lookin killer!
Tin bashing
- Thread starter david85
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david85
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UPS dropped off some goodies today.
After reading up on Frost King here and on other forums, I bought 6 rolls of the stuff and plan to go nuts with it. Right now the firewall is covered in one layer of frost king, plus an extra layer directly behind the engine. On top of that I have reflex thermal barrier. I also mounted the steering column, brakes, shift linkage and throttle cable. Wiring harness should be fun.
Oh, and the first interior photo shows exactly how far a single roll will get you.
After reading up on Frost King here and on other forums, I bought 6 rolls of the stuff and plan to go nuts with it. Right now the firewall is covered in one layer of frost king, plus an extra layer directly behind the engine. On top of that I have reflex thermal barrier. I also mounted the steering column, brakes, shift linkage and throttle cable. Wiring harness should be fun.
Oh, and the first interior photo shows exactly how far a single roll will get you.
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david85
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Still have nearly two rolls left after all this. Think I'll save it for the doors. Might put another couple patches on the ceiling too.
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david85
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I ordered mine online from Lowes (free shipping from the big city). The local Home Depot didn't have it, but some do. I hear folks down south can get it for as little as $20/roll. You can buy a lot for the cost of FatMat or Dynamat. Its also a high density soft foam so no risk of tar dripping or stinking up the interior. It can also be removed fairly easily without making a big mess.
I'll admit this discussion here swayed me a little:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/948966-dynamat-vs-frost-king.html
Seems its a common mod for the Vette Community since some (all?) don't come from factory with insulation.
Word over there; dynamat is better for someone running big subs while FK is good for road and drivetrain noise. Not a fan of subs, but would like to kill the noise at freeway speed so hopefully it will work ok.
I'll admit this discussion here swayed me a little:
http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-general/948966-dynamat-vs-frost-king.html
Seems its a common mod for the Vette Community since some (all?) don't come from factory with insulation.
Word over there; dynamat is better for someone running big subs while FK is good for road and drivetrain noise. Not a fan of subs, but would like to kill the noise at freeway speed so hopefully it will work ok.
That was a really good read once you get through the ******* contest. Thanks! I'm going to give the frost king I shot I think. I've already added mass to the floor with spray on bedliner, so if the product is a little lighter, I don't see that as a terrible thing.
david85
Full Access Member
Yeah I got a chuckle out of it. Still some good info though. That theme got repeated on other forums; some guys tried it and liked it, while others who either used, or sold the high end car audio stuff said it was junk. Funny thing is, if you go to the American Home Depot website and look up the frost king product there, many reviews are of people who tried it in their car projects...and liked it.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Self-Stick-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603
http://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Self-Stick-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603
david85
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Well, I got home from BCIT last week and have been going flat out on the truck. I spread the harness out on the concrete pad and started remembering where everything went. 2 days later, it fired up
.
Dash is in, 90% of the wiring harness is in and hooked up.
Door shells are installed and adjusted. The new weather seals are quite stiff but if it kills the wind noise, I don't care. They will probably settle on their own after a few months of the doors being closed tight.
Now comes the finicky part of transferring the hardware over. I chose to fit them as empty shells because the doors weight about half as much and are way easier to handle that way. Too much work went into that paint to risk dropping it on the concrete.
.Dash is in, 90% of the wiring harness is in and hooked up.
Door shells are installed and adjusted. The new weather seals are quite stiff but if it kills the wind noise, I don't care. They will probably settle on their own after a few months of the doors being closed tight.
Now comes the finicky part of transferring the hardware over. I chose to fit them as empty shells because the doors weight about half as much and are way easier to handle that way. Too much work went into that paint to risk dropping it on the concrete.
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david85
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I shot a coat of undercoating inside the door shells and the extended cab. It might help with sound deadening, but The main purpose is to prevent any sitting water from doing damage. The drains are all clear but still, the glass weather stripping is never perfect and some water always gets in. I might decide to try sticking some frost king on there after its cured but I have no idea how well it will adhere.
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Welcome back.
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david85
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Almost done with the doors. Just need to test the speakers and I can close up the panels. The AC delco power window motor seems to work well. Rockauto saves the day again.
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david85
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This took about 3 days to get things installed and adjusted as shown. Still some more tweaking needed but its looking like a truck again.
Spend most of today chasing a gremlin in the fuel gauge wiring. Still not sure if I got him but the gauge seems to read now.
Spend most of today chasing a gremlin in the fuel gauge wiring. Still not sure if I got him but the gauge seems to read now.
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david85
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Back when I started all this, my plan was to simply oil up the frame and call it good. Well, since I pulled both tanks and everything was easy to get at...well... you know...
Thought about using POR15 but ended up going with a product call Corroseal. Much lower cost and its a one stage process. Reading up on POR15, it seems many get good results with sandblasting or other fairly involving prep. Normally I wouldn't trust an easy fix like this, but my Dad used it on some tractor rims many years ago. Solid layer of hard crusty rust but darned if it didn't hold all this time. He ended up topcoating with some cheap industrial enamel but still no rust bled through after all this time.
I still did some prep work using a wet sandblasting attachment on the pressure washer, lots of wire-wheeling and good of fashioned bashing to get the thicker crust out. The real challenge was scraping the old undercoating off. Whatever the PO had put on, it was good quality stuff.
I was also a little concerned with the cross member that supports the rear of the mid-ship tank. Rust flakes were collecting between the joints and I wanted to make sure it wasn't eating into the main C-channel. Turns out it wasn't but I ended up replacing the cross member with the one from the donor truck since it was in better shape.
Long story short, I blasted/prepped, dosed the rust (turns black in a few minutes), then inspected and retouched the rust treatment the next day. After that, I applied a rubberized undercoating to everything rear of the cab. I've used similar undercoating in the past and had good results so I hope this holds. Supposedly it has cellulose fibers to prevent cracking over time.
Next up, fuel tanks from the donor truck will be going in. They have minor surface rust in a few spots but nothing major. Both will get fully undercoated before getting strapped back in.
Oh and the pictures don't really do justice to how messy a job this is...yuck!
Thought about using POR15 but ended up going with a product call Corroseal. Much lower cost and its a one stage process. Reading up on POR15, it seems many get good results with sandblasting or other fairly involving prep. Normally I wouldn't trust an easy fix like this, but my Dad used it on some tractor rims many years ago. Solid layer of hard crusty rust but darned if it didn't hold all this time. He ended up topcoating with some cheap industrial enamel but still no rust bled through after all this time.
I still did some prep work using a wet sandblasting attachment on the pressure washer, lots of wire-wheeling and good of fashioned bashing to get the thicker crust out. The real challenge was scraping the old undercoating off. Whatever the PO had put on, it was good quality stuff.
I was also a little concerned with the cross member that supports the rear of the mid-ship tank. Rust flakes were collecting between the joints and I wanted to make sure it wasn't eating into the main C-channel. Turns out it wasn't but I ended up replacing the cross member with the one from the donor truck since it was in better shape.
Long story short, I blasted/prepped, dosed the rust (turns black in a few minutes), then inspected and retouched the rust treatment the next day. After that, I applied a rubberized undercoating to everything rear of the cab. I've used similar undercoating in the past and had good results so I hope this holds. Supposedly it has cellulose fibers to prevent cracking over time.
Next up, fuel tanks from the donor truck will be going in. They have minor surface rust in a few spots but nothing major. Both will get fully undercoated before getting strapped back in.
Oh and the pictures don't really do justice to how messy a job this is...yuck!
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