used 7.3 studs?

[icanfixall]

Hydro.. I was not busting your chops for posting what you di. I was simpley adding whats known to work and how to say it. Its the same issue we have about timing. Width or thickness of a dime. Many of us know what width means in that connotation used frequently but others don't. Some members will say their engine wont crank but really mean it wont start but it cranks over. I just try to align the posts so others with less expericance than some have a better understanding of whats being talked about here. So please don't feel I singled you out. That was not my intent.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Hey no offense taken sir. I was wanting someone to correct me because I wasn't sure about that one. Thanks Gary

 

[typ4]

http://www.idiperformance.com/studs.php

when I bought mine way back when, they were 545.00 for the setup with 12 pt nuts.

 

[gingrass179]

Is there a way to prove what studs you have for sale. I ask this because there are some fakes out there too. I don't believe ARP stamps their name on them but could be wrong bout that.. The price quoted in this thread is a fair price too.

Yes I still have the box ill take a pic of it tomorrow

 

[gingrass179]

when I bought mine way back when, they were 545.00 for the setup with 12 pt nuts.

Ya no kidding I paid 460+ shipping

 

[icanfixall]

Well guys.. I paid $287.50 for a set of just 7 inch bulk studs from ARP. And for no good reason I got a $43.10 discount and no tax was paid either. these were the same studs Russ has and the part number is AR7.000=1LB way back in 1 1998. I really have no reason for them being that cheap either. I used my name and home address so I was not telling them it was for resale or I was a business. I didn't buy the nuts or washers because I already had them from ARP.. Don't recall why I had them either but they were the 12 point nuts. As for the originall poster asking if these can be reused... Absolutely they can. Thats the design of the studs. They do need to be set by torqueing and loosening 5 times but after that.. you good to go many times. So actually I paid $244.40 for a set of studs.....

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Per ARP's, instructions.......1/2"studs(the ones for use in the 7.3 IDI) with the 190,000psi tensile strength are to be torqued to 125ftlb's when using ARP lube. That is in my ARP catolog and also on their website. torquing the studs down to 125 will give a clamping preload of 18,515lbs.

 

[icanfixall]

Thats interesting information on the torque. 7 years ago it was 110 lbs.. Things do change.. I'm impressed with this news too.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

here is ARP's spec chart. the 170k psi 1/2 studs go to 110 btw.....

http://arpdiesel.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml

 

[icanfixall]

Thats great information to read up on. So I'm thinking I have a set of the lower grade studs that torque at 110 lbs. Not an issue. I did test to failure the new stock head bolts and they broke at 153,000 psi. Seems like a little improvement has been made in the last 7 years. If I ever tear doen my engine I sure will use the higher torque studs just for better clamping force.. May not even be able to buy the ones I have now... Still some great information from those that care to help out another member. I think one of the most important things to remember is use their molly lube and do have your wrench calibrated.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

Gary, they do make 220k psi studs as well.....

if the wrench calibration question was directed towards me......i hope it is calibrated right seeing as how i got the wrench brand new right before the stud install

 

[PackRat239]

I may be interested in the stud set. PM me with a price. Also, ARP stamps their name in all the nuts and bolts they make, but not in studs.

 

[icanfixall]

Nope. The calibration thought was directed at the group as a whole.. I usually don't single anyone out. Making waves is not fun. In the huge machine shop I retired from we had every tool that could measure calibrated on a regular time line. We would get back a sheet telling us what they calibration shop found. Some of those demensions were 0.000000 in size. Just the heat from your hand on the micrometers will make them grow a small amount. We rearel vevr went smaller that 0.00005.. Thats 1/2 of a thousands...

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i emailed ARP about the torque the nuts then back off and retorque multiple times b/c i have heard to do that numerous times but never really understood the need to do that even though it has been explained......


Eric,
if using the ultra torque lubricant it is not necessary to cycle or re-torque the nuts. However (if being used as head studs) the head gasket manufacturer might recommend specific re-torque instructions as the re-torque at this point is to compensate for the compression of the gasket and does not have anything to do with the pre load on the fastener.

Regards, Zac Kimball
Automotive Racing Products
(805) 339-2200 ext. 206


basically, the only need for doing this would be if the OEM calls for it to properly squish the HG if you will. doing this will have no effect on the studs.

 

[icanfixall]

How things have changed from when I was up there talking to them.. Glad to see its easier now. When I torque down any fastenter I usually make three clicks when I hear the sound of the wrench making the torque. So I guess I torque down anything three or four times.. Till I don't feel any movement. I have never gone back a few days later and tried to adjust for gasket compression. I tried that once and found no movement. So the gasket was compressed when I finished the job and not requireing any after adjustment... Now as gaskets improve they require less and less work to make them correct.