Sticky fuel shutoff solenoid in IP?

[man2112]

Hey all,

I’ve been working on this 1990 7.3 IDI that I’m thinking of buying. It’s been sitting for an indeterminate amount of time. I have it running off of a 12v pump and Jerry can of diesel to the fuel filter. I’m getting good fuel pressure and flow through the filter. All of the fuel returns on the injectors are full and pressurized, and the injection pump is getting fuel to the inlet.

When I energize the shutoff solenoid you can hear it clicking on and off, as well as the timing advance solenoid.

I’ve cracked all of the injection lines, and I’ve even removed a couple of the injection lines entirely. With the engine turning over I’m getting 0 fuel flow out of the injection lines.

Is there a chance that the shutoff solenoid isn’t actually opening properly even though it’s clicking? Is there something else in the IP that could be causing it not to send any fuel?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[ih8minimumwage]

Could be the inside of the pump is gummed up if it's been sitting with old fuel. Have had good luck over the years with a filter full of 50/50 ATF and Powerservice or 50/50 ATF and Acetone. Crank long enough to fill the IP and let it sit for a weekend.

If that doesn't do it, might be time to pop the lid off and see what's going on inside (just be careful to reassemble correctly to avoid a runaway).

 

[man2112]

Could be the inside of the pump is gummed up if it's been sitting with old fuel. Have had good luck over the years with a filter full of 50/50 ATF and Powerservice or 50/50 ATF and Acetone. Crank long enough to fill the IP and let it sit for a weekend.

If that doesn't do it, might be time to pop the lid off and see what's going on inside (just be careful to reassemble correctly to avoid a runaway).

Okay that’s a good idea, just the regular homemade penetrating oil mix. I’ve never disassembled an injection pump before so I didn’t want to mess anything up on accident, but that’s certainly an idea I can try out

 

[Big Bart]

How many times did you crank it over? You might still have air in the IP.

 

[man2112]

How many times did you crank it over? You might still have air in the IP.

A lot. Killed the batteries a few times and had to recharge them

 

[man2112]

Nevermind the idling DT466 in the background, I was using it to jump start this truck.

This was after bleeding all the supply lines and cranking it for a while

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[Big Bart]

Good you have cranked enough to know. IH8 might be right. You might be right it is the solenoid. So pull the top off the IP, and check things out. You got nothing to loose and evertything to gain.

1) You can verify if the IP solenoid is working and if the pump is gummed up.
2) If gummed up as IH8 said, pour some ATF/power service directly in the pump and see if you can get working.
3) Be careful to put it back together correctly so it will shut off.

Let us know how it goes.

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[man2112]

Which power service? Diesel kleen? Or supplement?

 

[ih8minimumwage]

Good ol' Diesel Kleen should work fine.

 

[SmokeStacker]

Hey bro
I had that same problem, I fixed it last week!

My truck had been sitting for many years and it would crank but not start, with the same story as yours - killed the batteries, etc.

I read a hundred different posts and watched some youtube..

It was the METERING VALVE inside the top of the injection pump. Basically exactly what you said it was, but the solenoid is not failing, just the valve it operates is gummed up inside.

What I did was:
1. Open up the top (3 screws) and carefully pop it open. It should be full of diesel.
2. With a glove on, carefully grab and wiggle the valve inside, forward and back, until it works again. It took me about 30-40 seconds of wiggling before it felt smooth. There is a few springs that should both move freely. You can see what the FSS is supposed to do inside: it pushes the valve open so the truck can run, and closes it when the key is off. You can see on the top how the solenoid pushes a lever, and that pushes the valve.
3. *Reinstall cover CORRECTLY!! - This means the little lever has to hook on the valve inside while you close it, to be able to properly shut off the fuel, or you will have a RUNAWAY when you start the engine. If you are not 100% sure that its correct, have your air cleaner off and a big clean towel handy when you start the engine, to cover the intake if there's a runaway. Watch a youtube video, there is one specifically for the metering valve.

This last part is super important, as you could easily blow up your engine or be harmed.

That being said, I did it myself with just youtube and I figured it out. It just takes some thinking and clean hands.

Good Luck!!

 

[Farmer Rock]

Maybe I misunderstood (very possible,lol),but are you running a jumper wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid, or is it still plugged in to the harness? I ask, because it may be a wiring problem.
As for metering valves, like was already mentioned, be very sure you reinstall correctly.
Some atf, kerosene, or dieselkleen, and you should be good to go. My 88 (since sold) had both a sticky metering valve, and a Rube Goldberg wiring harness that would kill the power as you were driving. They act the same, but obviously wiring is more finicky to give you an idea.


Rock

 

[man2112]

Alright guys, sorry fir the vertical video, but here’s what she looks like inside after I siphoned all of the diesel out of the top.

After filming this, I filled the pump up with a mix of diesel kleen and marvel mystery oil and I’m going to let it sit until probably after Christmas

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[man2112]

Maybe I misunderstood (very possible,lol),but are you running a jumper wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid, or is it still plugged in to the harness? I ask, because it may be a wiring problem.
As for metering valves, like was already mentioned, be very sure you reinstall correctly.
Some atf, kerosene, or dieselkleen, and you should be good to go. My 88 (since sold) had both a sticky metering valve, and a Rube Goldberg wiring harness that would kill the power as you were driving. They act the same, but obviously wiring is more finicky to give you an idea.


Rock

I’ve run it with both. The harness is giving 12v to the solenoid, and I’ve also junpered it to make sure it was getting 12v

 

[Big Bart]

Does not look too bad, a little gummed up, guessing the metering valve was stuck or a little clogged. Let us know how it works out. I am bullish that is going to work out for you!

Merry Christmas!

 

[man2112]

Does not look too bad, a little gummed up, guessing the metering valve was stuck or a little clogged. Let us know how it works out. I am bullish that is going to work out for you!

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas to you too!

The weird part is that everything moved freely in there already. The only thing I was concerned about is the one spring seems like it was too compressed and not springy enough?

I’m going to let it soak until probably after Christmas as I’m busy at work all this week