Steering Whel Slop Repair

[icanfixall]

Well I fixed the play in my wheel and took a pic of whats wrong. The repair is simple but reaching in is terrible. The shaft needs to be removed by taking out the bolt at the firewall and sliding the shaft down to the gear box. Then pull it up and out. then you will see the stub shaft from the rag joint has the broken flat spring and the plastic holder. Thats tuff to remove because the plastic fits so tightly. Anyway once it of clean it and reinstall the flat spring and plastic holder anyway that works for you. Remember its a tuff place to reach. Lube it and slide the steering shaft back on that stub shaft and then push it up to the firewall shaft. That firewall connection can only be made one way too so there is no problem with messing it up. Thats about it..

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[riotwarrior]

Thanks Gary, seen that a few times, fixed them a few more...

Nice shot of broken spring...aint that a ****** when that happens...I know it is for me!

 

[icanfixall]

Al I can't find a reason for the flat spring to break either. Just replace it is all I can do for now.

 

[79jasper]

Left is broken spring, right is good spring?

 

[icanfixall]

Yes. The left is the spring thats broken. That spring fits into a special machined area on the stub shaft. Then the plastic piece holds that in place. Then that black shaft slides down over all that. Be sure to grease that plastic piece and the spring so the shaft slides easily over it. Before you try to assemble that test fit the upper u joint end to be sure which way it fits up at the firewall. I had a hell of a time trying to "make it fit". Turns out the joint will only fit one way and thats a good thing.

 

[79jasper]

Ah I see.
I wander if there's any way to make it better. Without interfering with the collapsible function.

 

[whalebus]

So Im guessing the spring goes over the notched out area of the plastic collar and the bottom middle of the spring goes threw the notch an pushes against the slip shaft inside? What would you call those parts so I can order them up. Thanks for the info and pics

edit: sorry missed your post at 8:10 lol

 

[icanfixall]

Actually that flat spring fit in the rectangle hole in the plastic but its longer so I had to work hard to get it to fit. The machined area of the stub shaft to the rag joint has three areas cut out of it. The spring ends fit into the end areas and the top of the spring bend fit over a piece of the plastic that missing. I really can't tell you what the parts are called but any good Ford parts counter person will be able to show you a pic of what you need. I have no idea if Ford sells these parts any longer. They might. I have found plenty of no longer parts on some of the big fords and mercs. Lost of parts were shared between cars and trucks. The spring is what closes up the gap between the two shafts so the wheel has no play. You would be surprised how small the slop is between the two shafts. Have someone slightly turn the steering wheel as you feel the joint for slop. Any slop is no good and no amount of adjusting the steering box will change that.

 

[whalebus]

Doing some searching it seems that those parts are obsolete but I will check with my local dealers. If I cant find the parts I guess I will just weld it up and hope I never get into an bad head on collision lol. Thanks a lot for the info

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Just to be certain I am understanding just what I am reading, the parts being discussed are within the factory steering-shaft and if one has a Borgeson or Flaming River, then none of this applies to them, correct ??

Thanks.

 

[icanfixall]

Just to be certain I am understanding just what I am reading, the parts being discussed are within the factory steering-shaft and if one has a Borgeson or Flaming River, then none of this applies to them, correct ??

Thanks.

I really can't say what the above shafts have in this area for slop control. I just know this is whats been an issue for me the past few years. I test drove the truck yesterday and its tight. almost too tight but I will work with that for a few miles and probably adjust it some to free it up. I feel no binding when I turn it all the way over to lock. When I turn right or left to another street the wheel freewheels back nicely.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I guess a simpler way of asking my previous question would be:

The pictured shaft is the one that is directly connected to the stub poking out of the steering-gear, right ??

Thanks.

 

[Greg5OH]

i broke mine when i pulled the shaft to pull the oil cooler. figured meh, just a small plastic piece. nope, no way in hell i could drive like that. thankfully i pulled one from a spare column i had. much better. Now, just gotta replace my worn out tie rods.

 

[towcat]

Just to be certain I am understanding just what I am reading, the parts being discussed are within the factory steering-shaft and if one has a Borgeson or Flaming River, then none of this applies to them, correct ??

Thanks.

the information posted by Gary is for OEM shafts only.

 

[icanfixall]

I guess a simpler way of asking my previous question would be:

The pictured shaft is the one that is directly connected to the stub poking out of the steering-gear, right ??

Thanks.

Yes. This is the factory oem shaft from the firewall to the rag joint stub shaft. I guess its a fair design but mine has broken twice now in the last 5 or 6 years.