They think they found the leak!

[GaPchNCrm]

In reference to this post: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10400&page=1 They think they found it. They said the rubber grommet ( sp?) at the base of the oil return line from the turbo was split in two, and was gushing oil. They think thats the most of it, but they are going to replace the valve cover gaskets as there was minor leaking from there also. The part should be in Monday, and I guess however long it takes to actually fix it....

I can't wait to have my truck back!

 

[ericboutin]

That's pretty awesome!! Glad it wasn't anything to catastrophic!! Sounds like it may even be reasonable, price-wise that is.

 

[gabbyr100rs]

OOOORAHHHH!

 

[Agnem]

That's great news Tanya. Guess we all have a new appreciation for how much oil flows through that turbo at any given time.

 

[Diesel JD]

That will definitely cause one massive oil leak...and it's not he first time I've heard of this on an ATS/Ford factory turbo. I thought this had already happened to you an your husband before with the same part? Am I right?
Glad it wasn't serious,
J.D.

 

[hoodshauler]

I replaced the supply tube about 6 months ago. Not hard to beleive they have problems with the tubes though, the way they are positioned is not the best of design in my opinion.

Sure was relieved to hear that is where it was coming from and to have found a shop around here that knows what they are doing. They have told us every thing they have done and asked us what we wanted done about every detail of this repair. So far its all with these guys.

Of course it may have helped that we are knowledgeable about our motor so they could not pull no crap.

Thanks again too all for the ideas and help. Sholud be back on the road the first of next week.

 

[zigg]

Wooohooo!!

 

[Freight_Train]

So,does this mean I won't be getting a 3rd blown up motor from you guys just yet?

Could you ask them if they can have a couple blocks bored and sleeved for me.I want the block heated and sleeves frozen.Place here in town bores the block .001 larger than the OD of the Sleeve and lock-Tite's it in place.I like the freeze/heat method since the sleeve locks in place when it expands and the block contracts.Gonna have 2 block laying on the ground real soon needing a bore.Getting White Horses rig for the engine.That one is going in the E for now.Just so I can have a couple diesels to drive and play with.

 

[geonc]

Glad to hear that at least they seem honest and don't see a poor lil girl with a big truck

Keep em' in check BJ

 

[hoodshauler]

I think Tanya blew the guy at the shops mind when he ask her is there any thing about her truck they needed to know and she started raddeling off about the pyro and the 4 th gear grind at times and the fact that it was an IDI not a DI or power stroke. .

They call every time they find some thing and have asked and explained everything they wanted to do so far I can say

Frieght train I will ask them next week about the sleeving.

 

[typ4]

Hey Freight train, did I read that right, that "shop", using term loosely, bores 1 thou OVER then puts the sleeve in. That is not accepted practice in any engine that I know of except 71 series detroit. Plus the loctite kills heat transfer. I do lots of sleeves in 300 fords and theay always get the heat and freeze method. Half to 1 thou interference then bore and hone to exact size.
Some people can get away with anything, ignorance is bliss I always say.

 

[icanfixall]

A 1/2 to 1 thousands interferance press fit will do but you must cool the sleeve in liquid nitrogen. We do this all the time in our shop. The nitrogen is really cool to work with but.... Its VERY dangerous too. Burns like you know what if it gets on you. What kind of step is at the bottom of the sleeve bore? This is a must have otherwise the sleeve can and will slip down on the crank causing all kinds of stuff grinding off.

 

[Freight_Train]

they said they just put a normal 90degree step at the bottom(not sure if they also put a shelf at the top too),Glue the sleeve in and deck the block to make the sleeves flush with the mating surface!There is a place up in Huntsville that builds the big boys engines for NHRA but they want $1800 to bore and sleeve my block!Now if that included bore,sleeve,Line bore,Trueing,installing cam bearings maybe........But this place wants right at 900 for a block job.(55 a sleeve 50 to bore per hole plus tax,GRRR 8%).