Timing question again

[82fordtruck]

I have been noticing something in the morning, and with the gooseneck on, it was very obvious this morning. I fixed my high idle switch a few months ago. In the morning, driving down the highway, I can feel a loss of power when it shuts off. I always dismissed it as the high idle switch "helping" me push the pedal down and I just needed more pedal after it shut off.

This morning, I though it shut down as I was going up a hill. It's pretty noticable. I definitely was accelerating, not decelerating, and it was a obvious loss of power. There is no way this thing was against the high idle solenoid. Is this normal when the timing turns off, or is my timing wrong?

I had it set a little over a year ago, but was suspicious that he didn't set it right. I thought he had a pulse timing meter and he said he set it for 3 degrees, which is the reccomended setting. This is a big diesel shop by the way. They rebuild a lot of IP's, so I dismissed it as me being wrong.

I get about 13 - 14 mpg, and almost never go over 55 mph. 95% of my driving is on the highway at 55, sometimes 45 or so, depending on who I am following. I'm never in too much of a hurry, and never pass anyone. I came in at 35 this morning. My mileage always seemed too low to me.

 

[OkieGringo]

Well, I don't really know where that 3 degrees comes from. AFAIN, timing is supposed to be checked/set so that it is 8.5 deg BTDC @ 2000 rpm. Have the guy do it again or go somewhere they know about these little engines. On Sunday I was doing 70 mph from Dallas back here to NE Okla, and return line was dumping into the rear tank and I still got 13 mpg. OkieGringo

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

Sounds to me like you advance timing might be having issues. I know when my advance timing kicks off if I am accelering my truck feels like it's lost some power......... Jim

 

[OkieGringo]

Try checking the wire connection order to the IP. It is VERY important that the Cold Engine Switch is working correctly and that the plastic connector actually connects the terminals inside it. It is common for the plastic connector to seem to be connected but the metal connectors inside are not really touching the prongs of the switch. Here is my bleep on it. To check the connections to the IP, here's what you need to do. Turn on key to 'run' position. Check the main wire that comes from the loom to the IP (injection pump), does it have juice. The wire runs to the FSS (fuel shutoff switch) connector first, then to one side of the Cold Engine Switch(two-prong sensor, located in hole behind the upper radiator hose connection). When the engine is cold 'juice' will pass thru the sensor, if the sensor is good, and go to either the FIS (fast idle solenoid) or the CTA (cold timing advance), then to the other. If the engine is cold and sensor is good it will be 'closed' and allow 'juice' to get to the FIS plunger which holds the idle speed up. If FIS plunger is working, but not pushing up far enough, use a 1/4" wrench to turn/extend it until the idle speed is ~1000 rpm. The CTA (cold timing advance) near the spider/distribution end of the IP 'advances the timing' to make engine run smoother/run cleaner/less smoke. The Cold Engine Switch opens/shuts off the electricity to the FIS and CTA after engine reaches 112 degrees, and engine speed/rpm will/should drop to ~650 rpm. If these three items are working correctly, when you go to start engine, hold the throttle pedal at least 1/2 way to floor to allow the FIS plunger to 'set' itself. Use a test light to check for electricity/juice at each of the solenoids, FSS, FIS and CTA. Let me know if this helps. Good luck, OkieGringo

 

[82fordtruck]

no, I know these items are working fine. The timing advance is definitely working, and the high idle is as well.

The only complaint is the same observation Jim made. Is that normal? It seems that the timing should be set to where it feels more powerful, too advanced or retarded will be less efficient and less powerful. Am I right here?

 

[aaklingler]

The only complaint is the same observation Jim made. Is that normal? It seems that the timing should be set to where it feels more powerful, too advanced or retarded will be less efficient and less powerful. Am I right here?

I don't know if it's normal or not i try not to run it to hard until the fast idle and timing advance kick off. What your talking about is the the timing advance turning off. Does your truck rattle pretty hard at idle? I'm not sure about your last statement, if we run to much advance the pressure gets too high in the cylinders.

 

[LUCKY_LARUE60]

Running advanced timing is not good on a diesel for a long time as you are injecting the fuel too soon and the fuel will ignite too soon, but the advanced timimg is for starting and I belive quicker warmups, now don't hold my feet to the fire on that. I too do not run the truck too hard untill the advance kicks off and you can tell when the volt meter jumps pretty good one time after you start to drive it............... Jim

 

[82fordtruck]

I don't know if it's normal or not i try not to run it to hard until the fast idle and timing advance kick off. What your talking about is the the timing advance turning off. Does your truck rattle pretty hard at idle? I'm not sure about your last statement, if we run to much advance the pressure gets too high in the cylinders.

I don't know about hard. It idles higher, and I have not hit the gas pedal to see if the advance is working, and it definitely is.

In my last statement, I was wondering if my timing was retarded, and the advance put it back where it should be, or close to it. I thought this would explain that little stumble, and the poor mileage. I feel like I should get 17.

 

[Agnem]

I don't know about hard. It idles higher, and I have not hit the gas pedal to see if the advance is working, and it definitely is.

In my last statement, I was wondering if my timing was retarded, and the advance put it back where it should be, or close to it. I thought this would explain that little stumble, and the poor mileage. I feel like I should get 17.

My inclination is to agree with your assesment. What is the distance between your static timing marks?

 

[82fordtruck]

Mel -

I've never seen any. The engine is a rebuilt Jasper, and I suppose they filed it off and didn't replace it.

I don't even know who to take it to if that shop didn't set it right. They're the only ones around. The ford dealer's diesel mechanic is an idiot. He told me SCA's are unnecessary and my DMF noise was an exhaust rattle. Can anyone reccomend a shop in my area? Or, even better, are there any members with one near me?