freebird01
Post Turtle!
yea i got a few other things in the works too.... time is in short supply right now on my end...
Timing Meter Rental
- Thread starter icanfixall
- Start date
10-4 on that. Thanks again for putting this stuff out there for us. Otherwise, we'd be up a creek without a firewall kit or a IP wrench.
Heath
Heath
troupp
Full Access Member
What is the timing meter waiting list like? I got my truck all back together and woud like to verify what I've got now.
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
X2, i better get on the list.. I think ill need to retime it after i put the new injectors in..
Gary, did you ever get your meter back from UPS or USPS or whoever lost it?
Heath
Heath
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Yes Heath .. The missing meter finally showed up with no explanation from the post office. Now the really unpleansant problem. Some members who will not be outed are holding on to the meters way too long. I really have not much to say about it either. I need to change how these meters are rentad out but I am going to ask the forum what they feel is the correct way to go about this in another new post.. To all those waiting I'm very sorry some have kept these meters way longer than is responsible.
ocnorb
IDIT
Gary,
I was under the impression that you were scrapping the whole program after you lost that meter. It pushed me to order the parts for mine.
It seems that for this to work out you would need it to turn around in a week or less. Most guys are going to have time to use it on the weekend, so maybe a penalty fee for every day past Monday that the unit doesn't ship??
I was under the impression that you were scrapping the whole program after you lost that meter. It pushed me to order the parts for mine.
It seems that for this to work out you would need it to turn around in a week or less. Most guys are going to have time to use it on the weekend, so maybe a penalty fee for every day past Monday that the unit doesn't ship??
That really sucks - I really want to be able to rent one when I go to replace my fuel system. I hope a bad apple or two doesn't ruin the program for everyone. I'm all for a security deposit - I don't want to see this die.
damac
Full Access Member
I got one, ran into a problem because the right port is gone from my truck and I didn't know it when I rented Then I got ill and haven't even thought about doing anything this week. Sorry about that, there was never any mention of a turnaround time so I would definately do that so people know.
I can move around now and can ship it back tomorrow, can you tell me how exactly we need to ship it? Like insurance, etc.?
Now as far as my problem I don't know what to do. I tried to jbweld a couple nuts that matched the id of the drill bit/probe and its held but I doubt that I got it on there perfect.
What I didn't get is the probe seems to fit my port on the left ok, perhaps because of years of grime, but it reads steady on the meter.
Shouldn't there be some figure for the meter to set it to so I could use that first port so the readings will be correct like 0 since that is tdc?
I have not actually tried my jbweld port yet, not sure if getting it a tick off will hurt my readings, etc. enough to worry about?
Would love some guidance on this one, I will get out there today thanks
Then I got ill and haven't even thought about doing anything this week. Sorry about that, there was never any mention of a turnaround time so I would definately do that so people know. I can move around now and can ship it back tomorrow, can you tell me how exactly we need to ship it? Like insurance, etc.?
Now as far as my problem I don't know what to do. I tried to jbweld a couple nuts that matched the id of the drill bit/probe and its held but I doubt that I got it on there perfect.
What I didn't get is the probe seems to fit my port on the left ok, perhaps because of years of grime, but it reads steady on the meter.
Shouldn't there be some figure for the meter to set it to so I could use that first port so the readings will be correct like 0 since that is tdc?
I have not actually tried my jbweld port yet, not sure if getting it a tick off will hurt my readings, etc. enough to worry about?
Would love some guidance on this one, I will get out there today thanks
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Damac.. Your not the problem members holding on to the meter. We have worked together attempting to solve your missing timing tab location. As for getting the fabrication JB weld parts close I'm thinking you will be fine with what you describe that you have done. The factory settings is 8.5 plus or minus 2 degrees.. Thats a 4 degree differance and really not what anyone here feels is "close enough". So if you are off a 64th or 32nd of an inch it will not change much if anything. Yes the timing location will be moved by that much but its not going to be an issue. Hope your able to time the engine. When you are ready to ship the meter please pm me as to what I need you to do with it... Thanks, Gary
Thats a 4 degree differance and really not what anyone here feels is "close enough". So if you are off a 64th or 32nd of an inch it will not change much if anything. Yes the timing location will be moved by that much but its not going to be an issue. Hope your able to time the engine. When you are ready to ship the meter please pm me as to what I need you to do with it... Thanks, Garydamac
Full Access Member
ok i just used that port and i put an extra ground to battery from the probes body.
i blocked the radiator and got the truck hot and came back and hooked it up with the advance disconnected it reads almost 10 at idle. then when i rev to 2000 it reads about 7.
would it be normal at this point to not smell diesel out the tailpipe after the first minute? the engine isn't that quiet and is noisier with advance on but its only 45 degrees out.
i dont know what a proper one sounds like in person so im afraid to advance more but my issue has been when driving around i am getting a steady stream of lighter color smoke before full throttle. the truck before i serviced it would only smoke a faint steady puff of black when towing our trailer up a hill. Nothing empty. Kind of funny messed up injectors and old pump.
if its at 7 and i wanted to shoot for 8.5 is this just a small nudge more advanced or any reference on how far to move it?
oh here is a link to a video of the truck running after warmed up, although i don't think videos convey the right noises on these motors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUz285sccFA&feature=channel_video_title
i blocked the radiator and got the truck hot and came back and hooked it up with the advance disconnected it reads almost 10 at idle. then when i rev to 2000 it reads about 7.
would it be normal at this point to not smell diesel out the tailpipe after the first minute? the engine isn't that quiet and is noisier with advance on but its only 45 degrees out.
i dont know what a proper one sounds like in person so im afraid to advance more but my issue has been when driving around i am getting a steady stream of lighter color smoke before full throttle. the truck before i serviced it would only smoke a faint steady puff of black when towing our trailer up a hill. Nothing empty. Kind of funny messed up injectors and old pump.
if its at 7 and i wanted to shoot for 8.5 is this just a small nudge more advanced or any reference on how far to move it?
oh here is a link to a video of the truck running after warmed up, although i don't think videos convey the right noises on these motors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUz285sccFA&feature=channel_video_title
Last edited:
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Moving the timing is your choice. As for doing this timing I may suggest removing the cold advance wire off the injection pump and the fast idle for the throttle linkage. Then you will get the timing done on a engine that isn't so hot you can't touch it. The engine does not need to be up to operating temps for timing. Just remove the wires and start it, then rev to 2000 rpm. You probably wont get exactly 2000 but anywhere close works. The amount you need to advance the timing for 1 or 2 degrees is the width of a dime. Now thats difficult to actually watch happen with the engine turned of of course. This is why I recommend a center punch mark in the pump yo gear cover joint where the two differant pieces touch. Then as you move the pump you will actually see the punch mark become two half circles. If you don't like how the engine runs its real easy to set it back to where it was. No guess work doing it that way. Hope this helps you along...
damac
Full Access Member
ok any idea how to describe to me what kind of noises i should be prepared for if its too advanced? it isn't alarming right now even in the cold just kind of different. in the past on its coldest start with the old injectors i have heard more of a hammering noise. Made me look twice but not near as bad as a missing injector.
On my little vw its easier to tell when the bad clacking starts as I can move the pump while its running and the pinging just doesn't sound right on it, telling you to back it off.
On my little vw its easier to tell when the bad clacking starts as I can move the pump while its running and the pinging just doesn't sound right on it, telling you to back it off.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
That engine souns is almost perfect. You can advance it more. About 2 degrees will really wake it up. It will sound more like a powerstroke running when your around 9 degrees advance. Even 8 will make it sound great. Remember these meters can be adjusting the timing to a 10th of a degree. Now thats really cutting the last tiny bit out of the engine by timing it that close. Running 8 to 9 degrees advance will give you the best hp and mileage. Your morning startuo cakle will sound like a psd but as soon as the fast advance and internal advance shuts down it quites down so much you think something has happened. It has happened.. Your about ready to add some right foot to the beast and crack a big smile.. Caution is important here. The smile is tuff to get rid of around those that just don't understand...
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