TNBrett
Full Access Member
The seal that he shows is listed as a thr ust washer seal for ‘93 and up applications. Apparently up through ‘92 the thr ust washer and seal were 2 separate parts.
Spindle questions
- Thread starter Selahdoor
- Start date
Ok, What I got is 2 separate parts. I think mine is supposed to be the one piece deal.
I'll check that out more thoroughly on mine again. But as I recall, mine looked more like his, (In his video.)
It was totally destroyed on the passenger side. I didn't look that closely at the driver's side. But I noticed that both of the spindles were in good shape in that area. Unlike the pitting and rust in someone else's video of an earlier version.
And mine is a late 92. In some ways it is like a 93.
I'll take off the driver's side seal today, and have a good look at all involved.
I'll check that out more thoroughly on mine again. But as I recall, mine looked more like his, (In his video.)
It was totally destroyed on the passenger side. I didn't look that closely at the driver's side. But I noticed that both of the spindles were in good shape in that area. Unlike the pitting and rust in someone else's video of an earlier version.
And mine is a late 92. In some ways it is like a 93.
I'll take off the driver's side seal today, and have a good look at all involved.
Groan.
I swear, these must be the original u-joints and shafts.
The whole thing is rusted so solid that the ends of the retaining clips just broke off. Now I am dealing with figuring out how to get the rest of the clip to come out.
If I had cold chisels, a welding torch, and a good solid bench vise, I might stand a chance. I have none of those. Can't afford to take it to a shop and have them do it, either.
So far I just have it sitting on a solid surface. Then going slowly around the outside of the bearing cap, using a bolt as a punch, and a 3 pound sledge, I am trying to drive the bearing cap in far enough to give some clearance to the clip. Still going to have to figure out how to get the rest of that clip out of the groove.
If that fails, I guess I could try getting the dremel out with a grinding stone and grind just the clip back far enough to give clearance for the cap. Although now I am wondering if I am deforming the cap enough to cause problems anyway.
I swear, these must be the original u-joints and shafts.
The whole thing is rusted so solid that the ends of the retaining clips just broke off. Now I am dealing with figuring out how to get the rest of the clip to come out.
If I had cold chisels, a welding torch, and a good solid bench vise, I might stand a chance. I have none of those. Can't afford to take it to a shop and have them do it, either.
So far I just have it sitting on a solid surface. Then going slowly around the outside of the bearing cap, using a bolt as a punch, and a 3 pound sledge, I am trying to drive the bearing cap in far enough to give some clearance to the clip. Still going to have to figure out how to get the rest of that clip out of the groove.
If that fails, I guess I could try getting the dremel out with a grinding stone and grind just the clip back far enough to give clearance for the cap. Although now I am wondering if I am deforming the cap enough to cause problems anyway.
Ok, I got half of a u-joint done.
What I did was to dremel grind the clip itself, until it was clear of the cap. Flush with the joint it is in. Had the be very careful, didn't want to grind any of the yoke away.
Then I was able to use the u-joint tool to press from the other side.
Thought that massive tool was going to break! Man, were those things rust welded in place!
Time to get back to work.
What I did was to dremel grind the clip itself, until it was clear of the cap. Flush with the joint it is in. Had the be very careful, didn't want to grind any of the yoke away.
Then I was able to use the u-joint tool to press from the other side.
Thought that massive tool was going to break! Man, were those things rust welded in place!
Time to get back to work.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I think this is the best bet.
From what I've seen, the other clip deforms instead of a cap. The only thing about them being so rusty is that if it takes that much pressure to remove the U-joints, you may deform the yoke itself. I've seen the aftermath from a guy who tried to use a press to remove a U-joint in a front drive axle in a Dodge. He had to buy another axle shaft because he deformed the original one.
We did axle joints on my brother in law's 2012 Jeep and I was shocked how rusted in they were. I can't imagine the 94 axle I have here is going to be much fun either!
Good tip is as you're applying pressure to the press/clamp hit around the yoke with a decent sized hammer, not huge, but something with a little heft to vibrate the joint and loosen it up. This will also help prevent destroying/distorting the yoke. I used a 3lb mallet.
When we did the Jeep I'd put some pressure on it and then smack it and it would POP and give. I'd have been in trouble if I'd just kept forcing it!
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Penetrating oil is your friend here for sure. And a good night's sleep to let it work.
I'm one of those guys that bent a yoke in your situation...with a socket and a 4lb sledge. I must have hit that thing 100 times as hard as I could. With penetrating oil I think it would have been fine. Didn't think of it!
Speaking of a 4lb sledge, that's one of those tools I don't know how I lived without it once I got one. Does most of the work on anything drivetrain/steering related it seems.
I'm one of those guys that bent a yoke in your situation...with a socket and a 4lb sledge. I must have hit that thing 100 times as hard as I could. With penetrating oil I think it would have been fine. Didn't think of it!
Speaking of a 4lb sledge, that's one of those tools I don't know how I lived without it once I got one. Does most of the work on anything drivetrain/steering related it seems.
This tool is one that I don't know how I have lived without!!!
Ok, what I did with the one where both clips had broken off...
I used the dremel tool to grind one of the clips away, until the cap had clearance. Pushed it through from the other side, and went from there.
The next two clips I did a bit different. I sprayed in the PB blaster and let it sit a while. Then I used a small bolt in some pliers, and a 3lb sledge to beat on the cap, right beside the clip, all the way around. Sprayed it some more. Then tapped on the clip itself all the way around, a little bit at a time. Went round a couple times, and by that time it was kind of loose.
First clip broke exactly in half. But half came out fine. I did a bit more tapping then took the other half out in one piece.
Did the same to the last clip, and it came out in one piece.
Dropped the new u-joint in. Dropped a cap on......... Cap just dropped right through the yoke. They gave me the wrong u-joints. So I just spent the last nearly 3 hours rushing back into town to get the right ones, before the store closed.
If I have any other wrong parts I am out of luck until monday.
Anyway. Back to work!
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Ok, what I did with the one where both clips had broken off...
I used the dremel tool to grind one of the clips away, until the cap had clearance. Pushed it through from the other side, and went from there.
The next two clips I did a bit different. I sprayed in the PB blaster and let it sit a while. Then I used a small bolt in some pliers, and a 3lb sledge to beat on the cap, right beside the clip, all the way around. Sprayed it some more. Then tapped on the clip itself all the way around, a little bit at a time. Went round a couple times, and by that time it was kind of loose.
First clip broke exactly in half. But half came out fine. I did a bit more tapping then took the other half out in one piece.
Did the same to the last clip, and it came out in one piece.
Dropped the new u-joint in. Dropped a cap on......... Cap just dropped right through the yoke.
They gave me the wrong u-joints. So I just spent the last nearly 3 hours rushing back into town to get the right ones, before the store closed.If I have any other wrong parts I am out of luck until monday.
Anyway. Back to work!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes it is! Ditto on the overnight soak. If it's still stubborn, you may try a little heat. I'm thinking of a propane torch here not an acetylene torch. You want to expand the metal to break the rust loose. Too much heat and you'll be back to buying another shaft.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
All u-joints are a PITA!
Double ditto on soak with oil prior if possible and heat where needed.
Here is a good video for all to watch. Shows some good techniques for taking out and putting in u-joints. It does not go into rust challenges but shows some good techniques and good tools. Also I find impact sockets often can substitute for large punches.
Also I find a pneumatic hammer often helps. The vibration and short blows seem to help with stubborn u-joints but does not seem to bend the yoke. Just keep away from the edges of the yoke, focus on hitting in the middle of the u-joint cap. You can damage the slot for the c-clip.
Double ditto on soak with oil prior if possible and heat where needed.
Here is a good video for all to watch. Shows some good techniques for taking out and putting in u-joints. It does not go into rust challenges but shows some good techniques and good tools. Also I find impact sockets often can substitute for large punches.
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Also I find a pneumatic hammer often helps. The vibration and short blows seem to help with stubborn u-joints but does not seem to bend the yoke. Just keep away from the edges of the yoke, focus on hitting in the middle of the u-joint cap. You can damage the slot for the c-clip.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
2WD sometimes has its advantages!
Selahdoor I have done this on my Jeep and a 95 F-150 4x4 I used to have so I know your pain!
I always suggest doing both at the same time, just bite the bullet and your good for years to come. Also a great time to do front brakes and wheel bearings.
Selahdoor I have done this on my Jeep and a 95 F-150 4x4 I used to have so I know your pain!
I always suggest doing both at the same time, just bite the bullet and your good for years to come. Also a great time to do front brakes and wheel bearings.
Ok, I am finished with the axles and the spindles.
Here is how I mark the yokes for the u-joints before taking them apart. Just a quick file mark on two pieces close to each other.
Here are the seals and the bearing, that are used for this spindle. Now, I am doing this to note the parts as well, in case anyone else wants to use the 93 parts on rigs that are earlier. More after the pic.
Ok, these parts are for a 93. My truck is a 92, but it was a late 92, so it got the 93 seals.
In 92, this area got a very flimsy couple of rubber seals, and that was it. I have seen 92s and earlier where the backside of the spindle is horrendously rusted in this area. It is because of those crappy cheap seals. If you buy this dana spicer kit for the spindle you will get those cheap little seals: https://www.amazon.com/Dana-Spicer-700014-Spindle-Rebuild/dp/B009X1XFRM
Parts numbered one and two are two parts of the seal that goes into the spindle after the bearing is installed. Number 3 is a part that goes onto the axle. It has a 'cup' that seats positively up against the back side of the spindle, to block out any dust.
Seal 1&2 snaps together into one seal. Here is a link for that: https://www.amazon.com/National-710455-Oil-Seal/dp/B000C5LJEE
Seal 3: https://www.amazon.com/National-710413-Oil-Seal/dp/B001ODAS68
Here is 1 and 2, snapped together.
Here is that seal in the spindle, after the bearing was installed, and packed with grease.
Here is seal #3 installed on the axle.
continued in next post
Here is how I mark the yokes for the u-joints before taking them apart. Just a quick file mark on two pieces close to each other.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here are the seals and the bearing, that are used for this spindle. Now, I am doing this to note the parts as well, in case anyone else wants to use the 93 parts on rigs that are earlier. More after the pic.
You must be registered for see images attach
Ok, these parts are for a 93. My truck is a 92, but it was a late 92, so it got the 93 seals.
In 92, this area got a very flimsy couple of rubber seals, and that was it. I have seen 92s and earlier where the backside of the spindle is horrendously rusted in this area. It is because of those crappy cheap seals. If you buy this dana spicer kit for the spindle you will get those cheap little seals: https://www.amazon.com/Dana-Spicer-700014-Spindle-Rebuild/dp/B009X1XFRM
Parts numbered one and two are two parts of the seal that goes into the spindle after the bearing is installed. Number 3 is a part that goes onto the axle. It has a 'cup' that seats positively up against the back side of the spindle, to block out any dust.
Seal 1&2 snaps together into one seal. Here is a link for that: https://www.amazon.com/National-710455-Oil-Seal/dp/B000C5LJEE
Seal 3: https://www.amazon.com/National-710413-Oil-Seal/dp/B001ODAS68
Here is 1 and 2, snapped together.
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Here is that seal in the spindle, after the bearing was installed, and packed with grease.
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Here is seal #3 installed on the axle.
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continued in next post
Here is the seal on the axle, packed with grease, and the area that the seal rides in on the spindle, also packed with grease. Ready to re-install the spindle.
With both of those packed full like that, the seal will be sure to trap a bunch of grease in there, and keep it protected for a good long while.
Before anyone says it, no, I am not worried that any grease is going to make it's way to the brake rotors and pads.
Just for kicks and grins, here is the tool I am using to pack things full of grease.
I believe it is an art tool. Springy stainless steel spatula looking thing. I think it is called a canvas/pallet knife.
Packs that grease in there tight, and smooths it off quickly and easily. If you can find one it will save you a lot of hassle and mess.
I'll finish putting the races and bearings in the hubs, and installing them tomorrow. I won't show that, because this is about the spindles.
To end this, a video, to show the difference between the "wobble" now, and the 'wobble' before I started. (Reference the video at the beginning of this thread to see the before, wobble.)
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With both of those packed full like that, the seal will be sure to trap a bunch of grease in there, and keep it protected for a good long while.
Before anyone says it, no, I am not worried that any grease is going to make it's way to the brake rotors and pads.
Just for kicks and grins, here is the tool I am using to pack things full of grease.
You must be registered for see images attach
I believe it is an art tool. Springy stainless steel spatula looking thing. I think it is called a canvas/pallet knife.
Packs that grease in there tight, and smooths it off quickly and easily. If you can find one it will save you a lot of hassle and mess.
I'll finish putting the races and bearings in the hubs, and installing them tomorrow. I won't show that, because this is about the spindles.
To end this, a video, to show the difference between the "wobble" now, and the 'wobble' before I started. (Reference the video at the beginning of this thread to see the before, wobble.)
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Is that the "bad" side in the video? Looks a lot better to me!
