Timing in Denve

[colorado_joe]

Anyone know of a place in Denver who can properly time a pump?
Or anyone in Denver have the tool and willing to give a hand?
I've searched where I can so far. It was funny when I even went to International (off hwy 85). They were nice but even said "That truck's too old for us."

Backstory:
I have an '89 7.3 NA. I've installed a new matched set of BB code injectors. Also installed a new Baby Moose pump. New return line kit. New transcold electric fuel pump.
This is all after having the engine out for a couple months cleaning it up, re-sealing it, painting. Went to get emissions done and sad to say I blew a little too much smoke. Let's say over 100% opacity (I guess it should be called 0% opacity). So until I get the smoke down, can't register the truck.

I took the truck to a shop in Denver for timing. They said it was right where it should be which I find hard to believe since I put a Baby Moose on it and just cinched it down so I could drive it to the shop. This shop also said they couldn't use the tool that would give me an exact number (ex: 8.5 btdc) so I don't know where it's at. Also I know the timing can drastically alter the engine.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[The FNG]

Pm icanfixall for timing meter rental. It's worth it and easy to do yourself.

 

[icanfixall]

Pm icanfixall for timing meter rental. It's worth it and easy to do yourself.

Thanks for the comment. It helps the program work for everybody.
I am the member that rents the kent moore j33300-a meters to members here. At this time I have only one meter available because the others are out to members across the country. Its very easy to time using these simple meters. If your the person that installed the Baby Moose then you can time the engine with my help. When we confirm the rental I send you all the information and a little more that I have picked up over the many years of timing these engines. Its your choice to time a cold or warmed up engine. To time cold just remove the cold advance wire and the fast idle solenoid wire. Then you get to work on a cold engine and not burn your hands..

 

[swervyjoe]

I have one. (843) 437-1844

 

[colorado_joe]

I have one. (843) 437-1844

Cool. I'll give you a call tomorrow (tied up tonight).

So follow up question to all....can a properly timed Baby Moose on a NA engine pass emissions at elevation, or do I need a turbo (i.e. MORE air)?

Thanks.

 

[icanfixall]

Cool. I'll give you a call tomorrow (tied up tonight).

So follow up question to all....can a properly timed Baby Moose on a NA engine pass emissions at elevation, or do I need a turbo (i.e. MORE air)?

Thanks.

Yes...





You asked 2 questions and I am able to answer one. You can do plenty of things to pass the test. The easy thing is get it timed. If it still wont pass turn down the fuel but.. Before you do that ask Mel. You do have a warranty on that Baby moose pump and "working on it" may void the warranty. Might also remove the air filter for the test. That way your not sucking thru any restrictions. then drive off about a 1/4 miles and reinstall it. Just don't remove it in front of the test guys. A turbo sure will stuff in more air but thats going to an expreme to pass some dirty air law. Funny how all that crap from japan is filling mother earths lungs as it is doing to us also. Don't even get me started on the crap that flows into the ocean ever day from that triple melt down.. Oh yes.. Thats what it was but we are being kept in the dark mostly bout it. I don't know everything but I do know some things....

 

[colorado_joe]

UPDATE

** UPDATE **

I would like to give a huge thanks to "swervyjoe". He was able to come over and help time my engine. We checked to see the timing it was set at that the shop said was "right where it should be". It turned out to be set at 4.5 degrees!!!
So we bumped it up to 9.8 degrees to see how it would do. It definitely sounded better, and cleared up some blue'ish smoke at idle. Sounded and felt better driving around the block.

Although.... I took the truck back to emissions yesterday and still failed miserably! Way to much fuel and pure black smoke under load on the dyno. Ran 99.5% opacity. To help with the air ratio I took the air filter off for the test too, but no real help.

So the timing is much better (Thanks Joe) but that wasn't the problem for failing emissions. Back to the drawing board then. I'm obviously getting way to much fuel.

I'd like to "fudge it" to pass the test, but I need to get to the root of the problem so it will run right when towing.

Preliminary thoughts:
- Fuel turned up to high on Baby Moose pump. I'd like to not adjust how it was originally set at though.
- Stuck injector? I bought a full set of BB code injectors from Typ4 that were bench tested.

Time to do some research and try to figure this out. Still not able to register the truck till I pass emissions....

Thanks for any ideas/help.

 

[kc0stp]

NA + 5500' elevation = smoke, heck my turbo struggles to pass (but it also has a turbo cal pump), best I can offer is put a throttle stop in for the test or register it outside metro Denver.

 

[colorado_joe]

NA + 5500' elevation = smoke, heck my turbo struggles to pass (but it also has a turbo cal pump), best I can offer is put a throttle stop in for the test or register it outside metro Denver.

I hear that, but I need to make sure I fix (if there is) the root problem so I don't smoke out everyone when towing. And wasting fuel.

I suppose I should also mention it starts really rough when cold. Meaning I have to give it fuel after it turns over to keep it from "choking out". Although it has been COLD outside and I haven't plugged it in.
So along with the rough start, there is a lot of smoke on startup, but clears up quickly.
And I get a little smoke out of the intake.

 

[icanfixall]

About the only thing left to do is turn down the fuel but call Mel before you do this. As for the shop that INSTALLED THE PUMP... Does this statement mean you did not install it.. If so how do you know the shop installed it correctly. If they lifted off the housing, gear and the pump to change it then they may have messed up the gear timing. These engines will run horribly but they will run being 180 degrees out of gear timing. You will know by looking at the injection pump gear cover housing if they removed it to relace the pump. I realize I'm running down a road here about the pump but I feel the more info you have the more power you have to make changes. Turning down the pump is done by a very slight turn of a 5/32 allen wrench. You move it one flat of the wrench at a time. This can be done only after talking to Mel about the warranty.

 

[colorado_joe]

Thanks icanfixall for the response. I did the work myself, and did remove and re-install the gear. I can only assume I did it right. Probably check 100 times that the gear was right before putting the housing on. The shop was only to get it timed, which thanks to Joe coming over with the meter, was much more help.