kit with a turbine from a turbo for the 6.9, so the exhaust pressure is roughly the same as with the 6.9 turbo, but since the compressor is larger, the assembled turbo is theoretically capable of feeding the engine more air volume.

That "7.3 turbo" was sold by ATS for both the 6.9 and 7.3. This information is in the PDFs, which are readily available.