Truck stalled

catodd

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Well got a call from my son tonight telling me the truck died on him coming home, he said it would crank up and then stall. I get there and it takes a long crank to get her started....ran for a little bit and died on me, before it died the engine stumbled....gave it another long crank and she started up. Followed my son home and it was a good 10 miles back home and it ran fine....Any ideas what it could be? It was on the front tank and full of fuel.


Charlie
 

Wyreth

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Sounds like the filter is clogged or the lift pump has died on it. If it's been a while, change the filter.

If that doesn't fix it, then unhook the FSS on the IP. Then crank it for ten seconds with the schrader valve open. You should end up with about out a pint of fuel.

Also check for air intrusion.
 

catodd

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I changed the filter a couple of weeks ago while i replaced the o-ring on the fuel heater....the truck would crank and run then die after about 20 seconds. I thought fixing the leak on the fuel heater would cure my truck dying problem, but i believe it has stumbled and died a couple of times after fixing the leak. the last time i replaced the fuel pump was about a year ago. I do have a Carrier electric pump in my hands ready to install.
 

Kalashnikov

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I would try the filter again. They can clog up quickly if the fuel i dirty. No other leaks anywhere? How many miles on the IP and injectors?
 

catodd

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I would try the filter again. They can clog up quickly if the fuel i dirty. No other leaks anywhere? How many miles on the IP and injectors?

Don't see any other leaks...nothing wet. I bought the truck Dec 09' and it now has 185,000 miles. I think the IP is original, the name plate on the pump says Stanadyne...would it say rebuilt otherwise? Funny thing is, the truck doesn't die every time you crank/drive.
 

Kalashnikov

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Definitely need new IP and injectors. I picked up a 93 turbo with 189xxx miles on what I believe is the original pump and G codes. It was running fine then missfired for a few miles and then died and wouldn't start due to the IP and/or injectors.
 

catodd

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Well here's an update to this thread....it's been over a month now and truck has not stalled again. I have been filling front tank up whenever i get about 170 miles on it. Guess i need to drop the tanks or pull the bed and fix the broken fuel pickups.
 

Wyreth

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If you have a second person to help you lift the bed up, then defiantly pull the bed. It's not difficult.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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i've never done either on these trucks so i don't know for sure but from the little i have looked at it, dropping tanks doesn't look like it would be all bad.
 

Wyreth

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Depends on how close to empty you can siphon them, what kind of jacks you have available, and how strong you are. The bed isn't heavy, it's only like 8 bolts, and the taillight wiring. It's just way to awkward for one person to lift off.
 

icanfixall

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Removing the bed has a little more than the wires and 8 bolts. The fuel fill necks needs to be unscrewd from the bed but thats about all you need to do for bed removel. Dropping the front tank is not necessary because you can reach the sender pickup from under the truck. Dropping the rear tank needs much more work. The feed and return lines will need to be cut loose from the frame cross member near the differancial. Otherwise when you try to drop the tank there will not be enough slack or room to reach back in to remove the fuel lines from the sender. Another item overlooked when dropping a tank... They always have fuel still in them. Now there is no way on planet earth to keep that fuel from sloshing around and causing all kinds of balance issues. I have dropped both of my tanks and this is a little known fact. After dropping the front tank and then figureing out I didn't have to was an awakeing. That tank had about 8 gallons in it and boy was it moving around on me under there... We live and learn..
 

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