XOLATEM
Full Access Member
When I worked at an equipment dealer we fabbed them up pretty often...
If you take your cables to a good-sized tractor dealer they might hook you up...no pun intended...
Charging question
- Thread starter mf7lakes
- Start date
If you take your cables to a good-sized tractor dealer they might hook you up...no pun intended...
Rocknit4x4
Registered User
7.3 & 6.9 IDI OEM Replacement Battery Cables
Replace your 30+ year old battery cables with our affordable OEM replacement assemblies, this kit includes all new factory connections and insulators to replace the battery crossover/starter feed as well as both engine ground cables.
classicdieseldesigns.com
IDI Battery Cables | IDI Diesel
Battery Cable Set for IDI trucks. Please let me know if you need a 90 degree bend lug on your starter. This kit is compatible with group 31 batteries. Kit includes:4/0 crossover positive to positive cable.4/0 Battery to starter cable.New starter trigger wireNew 2/0 grounds from Batteries to...
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
This is what I'd do, then you can brag on them being "custom".
mf7lakes
Full Access Member
Any of you guys ever used a battery terminal like this ------>
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Ok for stationary equipment.
They place a lot of stress on the terminal.
I would do a junction block for the extra take offs.
They place a lot of stress on the terminal.
I would do a junction block for the extra take offs.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
I have this type Battery Clamp on my batteries
They also make this style.
Go down to your local NAPA, and they will make up Cables any length you need.
Have Ring terminals crimped on.
Goat
Wing Nut Lead Battery Terminals - Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
Wing Nut Lead Battery Terminals - Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
www.sherco-auto.com
They also make this style.
Ordinance Bolt Type Lead Battery Terminals - Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
Ordinance Bolt Type Lead Battery Terminals - Sherco Automotive & Marine Supplies
www.sherco-auto.com
Go down to your local NAPA, and they will make up Cables any length you need.
Have Ring terminals crimped on.
Goat
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
Another hint at finding the bad connection...
Disconnect the ground of one of the batteries. Attempt a quickie start. You don't need to actually start the engine, you just need to use the starter motor as an electrical load, as well as an acoustical "meter" and listen to it. Good vigorous crank? Then the sole battery that had the load circuit is probably fine.
Reconnect the ground you had removed, and remove the other battery ground. Again attempt a start. Expect it to fail.
Your problem is somewhere in the circuit that won't give a vigorous crank. Bad connection or failing battery.
If both configurations work, I'm stumped.
Safety note ...
I think everybody here knows this...but I warn again for the sake of those new to this forum is that really bad things quickly happen if one isn't aware of this safety precaution. Tools will weld themselves into the worst place possible.
Removing the ground side of the batteries first is a safety thing. Messing with the positive side of a battery rail with metal tools without disconnecting BOTH battery negatives FIRST is a very risky endeavor considering a slipped metal tool bridging the positive battery rail to frame ground.
Disconnect the ground of one of the batteries. Attempt a quickie start. You don't need to actually start the engine, you just need to use the starter motor as an electrical load, as well as an acoustical "meter" and listen to it. Good vigorous crank? Then the sole battery that had the load circuit is probably fine.
Reconnect the ground you had removed, and remove the other battery ground. Again attempt a start. Expect it to fail.
Your problem is somewhere in the circuit that won't give a vigorous crank. Bad connection or failing battery.
If both configurations work, I'm stumped.
Safety note ...
I think everybody here knows this...but I warn again for the sake of those new to this forum is that really bad things quickly happen if one isn't aware of this safety precaution. Tools will weld themselves into the worst place possible.
Removing the ground side of the batteries first is a safety thing. Messing with the positive side of a battery rail with metal tools without disconnecting BOTH battery negatives FIRST is a very risky endeavor considering a slipped metal tool bridging the positive battery rail to frame ground.
nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
Insulated wrenches.
Or, tape some pawn shop wrenches with plenty of electrical tape.
Or, tape some pawn shop wrenches with plenty of electrical tape.
mf7lakes
Full Access Member
Hey -- Beast-O-Master -- followed your instruciones - disconnected driver's side negative -- truck started immediately. Then reconnected same -- then disconnected pax side negative -- no dome light, no nuttin' ....
Borrowed a good multi-tester for the big red positive cable -- mostly tested totally open - no continuity at all. Wiggled the leads around, when it did show some continuity, it showed up to 250 ohms.
Haven't gotten under there yet, but does the big red starter wire usually have a 90° bend in it's connector ???
Thanks to you and everyone
Borrowed a good multi-tester for the big red positive cable -- mostly tested totally open - no continuity at all. Wiggled the leads around, when it did show some continuity, it showed up to 250 ohms.
Haven't gotten under there yet, but does the big red starter wire usually have a 90° bend in it's connector ???
Thanks to you and everyone
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
....it's got ..... the cancer......
LucasTheePrinceOfDarkness
Has visited upon you the medallion of old age
Has visited upon you the medallion of old age
mf7lakes
Full Access Member
You guys are diggin' deep now
Nawww
Just a confirmation of my earlier post about corrosion...
Just a confirmation of my earlier post about corrosion...
BeastMaster
Full Access Member
Mf7lakes : Very happy you found it. There is nothing like the peace of mind one gets once one knows where the problem is.
FWIW, my van does not have a sharp bend in the heavy battery bus. I also consider it poor practice to sharply bend wires, especially large wires, due to the tensile stress placed on the wire along the outer radius of the bend. It promotes metal fatigue and stress cracking, followed by corrosion.
I wonder if truck electrical shop or welding shop would have the proper crimpers and connectors/lugs to fabricate a replacement link for you. Old Goat mentioned NAPA had tools to make these on the fly. I had to fabricate replacement links when I replaced my glow plug wiring, and fabricated integral fuse wire so that a disaster at my glow plug relay wouldn't fry my batteries or wiring harness. A caveat I ran into is selecting proper wire insulation compatible with under-hood temperatures and oils.
Personally, I like to crimp then solder, the solder mostly acting as a filler to keep any battery acid from wicking into the connector. Dielectric grease would help too to displace contaminates.
I have the same kind of battery lugs Old Goat posted above. Whichever kind fit best. I have up to four ring terminals on each battery lug. My heavy circuits are the starter motor, alternator, glow plugs, fuse box main feeder, and an auxiliary power distribution relay / fuse box for toys.
( Fuse wire aka a "fusible link" is just plain stranded copper wire, it's just that it's insulation is appropriate for containing the aftermath of molten wire and arcing upon circuit overload, with the link designed to fail first by sizing it about four gauges smaller than the wire it is protecting.)
.
FWIW, my van does not have a sharp bend in the heavy battery bus. I also consider it poor practice to sharply bend wires, especially large wires, due to the tensile stress placed on the wire along the outer radius of the bend. It promotes metal fatigue and stress cracking, followed by corrosion.
I wonder if truck electrical shop or welding shop would have the proper crimpers and connectors/lugs to fabricate a replacement link for you. Old Goat mentioned NAPA had tools to make these on the fly. I had to fabricate replacement links when I replaced my glow plug wiring, and fabricated integral fuse wire so that a disaster at my glow plug relay wouldn't fry my batteries or wiring harness. A caveat I ran into is selecting proper wire insulation compatible with under-hood temperatures and oils.
Personally, I like to crimp then solder, the solder mostly acting as a filler to keep any battery acid from wicking into the connector. Dielectric grease would help too to displace contaminates.
I have the same kind of battery lugs Old Goat posted above. Whichever kind fit best. I have up to four ring terminals on each battery lug. My heavy circuits are the starter motor, alternator, glow plugs, fuse box main feeder, and an auxiliary power distribution relay / fuse box for toys.
( Fuse wire aka a "fusible link" is just plain stranded copper wire, it's just that it's insulation is appropriate for containing the aftermath of molten wire and arcing upon circuit overload, with the link designed to fail first by sizing it about four gauges smaller than the wire it is protecting.)
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nelstomlinson
Full Access Member
Three wire gauges smaller means half the area, twice the resistance. 4AWG smaller should definitely fail first. NOT using the special fusible link wire would have the advantage you could see the failed bit.
I eventually bought a nifty hydraulic crimper set used on fleabay. For a long time, though, I used a cheapie Chinee hammer crimper tool. It was awkward, but as long as I could take the wire out and lay it on the floor, the cheapie worked.
I eventually bought a nifty hydraulic crimper set used on fleabay. For a long time, though, I used a cheapie Chinee hammer crimper tool. It was awkward, but as long as I could take the wire out and lay it on the floor, the cheapie worked.
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