Truck wont start after clutch job, need help on where to start

[ComatoseLlama]

Hello,

I just swapped in a LUK repset, everything went well except my clutch slave broke, but I should probably replace that anyway. But that's not my issue

During the process I messed up these two wires (one side goes to a connection on the turbo manifold, and one side goes into the cab. They seemed to be soldered to the posts, and at one point the connections on the relay sparked. Now the glow plug light doesn't come on.

You can see in this first pic the back wire is still attached

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Here is after i broke off the back one as well because im not too bright

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The truck turns over just fine and produces a bad smelling white smoke. Some posts say this means I'm getting fuel.

Is this a glow plug issue?

Not sure where to start on getting it fired up, or how to repair these wires. Truck ran like a top previously.
Batteries and starter are both mint condition.

Thanks,

CL

 

[chillman88]

I personally would go buy a new relay because they're cheap. Then crimp some new ends on those wires and hook it up to the new relay. If they were soldered someone hacked something anyway.

You're correct from what you've read. You're still getting fuel but your glow plugs are inoperative with that relay disconnected.

Make sure you unhook the batteries before messing with it for safety.

Good luck!

 

[ComatoseLlama]

I personally would go buy a new relay because they're cheap. Then crimp some new ends on those wires and hook it up to the new relay. If they were soldered someone hacked something anyway.

You're correct from what you've read. You're still getting fuel but your glow plugs are inoperative with that relay disconnected.

Make sure you unhook the batteries before messing with it for safety.

Good luck!

Is there a way to hot-wire my glow plugs straight off the battery to see if she’ll start?

 

[79jasper]

What you are holding is a nylon/plastic line that goes to a boost gauge. It melted to the relay. Definitely not a wire.

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[ComatoseLlama]

What you are holding is a nylon/plastic line that goes to a boost gauge. It melted to the relay. Definitely not a wire.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

That’s what i thought, but previously my boost gauge worked and I assume the wires were the same

should I just swap my glow plug relay and hope that works? Do they sell covers so it doesn’t get fried again ?

 

[chillman88]

Yeah I couldn't tell what it was but that makes sense.

As far as glow plugs go, see if the terminal with the two yellow wires has power, should be directly from the battery. If it does you might be able to jump the glow plugs, if not that's your problem. Start there.

 

[ComatoseLlama]

So after sitting overnight the glow plugs have came back to life, and the truck is back to normal. Weird stuff.

thanks for the help!

any tips on bleeding my slave cylinder? It doesn’t want to cooperate

 

[nelstomlinson]

Odds are good that your relay is still fine, but the electronics it sits upon might be damaged.

Start by measuring voltage at the relay where the two big yellow wires land from the battery. You should see battery voltage there. No volts means you have a broken or melted wire between there and the battery.

You should see about a 12V difference between the two big terminals, I believe. The glow plugs are a low-impedance path to ground, so the other big terminal should be right about at ground potential.

Next, jumpering from the big terminal with two wires and battery voltage to one of those two little terminals on top of the relay should power the relay and send power to the glow plugs. ***This one I'm not sure of, somebody else can probably confirm or deny this****

If you can get the relay to power the glow plugs by jumpering power to one of the little terminals, just put a switch in the cab to control your glow plugs by hand.

When I test new Motorcraft glowplugs after installation, they usually show about 1 Ohm to ground, or less.

 

[79jasper]

So after sitting overnight the glow plugs have came back to life, and the truck is back to normal. Weird stuff.

thanks for the help!

any tips on bleeding my slave cylinder? It doesn’t want to cooperate

Cycle it by hand. Some have luck by pumping the pedal with it running. The vibration seems to help.

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[ComatoseLlama]

Cycle it by hand. Some have luck by pumping the pedal with it running. The vibration seems to help.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I filled the slave as the manual says, and gravity dropped the line. When I press on the rod backwards and open the bleeder fluid comes out.

I just drove the truck around without the clutch, and it didn’t firm it up. Do I need to bleed more?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yes. From my experience, the slave cylinder is a huge PITA to bleed. I haven't had any better luck with releasing fluid (like bleeding brakes) than just pumping the clutch pedal. I've pumped until both legs and my right arm are completely worn out before the job is even at the acceptable level. Not done, just acceptable. That's why when I have to replace either the master or the slave cylinder, I'm, going to spend the extra money and buy the complete set, pre-bled.

 

[ComatoseLlama]

Yes. From my experience, the slave cylinder is a huge PITA to bleed. I haven't had any better luck with releasing fluid (like bleeding brakes) than just pumping the clutch pedal. I've pumped until both legs and my right arm are completely worn out before the job is even at the acceptable level. Not done, just acceptable. That's why when I have to replace either the master or the slave cylinder, I'm, going to spend the extra money and buy the complete set, pre-bled.

Damn.

So my best bet is to just pump and pump while the engine runs? The pedal doesn’t come back up in the slightest when released

Opening the bleeder valve isn’t necessarily going to fix my issue?

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Lots of horror stories on bleeding hydraulic clutch on ZF5s, give this a complete read.

Good luck

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/tech-101-clutch-mc-slave-bleeding-procedure.62121/

 

[ComatoseLlama]

Lots of horror stories on bleeding hydraulic clutch on ZF5s, give this a complete read.

Good luck

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/tech-101-clutch-mc-slave-bleeding-procedure.62121/

Thanks for the link!
Photobucket really ruined 90% of old forums posts, it makes me real sad

Planning on trying the method from the last post, hopefully it works

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The pedal doesn’t come back up in the slightest when released

This is when you have to manually pull the pedal back up. By hand or foot. It sucks, but it's part of the process.