Timing Meter Rental

damac

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Ok I just went out and nudged it and it sounds different but I don't know what a powerstroke sounds like. I unhooked the advance/idle like you said and jumped right in and got a 9.5 reading right at the end near 2000 rpms.

Here is a video of me cold starting the truck and timing it after it sitting a few hours since the other video and doing the above.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8omn30pJwI&feature=youtube_gdata


Here is a video of the tailpipe taken right after the first video. The smoke pattern to my eye from the driver seat seemed less but i wasn't able to drive it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rQ51nb7U_s

Also I am freaked out Im going to break something :) All my glowplugs are good I don't want to burn them up. Also it doesn't seem the truck is turning over any harder so I'm not on the extreme end of advance right?
 

eatont9999

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ok any idea how to describe to me what kind of noises i should be prepared for if its too advanced? it isn't alarming right now even in the cold just kind of different. in the past on its coldest start with the old injectors i have heard more of a hammering noise. Made me look twice but not near as bad as a missing injector.

On my little vw its easier to tell when the bad clacking starts as I can move the pump while its running and the pinging just doesn't sound right on it, telling you to back it off.

I hope my PM was of some help to you. I went through similar issues but add on a bad injector or two and you can understand why I had such a heck of a time with my IP and injector replacement. From what I have learned, the inspection port is 20 degrees retarded of the timing probe hole. That is what I have been told and that is what I have seen on the meter when I connected it to the correct port. If you use the inspection port, compensate for the 20 degrees.
 

damac

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I hope my PM was of some help to you. I went through similar issues but add on a bad injector or two and you can understand why I had such a heck of a time with my IP and injector replacement. From what I have learned, the inspection port is 20 degrees retarded of the timing probe hole. That is what I have been told and that is what I have seen on the meter when I connected it to the correct port. If you use the inspection port, compensate for the 20 degrees.

I think the injector clamp thing was getting loose effecting something because it just plopped off? I guess I didn't snug it down good enough.

Anyways I cleaned the area again and reclamped and timed it again from my jbweld port and got 10.2 and this is with the same settings in the videos above?

Then I tried the other port and set the degrees to 0 and it was reading the same so maybe it is 20 degrees apart? This time it said 10.5 so maybe my make due port is pretty close?

So right now I am at the far end of advance. I expected it to be louder but I suppose it will be nasty on a cold morning on first start?

Does this gel with what people are hearing in the videos?

Basically I probably swung it more than a dimes width and its fine tuning time?

Another thing I am noticing that I have not before is that with the truck warmed up it seems to warming up sooner at the top of the radiator. And when I give it gas the motor doesn't just shift with the revs but it makes the whole truck shake so not smooth.
 

icanfixall

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That engine sounds great. Your idle is a little low but that sounds great. If anything the smoke looked slightly blue in the first part of the viedo but it cleared up and the revs sounded fine. No need to worry about hurting anything with what you have shown us. Just raise the idle rpm to around 650 to 750 and call it good... Now drive and enjoy the new power you have. Fuel mileage will go up too.... If you can stay out of the skinny peddle...:eek::angel::D Good job...:thumbsup:
 

eatont9999

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You are pretty dang close on the timing. You could leave it there or try for around 9 degrees but then again, you may not get it close. It sounds fine to me, so if I were you, I would leave it alone.

When the thermostat opens, the top of the radiator will heat up first as the hot coolant from the engine passes from top to bottom.

Keep an eye on your temp gauge. If when driving under normal conditions, you notice it running hotter than before, retard the timing a little.

You should make a video of this shaking you mention. Diesel engines have a little vibration to them but it should not be shaking. If you sit in the truck and you can see your stuff on the passenger seat shaking, you most likely have a problem. Let us know and we'll take it from there.
 

eatont9999

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You are pretty dang close on the timing. You could leave it there or try for around 9 degrees but then again, you may not get it close. It sounds fine to me, so if I were you, I would leave it alone.

When the thermostat opens, the top of the radiator will heat up first as the hot coolant from the engine passes from top to bottom.

Keep an eye on your temp gauge. If when driving under normal conditions, you notice it running hotter than before, retard the timing a little.

You should make a video of this shaking you mention. Diesel engines have a little vibration to them but it should not be shaking. If you sit in the truck and you can see your stuff on the passenger seat shaking, you most likely have a problem. Let us know and we'll take it from there.
 

Diesel JD

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Personally I'd shoot for 9.5-9.7, ut I doubt you'll break anything at 10.2 As you have observed the big port and the smaller port are 20* apart. The big hole is at 0* and the skinny port is at 20* ATDC. The instructions always tell you to use the 20*ATDC port. The magnetic adapter has a snugger fit there but the 0* port is usually cleaner. I don't know why the skinny port is preferred.
 

eatont9999

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Personally I'd shoot for 9.5-9.7, ut I doubt you'll break anything at 10.2 As you have observed the big port and the smaller port are 20* apart. The big hole is at 0* and the skinny port is at 20* ATDC. The instructions always tell you to use the 20*ATDC port. The magnetic adapter has a snugger fit there but the 0* port is usually cleaner. I don't know why the skinny port is preferred.

My truck ran at 28 BTDC and it didn't harm the engine to my knowledge. It had crap for power and smoked more than it should have but no harm done. I agree with anything in the 9-10 BTDC range. It will be a good thing of you install a turbo later as you won't need to adjust the timing.
 

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