Timing. What I did. And a question.

Selahdoor

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I recently replaced the injectors. Also did the new fuel filter, filled with ATF thing.

Now, right off the bat, it ran smoother. I think the old injectors were badly out of time with each other. (Different pop values.)

But it smokes like a banshee, on startup. White smoke. Keeps smoking for a while. Until it is good and warmed up. (Before changing the injectors, there was only a brief puff of white smoke on startup. And it went away very quickly. Did not last more than a couple of seconds at most. Now it goes for a couple minutes at least.)

I can only get black smoke if I try really hard, on the road. And it doesn't last, even if I keep my foot in it.

Plus, after I drove it to town, (roughly a 40 mile round trip.), it was running really rough. It has continued to do that.

Figured the timing was too slow. This is the way it was when I first brought it home and got it started after months of trying. Turning the timing up by about two and a half dime thicknesses was what cured that for a couple years... So, I decided to turn it up again.

Here is the original way it looked when I started. When I turned it up back then, I painted the area white, then made a black mark across it, to have a starting mark. This is what it looked like when I was finished then...
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I made a new mark, just so I would have no question.
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And this is what it looks like now that I have set it up by one dime's thickness again. Ok, maybe it isn't quite a dime's thickness. I think I'll have to loosen the fuel lines, if I want to move it any further.
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Ok, now, here's the thing...

The only change is that the smoke on startup has turned darker. More grey now. Not just white. But once warmed up it did run smoother than it has been.

So I have no idea whether it is too retarded, or too advanced. I didn't have the time today, to be turning back the other way, to find out.

Ok, so here's the thing.

I REALLY need to get this timed right.

I don't have the equipment. I want to get the equipment.

I know some of you have the right stuff, and can point me in the right direction to get the right stuff. I don't want cheap crap that will give me more headaches. But I can't afford the expensive stuff either.

What have you gotten, that is fairly inexpensive, but actually WORKS, and is reliable??? And where? And how much?
 

IDIBRONCO

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The best deals that I've seen is the DTI meters on Ebay that are military surplus.
 

Big Bart

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Seledoor,

You not supposed to break the truck, your supposed to fix the truck!:cool:

Only the old Snap On st 480’s where built well. Everything else since is made of plastic and light weight cables. So you won’t be impressed by any of the meters but if you are careful they will last.

Here is what many have bought, they are more full featured than a Ferret or Bluepoint.


Some members said they put in a offer of $180 and it was accepted. DTI sells these on the site for $400 so it’s a deal even at $225.

Read the manual, you can kill the damper probe if the meter is not powered prior to plugging in the probe.

Let us know when you get it, we can share more about how to use it.
 

Brian VT

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I recently got mine from this guy for like $175.
I just went to my Ebay account to give you the link and found that he's selling even cheaper.

 

Selahdoor

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Ok, what do I need besides these kits?

I need to know EVERYTHING I am going to need to get, aside from buying one of these kits.
 

Clb

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First outta the gate
Who's injectors?
How old is the ip?
how does 2 1\2 dimes tell you anything?
yes a meter is needed.
Sux these are now dinosaurs and the shops cannot fix em!
Sux more that gary had to quit the rental deal cus of damage to his equipment!
look up wet sumping.

new injectors from a reputable source won't cause those issues.
Time it, verify the ip aint toast, check delivery psi, check returns, look for air intrusion, check you don't have 2 coppers in the same hole.
good luck.
 

Clb

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I recently got mine from this guy for like $175.
I just went to my Ebay account to give you the link and found that he's selling even cheaper.

Sheet if this is the real deal, EVERYONE should have one (perfect world ****) I need to see what I have the new ?j3300A? That gary was renting.
You need a mag probe, goes on harmonic balancer, pulse clamp, goes on #1 injector line meter and instructions.
Then I just posted this month a primer on using a meter somewhere, cribs wedge of wood for throttle lever.
Hit the stickie towcat wrote...
 

Selahdoor

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Got the injectors from Russ.

IP came with the truck. No idea if it has been replaced before or not.

2 and a half dimes thickness, is what cured it the first time, a couple years ago. One more dime thickness hasn't seemed to do the trick. Ergo, I am looking in to getting the equipment to time this thing, myself.

I'll look up wet sumping.

I'll be checking over all the rest. Already know I don't have two coppers in any hole. Or any holes with no copper. I was very careful of that.
 

Big Bart

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Ok, what do I need besides these kits?

I need to know EVERYTHING I am going to need to get, aside from buying one of these kits.
Selahdoor,

The one I noted has the injector line clamp and timing probe. You can time with just those two items.

You will need the following
1) Tools to loosen the injector pump.(You seem to have those.)
2) A 5/16 drill bit. Used by hand to clean out the hole by the damper.
3) A stack of 4 business cards.
4) A flat file to perhaps narrow the damper probe tip.
5) A small wire brush to clean the timing mark out on the damper.
6) A paint pen to mark the timing mark on the damper.

If you want the system to be easier to use order from DTI their timing light for $90. Not necessary but helpful.
 

Selahdoor

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You need a mag probe, goes on harmonic balancer, pulse clamp, goes on #1 injector line meter and instructions.
Then I just posted this month a primer on using a meter somewhere, cribs wedge of wood for throttle lever.
Hit the stickie towcat wrote...
So, if I buy the above kit, I still need to buy a mag probe, and a pulse clamp?

And I believe I read somewhere that a timing light is also needed? Any particular kind? Any BEST kind?

I'll look for the stickie.
 

Big Bart

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So, if I buy the above kit, I still need to buy a mag probe, and a pulse clamp?

And I believe I read somewhere that a timing light is also needed? Any particular kind? Any BEST kind?

I'll look for the stickie.
That is not what I said.

I said the link I gave is a set with the meter, damper probe and injector line piezo clamp and cable. It will time your truck with just those three pieces. However some have found the damper probes needed to be filed down a little (Too fat for the timing hole On the engine. Message TNBrett he has a trick to make them fit.) and are finicky (Have to find the sweet spot of how close to the damper before it will trigger off the timing mark.) and thus can be a little challenging to use. But you will figure it out.

You will need to ask BrianVT if the seller offering him the kit he linked to, and bought from, if it includes all 3 pieces.

If you buy this timing light that is made just for that meter (Not their generic one for gassers.), you do not need to use the damper probe. You will use the strobe of this timing light to determine where your timing is. This is a optional purchase, but eliminates having to keep moving the damper probe up and down till it gets a reading. I will repeat, this is optional, not required. I believe it makes timing our trucks easier. IDIBronco really likes his, I plan to buy one myself.

Timing / Strobe Light for Tach-n-Time Model 3300S (Light only) $80.00​

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Click to see larger image

Product Overview​

For Tach-n-Time timing unit, model 3300S.

Features​

  • Bright bulb provides concentrated light for high visibility of timing mark

MODEL
DESCRIPTION
PRICE
28066
Timing / Strobe Light for Tach-n-Time Model 3300S (Light only)
$80.00
in your cart

 

Brian VT

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Selahdoor

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That is not what I said.

I said the link I gave is a set with the meter, damper probe and injector line piezo clamp and cable. It will time your truck with just those three pieces. However some have found the damper probes needed to be filed down a little (Too fat for the timing hole On the engine. Message TNBrett he has a trick to make them fit.) and are finicky (Have to find the sweet spot of how close to the damper before it will trigger off the timing mark.) and thus can be a little challenging to use. But you will figure it out.

You will need to ask BrianVT if the seller offering him the kit he linked to, and bought from, if it includes all 3 pieces.

If you buy this timing light that is made just for that meter (Not their generic one for gassers.), you do not need to use the damper probe. You will use the strobe of this timing light to determine where your timing is. This is a optional purchase, but eliminates having to keep moving the damper probe up and down till it gets a reading. I will repeat, this is optional, not required. I believe it makes timing our trucks easier. IDIBronco really likes his, I plan to buy one myself.

Timing / Strobe Light for Tach-n-Time Model 3300S (Light only) $80.00​

You must be registered for see images

Click to see larger image

Product Overview​

For Tach-n-Time timing unit, model 3300S.

Features​

  • Bright bulb provides concentrated light for high visibility of timing mark

MODEL
DESCRIPTION
PRICE
28066
Timing / Strobe Light for Tach-n-Time Model 3300S (Light only)
$80.00
in your cart

I wasn't responding to you with that post. I was responding to CLB. You posted while I was responding to him.

Thank you for your response. I THOUGHT those would be included in the kit. CLB's post had me confused, and that's why I asked.

So it looks like it is as I suspected. Buy the kit and the timing light and I should have everything I need. And I like the idea of using the timing light instead of kludging around with the probe.

Ok. Now to see if I can find the fundage. :)
 

Clb

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Sorry bud!
Sounds like it's sorted...
To space the mag probe on\off the balancer common practice is 3 business cards in between balancer and probe.
To clean the hole a fresh ?5\16? Inch twist drill cleans the tin holder well(measure the probe FIRST!)
I can verify later...
 
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