turbo/firewall clearance issue

[typ4]

bell on the trans is easier BECAUSE you dont have to fight the clutch fork.

 

[rhkcommander]

got it on there and bolted in! thanks for the help. smashing the firewall lip made it much easier. had to rotate engine until the shaft lined up with the clutch

 

[rhkcommander]

Everything is done except turbo downpipe being bolted back on to turbo, and wiring and the core support crap. And belts. Ran out of time n enerrgy to finish it off. Ill update engine thread inna bit. Thanks all for helping.

 

[jaluhn83]

If you have the motor out, a port-o-power setup makes real easy work of modifying the firewall... late to the gate, I know, but good for future reference. I had good luck bracing the ram between the crossmember and the lip and using the big rubber ball tip in my set on the lip end.... nice easy and controlled.

 

[riotwarrior]

If you have the motor out, a port-o-power setup makes real easy work of modifying the firewall... late to the gate, I know, but good for future reference. I had good luck bracing the ram between the crossmember and the lip and using the big rubber ball tip in my set on the lip end.... nice easy and controlled.

That's a great idea, so long as one has one! Hmm...I"m going to play with that idea I got one and a cab still connected

On my brown SC Ive got little to no rust but several cracks so, I'm going to cut the lip off and weld in a flat panel for clearance in that area clean it right up! This whilst welding up cracks all over and be done! Being another logging companies truck I am seeing it twisted n turned lots thus the cracking...

Glad you got it in and

WHERE ARE THE PICTURES!

 

[rhkcommander]

how long should I have to crank on it before I get oil coming out of the turbo oil-feed line?

everything is basically back in except grill and bumper, and radiator. Oh and I need to finish tightening motor mounts
Engine cranks over good, not seeing any oil puffs coming out of the CDR hose either - no cdr on at the moment. Just hose. Old engine use to weeze oil out... is this normal?

 

[rhkcommander]

Old Engine

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New UHaul Engine + Freshly Ceramic Coated Exhaust from manifolds to downpipe

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This was the start of me pounding out the firewall lip. I gave it much more hell than what the picture shows. Having more clearance back here is always a good thing

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Pre-firewall pounding, post-pressure washing. So much gunk everywhere

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Magically the engine put itself in and pulled the core support over itself . I thought I took pictures before putting the core support on. No idea where they went

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With an impact gun and a few extensions the core is cake to get off. Two large bolts hold it to the frame, and tons of little ones hold the sides to the fenders and battery trays.

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Head lights are easy as could be - 2 nuts go on the core support, 2 through the little core support-fender bracket.

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There is the valley pan, the big hole is where the turbo drains, the one next to it is a hole too. This good enough or do I need to chisel it?

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To-Do:
So its almost ready to run.

• I need to hook up the return line tee to the fuel tank line, dunno where that hose went.
• finish bleeding turbo oil feed line
• Need to finish tightening motor mounts.
• Need to bolt and clamp radiator in and fill.
• find or replace vacuum pump belt
• throw my 4" ram air intake on and put the cdr on that came with the uhaul engine
• Need to finish bleeding clutch (pumped it up n down manually about 100x, heard hissing, it finally held itself up and returned on its own for a while then went limp again later.
• Finish tightening that one hard to reach bolt on downpipe ( the one you cant fit a boxed wrench on either (i should've made more room here by grinding some of the dp-weld out of the way ))
• mount the glowplug relay to the firewall (look close at pics and you will see 2 studs coming from it) and attach my custom wiring
• maybe change the wellman glowplugs that came in the engine out to the beru that were in the old engine that were only used a handful of times
• mount bumper and grill. either order or make front receiver hitch since the one I ordered is a foot too narrow...
• Start and Drive?

Eventually I want to do install my VDO oil pressure and temperature gauges, I just need to take the other sender out of the turbo tee, and buy the vdo senders. And replace the rubber body mounts with those red energy suspension ones
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.4107
Shoulda Coulda woulda done it before reassembly if I could've gotten them in town. Oh well. I also need to replace the rubber in the spring shackles. And I could use new tires ;p

 

[79jasper]

The smaller hole in the valley pan should have a hollow bolt in it. 3/8 ratchet drive iirc.

You could just put the turbo oil feed line in a jar or something and crank a bit. That way you won't make a mess. Shouldn't take long.
I believe someone said it's not really necessary to do that. As oil should reach it pretty fast anyways.
But if so inclined, could just pour some oil in the inlet.

Once you get in running, the clutch may bleed itself.
Also the correct way is to push the rod in at the slave. Is that what you're doing?

 

[rhkcommander]

The rod that sits against the clutch fork? I had to press it multiple times to get it on there again. Im assuming i just force it back n forth?

Ive had the oil line sitting in a bottle n cranked maybe 5x for 10 seconds roughly. I dont wanna fry the turbo bearing so im just being careful..

 

[79jasper]

I understand.

And yes, the little rod on the clutch fork. He's a booger too.
If Al stops by, he can confirm or deny. I think he has a tech article on bleeding.

 

[rhkcommander]

Found this:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?37538-clutch-wont-bleed!!

Gonna try out those methods, we'll see how it works out. The hand pumping up and down fully gave me some return but not enough and it went away.
Thanks again, with some luck it might be running today!