'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
^^^^
Studly advice
- Thread starter IDIBRONCO
- Start date
^^^^
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
^^^Thank you for the clarification.
Not all of them just the first one and only after the first torque sequence.
It does eliminate a single point of stress in that one spot.
Doing all of them is worthless.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
that makes no sense.......
what makes the first stud any different from the last stud or any in between?
you can see in the email i got directly from ARP, there is no need to do that unless the OEM calls for it.
what makes the first stud any different from the last stud or any in between?
you can see in the email i got directly from ARP, there is no need to do that unless the OEM calls for it.
You do it your way I'll do it mine.
Does that make sense?
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
i don't need an attitude br0. i'm just saying that you are saying that you have to do it a certain way without any proof as to why it is needed. i backed my claim up by posting the email i got from ARP.
i'm not here to prove you or me right or wrong....i'm here to get the facts straight so people don't have to do WAY MORE work just b/c somebody said they have to or else.....kinda like how a lot of people say to torque the studs, then back them off, then retorque them like 5-6 times, then do your final torque.....i know how much work it was to torque my studs once, i can't imagine doing it another 4-5 times.
i'm not here to prove you or me right or wrong....i'm here to get the facts straight so people don't have to do WAY MORE work just b/c somebody said they have to or else.....kinda like how a lot of people say to torque the studs, then back them off, then retorque them like 5-6 times, then do your final torque.....i know how much work it was to torque my studs once, i can't imagine doing it another 4-5 times.
bike-maker
Full Access Member
I used to build race motors, and have probably installed over 100 sets of ARP head studs on various engines. Not trying to say I know more than anyone else here, this is just my experience with them.
We always ran a tap through all of the bolt holes in the block, including the head bolt holes. It is imperative that you run a bottom tap into blind head bolt holes (there's a bottom to the head bolt hole instead of poking through to the water jacket like a small block Chevy) when running studs because the studs will most likely thread further into the hole than the old bolt did. We always bottomed the studs out, hand tight (as per the ARP instructions), and never used any kind of oil or never sieze on them (at least the blind tapped holes). Using oil on the steads can actually hydro lock them and give you the false sense that they bottomed out in the hole.
We always torqued the heads down 1 time, the same as if bolts were installed (but going by ARP's torque specs), and would retorque after the engine had a little run time. Then just run 'em.
I've seen lots of engine failures, and not one failure on any ARP bolt or stud. I've seen the same set of head studs reused in multiple motors for years of torture (like in a Sprint car motors) and they hold up fine. I've even seen multiple times where aluminum rods were chewed to pieces, and the bigget chunk left was where the rod bolt still held the 2 chunks together.
Bottom line, ARP makes good stuff. Just follow there directions, and you'll be golden...
We always ran a tap through all of the bolt holes in the block, including the head bolt holes. It is imperative that you run a bottom tap into blind head bolt holes (there's a bottom to the head bolt hole instead of poking through to the water jacket like a small block Chevy) when running studs because the studs will most likely thread further into the hole than the old bolt did. We always bottomed the studs out, hand tight (as per the ARP instructions), and never used any kind of oil or never sieze on them (at least the blind tapped holes). Using oil on the steads can actually hydro lock them and give you the false sense that they bottomed out in the hole.
We always torqued the heads down 1 time, the same as if bolts were installed (but going by ARP's torque specs), and would retorque after the engine had a little run time. Then just run 'em.
I've seen lots of engine failures, and not one failure on any ARP bolt or stud. I've seen the same set of head studs reused in multiple motors for years of torture (like in a Sprint car motors) and they hold up fine. I've even seen multiple times where aluminum rods were chewed to pieces, and the bigget chunk left was where the rod bolt still held the 2 chunks together.
Bottom line, ARP makes good stuff. Just follow there directions, and you'll be golden...
