I need some help here. And didn’t want to post in 911 cause truck still runs. But long story short I replaced the key cylinder in my 1990 f250 and put my collumn all back together and it was working great. All except my right rear blinker won’t work. The other 3 will. So after checking the bulb and my harness connections I decided something wasn’t right in the collumn. So I take the wheel off again and make sure everything is right and it seems it is. But when I go to start it with the key. Which it was doing just an hour before. It won’t start. It initiates the glow plugs and everything. Turns over by the key very strong just like it should but the motor won’t run. So I go outside and turn it over by the silinoid on the fender and it cranks right up like normal. So it will run when I start it outside the truck. But won’t start off the key. Any body know what the crap is going on? Don’t mind hillbillying it for a while. It don’t bother me. But need to get this fixed
Truck won’t start with key
- Thread starter Cheesy
- Start date
By chance is your column a tilt steering wheel column? There's a litlte pot metal piece that likes to break, so it'll still cycle the glow plugs and stuff, but won't actually crank over all the way.
Or it could be the ignition switch is out of adjustment on the push rod. Both could be culprits.
Or it could be the ignition switch is out of adjustment on the push rod. Both could be culprits.
I'm not sure if you're saying the engine turns over with the key or not (as in the starter motor turns, but the engine won't start) or if it only turns the starter motor when you manually jump the starter relay.
If the starter motor does nothing from the key, and it's an automatic, have you tried starting it in neutral? A bad neutral safety switch will make it do nothing when you try to crank it in P. Put it in N and try again. It also takes out the backup lights, if it's bad.
If the starter motor does nothing from the key, and it's an automatic, have you tried starting it in neutral? A bad neutral safety switch will make it do nothing when you try to crank it in P. Put it in N and try again. It also takes out the backup lights, if it's bad.
TNBrett
Full Access Member
I would think the ignition switch is a definite possibility. Perhaps it’s cutting power to “run” when in “start”. Try running a jumper straight to the fuel shut off solenoid on the IP and then try starting with the key.
Yep, could be. They're pretty cheap new ($20) so it must be something that is a common failure point.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
I'm with those guys. To eliminate the possibility of the tilt steering thing, pull the cover off the column and use needle nose pliers to push the rod down and start the truck. I had to do that for a while before I replaced my tilt steering thing that Nero mentioned.
You can kind of tell when that breaks, the ignition feels a bit floppy and the starter won't engage at all, even in neutral. That happened in my F250 not long after I got it.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
That piece is why I use a push button for starting my trucks. No turning the key to start, no piece breaking.
Being as it is cranking with the key, but won't start, but you can jump the starter, makes me think the ignition linkage is out of adjustment. Or the ignition switch has a dead spot on it. Doesn't sound like the classic broken U piece.
I’ll try to play with it and adjust it. When I do turn the key on what’s weird is I can go around to the ip and pull the plug on the silinoid and here it click. So it’s turning over and I can here it click and open up to let fuel through. So what else could be keeping it from running? Nothing is broke within the collumn.
TNBrett
Full Access Member
Try like I said and hot wire the Solenoid on the IP, then try cranking with the key. I think you have a dead spot in the ignition switch.
Your problem sort of reminds me of an old gasser when the coil resistor would burn out. You could get spark when cranking, but the engine would die as soon as you let off the key.
Your problem sort of reminds me of an old gasser when the coil resistor would burn out. You could get spark when cranking, but the engine would die as soon as you let off the key.
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