Timing help in MD

[Luda-Chris]

Anyone in MD with a meter or can anyone recommend a good shop that can do it? I have a 92 7.3 IDI NA that has a whitish haze at idle, that will burn your eyes and smells like unburnt fuel. I suspect the timing may be retarded but it could be time to do the IP and injectors.

She starts up every time with aid of the GP's. In the summer months it wont start unless the GP's cycle. I have no idea how old the IP or injectors are. I don't want to throw all new parts in it if it doesn't necessarily need it.

Thanks Guys!

PS: I've ghosted this forum for the last year or so and finally decided to get serious and make an account. My truck is used to run trash to the dump and occasionally I'll cruise to work in it, she's been good to me so far but I often wonder if it could be running better!

 

[chillman88]

Have you checked the timing registry?

I think @laserjock is in MD somewhere?

 

[Luda-Chris]

Have you checked the timing registry?

I think @laserjock is in MD somewhere?

I haven't, but I will look for it. Sorry FNG here haha

 

[chillman88]

I haven't, but I will look for it. Sorry FNG here haha

No problem, should be in the stickies at the top of this forum.

 

[chillman88]

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/timing-service-registry.70126/

 

[pafixitman]

Couple of us above you in Carroll County. Laserjock has a meter, I do not.

 

[Luda-Chris]

Couple of us above you in Carroll County. Laserjock has a meter, I do not.

I’ll certainly appreciate any help. Part of me wants to replace everything and start fresh, but it may just be a timing issue.

 

[JLug]

I went down a rabbit trail on my buddies 87 6.9L IDI a month ago. I replaced everything that you could think of! I thought that I was chasing air intrusion. In reality, the culprit ended up being poor fuel supply. I replaced everything brand new/rebuilt! Injector pump, injectors, fuel lines, o-rings, fuel filter, fuel sending units, glow plugs, glow plug relay, valve cover gaskets (they leaked)...he's got a brand new truck with 95K original miles now!...long and the short was this. I bypassed the fuel filter, and installed a clear inline filter so I could take a look at fuel flow...I noticed that it was only about 1/2 full when idling...if I ramped up the RPMs it would even dip below that (not enough fuel coming in). So, I did what I should have done all along, and started at the tank and worked forwards. I ended up running a line from the "out" side of the sending unit on the tank directly to the manual fuel pump at the block. Fixed everything! I was kicking myself for not doing this @ the beginning. You may want to start there.

IDI timing is easy! Set the timing line on the injector 1/16" towards the passenger side of the truck; that's a good starting point. You may end up somewhere between 1/16" and 1/8". I didn't use all of the tools recommended (I couldn't find them locally), and his truck runs perfect!

I've got a 91 IDI with the 7.3L diesel with 99K original miles. Working on them is very similar! Hope this helps you out bro!

 

[Luda-Chris]

He’s where the pump is set now for reference.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[gandalf]

Almost beyond a doubt your timing is retarded. Timed at that point I would expect a grayish haze and to be a bit low on power. I'd start by rotating the pump until the pump line is about 1/16th inch the other side of the reference line. Time it from there with an actual meter if you can.

I say the above on the assumption that those lines are at the top of their area, not part way down the driver's side.

Just for general information, the reference line is there more for factory use than for owner use. Two trucks may have their timing the same, say 8.5btdc, with the pump line in slightly different locations.

 

[Luda-Chris]

Almost beyond a doubt your timing is retarded. Timed at that point I would expect a grayish haze and to be a bit low on power. I'd start by rotating the pump until the pump line is about 1/16th inch the other side of the reference line. Time it from there with an actual meter if you can.

I say the above on the assumption that those lines are at the top of their area, not part way down the driver's side.

Just for general information, the reference line is there more for factory use than for owner use. Two trucks may have their timing the same, say 8.5btdc, with the pump line in slightly different locations.

Thanks for confirming what I was thinking. I wiped the dirt off the pump and was surprised to see the pump line right of reference line. I’ll have to rig up a wrench to get to the bottom bolt soon.

 

[riphip]

Grind a 9/16 boxed end down to 5/16 - 1/4" thick. Works great. Turn pump and tighten only with engine OFF.

 

[Luda-Chris]

Grind a 9/16 boxed end down to 5/16 - 1/4" thick. Works great. Turn pump and tighten only with engine OFF.

I just ordered some obstruction wrenches from harbor freight. I'll grind it down some when they come in

 

[Luda-Chris]

Almost beyond a doubt your timing is retarded. Timed at that point I would expect a grayish haze and to be a bit low on power. I'd start by rotating the pump until the pump line is about 1/16th inch the other side of the reference line. Time it from there with an actual meter if you can.

I say the above on the assumption that those lines are at the top of their area, not part way down the driver's side.

Just for general information, the reference line is there more for factory use than for owner use. Two trucks may have their timing the same, say 8.5btdc, with the pump line in slightly different locations.

I finally got around to loosening the bolts and turning the pump. Tension from the fuel lines kept me from turning it too much, I moved it about a dimes thickness to the passenger side. I'm guessing I would need to loosen the fuel lines on the IP to turn it more.

even with the small adjustment, the truck has a lot more pep.