Tools needed?

snicklas

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Quick question.......

The 88 threw its belts the morning. Unfortunately it was at the end of the trip to work instead of in the driveway. Have the belts but need to grab tools on the way to the truck. What do I need? Figured pack up my socket set and gear wrench set, and grab a pry bar. Don’t need to take any off, just install the new ones. Anything else that I didn’t think of? If it would have waited, it would be at home and I’d have all my tools.......

Also, to verify order.

From closest to the block,

Alternator, waterpump, crank
A/C, waterpump, crank
P/S, waterpump, crank
Alternator, Vacuum Pump

Get them back on and on to the thing........
 

icanfixall

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The power steering bracket DOES have a square hex cut into it for adjusting the belt.Some may or may not know of this interesting design. This was just mentioned in a post above me to so others know.Do you know what belt let go and caused all the others to fail?
 

chillman88

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If I recall correctly, 1/2", 9/16" and 5/8" are the sizes you'll need. I keep a couple offset wrenches the right sizes in the truck. They aren't as handy as a ratchet, but they beat walking. Other than that as mentioned an adjustable wrench for the alternator and a 1/2 drive breaker bar for the ps pump should be all you "need".

I think on mine the half inch head bolts are for the vacuum pump belt, but they aren't factory bolts on mine either.
 

Macrobb

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Factory vacuum pump bolrs are 10mm
Another win for serp. One socket and ratchet, or a wrench. Lol

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except that when a serp belt goes, it's probably "something else" that broke it(idler, vacuum pump siezing, alternator siezing).. and you can't just add a single belt and keep driving.
 

chillman88

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Another win for serp. One socket and ratchet, or a wrench. Lol

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except that when a serp belt goes, it's probably "something else" that broke it(idler, vacuum pump siezing, alternator siezing).. and you can't just add a single belt and keep driving.

I drove all the way to work with no vacuum pump or alternator when my belt blew apart. I was pretty glad I had my V belts!
 

Golden Helmet

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The power steering bracket DOES have a square hex cut into it for adjusting the belt.Some may or may not know of this interesting design. This was just mentioned in a post above me to so others know.
I changed my belts out twice before someone pointed that hole out to me, it was a complete pain in the rear to do until I learned that (I once put tension on the PS belt by hand, because I didn't know). Now, with a 1/2" breaker bar for the PS pump and a pry bar for the alternator (I did that by hand too), the hardest part is just getting the belts past the fan :D

I think everyone else already got the tool list down correctly. I forget if there are 2 different sized bolts or 3, but those + ratchet + pry bar for alternator + breaker for for the PS bracket = done. I keep all this behind the seat, I'm used to the alternator belt going MIA every 5k miles :p
 

snicklas

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Thanks fellas!!!!!!

I went a bit overkill, but I have a Craftsman tool set:

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That I keep all the tools in, instead of the bigger chest in the garage. I also have a 2 gallon bucket with various tools in (not uncommon to have to go somewhere and fix something) and a big set of Gear Wrenches:

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I had planned on taking both of those and a work light. (If you have the RIDGID 18v tools, this is worth it's weight in gold!!!!!)

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I hadn't thought about the breaker bar until someone on here mentioned it.

What I used was:

3/8 Drive ratchet
10, 13, 14, 15 16 mm sockets (I think, just grabbed till I found one that fit)
3" and 6" 3/8 extension
8mm gear wrench
1/2 drive breaker bar
Large Crescent Wrench

1/2 drive breaker bar for the A/C Compressor and Power Steering Pump
Crescent Wrench on the Alternator
3/8 ratchet and extension for the Vacuum Pump

Took less than 30 minutes from hood up to tools back in the trunk.

Also, on dealing with both, I will HAPPILY keep my V-Belts. If the Power Steering Belt had thrown clear when it went, it would have been driven home with Armstrong Steering and fixed here.
 

icanfixall

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Just to add a interesting note about driving home or to safety with no alternator. Our engines being a compression ignition means we do not need an electrical source to fire the diesel. As long as you don't try shutting down and restarting the engine too many times we can just about drive indefinitely...Mel told us many years back as long as we have around 6 or 7 volts the fuel shutoff solenoid will function and stay open in the top of the injection pump. Otherwise if we could change that solenoid to a manual shutoff valve we could drive till we ran out of fuel. Also if we have a standard trans along with this manual fuel shutoff valve and we "park on a hill"..We can bump start or roll till enough speed is made to bump start.... Diesels..The true apocalypses rig..
 

nostrokes

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Just to add a interesting note about driving home or to safety with no alternator. Our engines being a compression ignition means we do not need an electrical source to fire the diesel. As long as you don't try shutting down and restarting the engine too many times we can just about drive indefinitely...Mel told us many years back as long as we have around 6 or 7 volts the fuel shutoff solenoid will function and stay open in the top of the injection pump. Otherwise if we could change that solenoid to a manual shutoff valve we could drive till we ran out of fuel. Also if we have a standard trans along with this manual fuel shutoff valve and we "park on a hill"..We can bump start or roll till enough speed is made to bump start.... Diesels..The true apocalypses rig..


That's one thing among several I love about these engines. Almost zero electronics, parts are relatively inexpensive and they last forever with proper maintenance.... Hence the "nostrokes" user name. Hahahahaha
 

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