So what did you do with your truck today?

JAKRANCH

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that dear friends cam from my radiator. I am pulling the engine now tis a 7.3 idit with zf5.
Question, what have you guys found most efficient to remove to yank motor out? I'm hoping I can leave tranny attached and remove the hood and yank it without messing with the core support. What's y'all's favorite way?
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'm hoping I can leave tranny attached and remove the hood and yank it without messing with the core support.
If you mean leaving the transmission attached to the engine, that won't work unless you have something like a crane. Not an engine crane either. I remove the hood, leave the transmission in the truck, and remove the engine. Anything else is a waste of time to me unless you have to do something like repair the core support or replace body mounts.
 

JAKRANCH

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If you mean leaving the transmission attached to the engine, that won't work unless you have something like a crane. Not an engine crane either. I remove the hood, leave the transmission in the truck, and remove the engine. Anything else is a waste of time to me unless you have to do something like repair the core support or replace body mounts.
Is that because an engine crane won't lift high enough?
 

Danielle

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Got the wiring in the e450 bus for the electric fuel pump finished, next is fuel lines. I'm hoping this at the very least helps me prime it to get it running, as it wasn't abandoned due to no start but due to not being needed. We shall see I guess haha
 

IDIBRONCO

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Is that because an engine crane won't lift high enough?
Yes. If you only remove the hood, you'll have to have the engine and transmission hanging vertically in order to get them out. They are very long together. If you measure them, I'll bet that they'll be close to 6' long. Maybe more.
 

bulletpruf

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Checked bores for taper and out of round. Ran through it quickly and now I have some measurements that appear to be just out of spec, so I'm re-doing it tomorrow.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Today was supposed to be clean out the garage day which kind of extended to the storage shed as well. I also found out last Monday evening that the power steering had a bad leak. You know that it's a bad leak when you're getting oil spots on the driver's door that weren't there before. I wanted to fix that today too. After I get back from Texas, I'm going to buy a Red Head steering box since mine is out of adjustment. They recommend new power steering lines. I'm also planning to order a new/reman power steering pump and probably the steel cooler that runs along the crossmember to have a whole new system. I really didn't want to buy a reman pump and then turn around and buy another one in another month or so. I did happen to have an extra one sitting around from a red truck that I bough a couple of years ago just for parts. I thought that it had to be better than what was on there. I finally got it swapped out and it sure worked better. I shut off the engine and looked at the pump to see that same type of oil leak that had been coming from the other pump. Then I realized that it wasn't from the pump, the high pressure line appears to be bad. If you look closely at it, you can see a deformation in the rubber part where it looks like the crimp is no longer holding. I guess I get to do it again tomorrow. At least it's not a lot of extra bolt turning for me. The pump that was on the truck did need to be replaced. I grabbed the pulley and it has about 1/2" of in and out play in it so the pump was probably almost done for anyway.
 

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TygreII

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I'm replacing the waterpump (done) and I figured as long as I have everything off, I might as well replace some other things.

The fuel lift pump was leaking back bad, so that got replaced. After two days of searching and talking to people, I found that the difference in the actuator arm is OK.

Then out comes the thermostat. Fine. I got everything cleaned up and brushed off. On goes that part. I get the alternator and vacuum pump on and start filling. 4 gallons in and it starts peeing from somewhere. A flashlight and some poking around and find that the thermostat housing is leaking. I pull everything back off including the thermostat. It looked like the thing slipped down while I was putting it on. Back on it goes with some Ultra Black. Cinched it down and let it sit overnight to set up. Filling it to the 4 gallon mark, peeing worse than before. (insert long string of swear words here.) I had the for thought this time not to put the Alt and Vac back on yet.

The housing comes back off a third time. This time I brought a bright light in ahd wire brushed it to clean shiny metal. I noticed a small ridge cut into the block that the thermostat fits into without the rubber ring it came with. OK, maybe I did a stupid before and assumed that the rubber stays on. This time thermostat, a little Ultra Black, and a new gasket. Let it setup and cinched it down and let it sit onernight.

I come back this AM and start filling. This time it is only seeping out.

Did I miss something?
 

IDIBRONCO

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To finish this part of my power steering saga, I got it fixed today. I grabbed another used high pressure line. After forgetting how much fun this is to replace at the steering box, I definitely have to give Cubey two thumbs up for doing that to his RV a couple of years ago in a parking lot or campground somewhere. After I got the line off of the truck, I think that I was wrong about where it was leaking. Although it does looks like the crimp had let the hose slip, I'm pretty sure that the hose had just rubbed through on the power steering pump. I finally got it all done and it works great. It actually feels like a Ford truck from this era instead of a front wheel drive car. No more new puddles in my driveway and, after I wash it again, no more oil spots that mysteriously appear along the driver's side.
Happy trails until I get to install a Red Head and all of the other new parts.
 

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hacked89

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To finish this part of my power steering saga, I got it fixed today. I grabbed another used high pressure line. After forgetting how much fun this is to replace at the steering box, I definitely have to give Cubey two thumbs up for doing that to his RV a couple of years ago in a parking lot or campground somewhere. After I got the line off of the truck, I think that I was wrong about where it was leaking. Although it does looks like the crimp had let the hose slip, I'm pretty sure that the hose had just rubbed through on the power steering pump. I finally got it all done and it works great. It actually feels like a Ford truck from this era instead of a front wheel drive car. No more new puddles in my driveway and, after I wash it again, no more oil spots that mysteriously appear along the driver's side.
Happy trails until I get to install a Red Head and all of the other new parts.

It’s power steering month around here
 

Old Goat

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For me it was no Brakee day, that was fun

Last week 2/05 I had to go to Fernley, Nv. to meet a friend for Lunch.
Everything here in Nevada is a long ways for some where else. In between is a lot of nothing.
We are 67 miles south of Reno, and 25 miles south of Carson City.
Had to go to Carson on 395, then to Hwy 50 east through Mound House, Silver Springs and Stage Coach. Then onto 95 north to Fernley, which is 76 miles from home.

After lunch, get on I-80 west to Sparks, Nv. which is next to Reno. Stopped at Scheels to see if they had Ammo for my Bazooka, Rocket Launcher, etc... but were out of stock.....LOL

Up to this point the Brakes were working great.
leave Scheels, weave through the idiots in the parking lot to the red light. Hit the Brakes and nothing...no vacuum. Luckly I was I was poking along in 3rd gear, and had just enough to bring her to a stop.
Light changes and make the right turn, then the ramp onto I-80 west to Reno. There is no traffic, usually 18 wheelers, people cutting you off, shootin at ea other etc.... It`s a friendly bunch.

About 2 miles down to the split to 380/N 580/S, We head south to Carson, this split is usually also backed up but was a straight shot down under the Free Way up the other side to 580, and no traffic there either...strange...very light. get down to the south side of Reno,, maybe 5 miles to Exit 29 (that is where In-N-Out Burger is if in the area) to Virginia St. south, light is green, and no traffic their either. 1/4 mile down we stop at Winco Foods. open Hood, no vac belt, and pump is hanging on by one bolt that was about to drop out. OH Great!. Tighten bolt, and do our shopping.

Stayed on Virginia St. which is the old 4 lane hwy south through Washoe valley. This way avoided the 580 bypass. probably 5 miles and maybe 2 cars.
Finally had to get back on 580 past Washoe Lake to Carson City. Get to the south end of carson, and turn south on 395 for home. The traffic the last 25 miles was light. Not normal.

We really think the lord was watching over us, getting us home.

Called NAPA for a gates green Stripe, gave them the belt #. $45, but will have it next week.
Call O`really`s, think I woke the guy up. Didn`t have it, but master Craft is just as good...Thanks.

Go on line to their webb site and order it, be here next day. $31.
Pick it up, and brought the one bolt I had, and picked up a package of 6 new ones.

When i changed the Vac Pump last Summer, i used Anti-Seiz on the Bolts.
You better believe I used Blue lock-Tite this time.

I went on Rock Auto, ordered a full set of green Stripes for my 85 f250, and one Alt, and one power Steering for the 86 so it will have a new set.
Think the vac belt was about $13...lots of mark up on things.

Lat time I put belts on the 86 was 8 yrs ago when we bought it, and they were Green Stripes.
Was thinking about changing them, this just speeded up things.

You would think, that when loosing vacuum, you would at least have manual Brakes. just have to push a bit harder.
I was at the ready to use the parking Brakes if I had to.


Goat
 

Old Goat

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Next morning after replacing the Vac Belt, turned key to start, and Click, Click Click.
First thing checked batteries with a DVM, they are ok.
Turn key again, Click, Click and she starts.

Picked up a Starter Relay at O`Really`s, install it, and then look at the battery Connections. not corroded but the Copper Ring terminals are black and dirty looking, not clean Copper.

Used some fine Wet Dry sand paper, cleaned both battery connections, and the ones to the Starter Relay and GP Relay. Used some Dialectric grease to coat the copper connections, and buttoned her up.
Maybe it was the new Starter Relay, or polishing up The Ring terminals, but she seems to start easier/quicker. Or wishful thinking?


Goat
 

chillman88

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Next morning after replacing the Vac Belt, turned key to start, and Click, Click Click.
First thing checked batteries with a DVM, they are ok.
Turn key again, Click, Click and she starts.

Picked up a Starter Relay at O`Really`s, install it, and then look at the battery Connections. not corroded but the Copper Ring terminals are black and dirty looking, not clean Copper.

Used some fine Wet Dry sand paper, cleaned both battery connections, and the ones to the Starter Relay and GP Relay. Used some Dialectric grease to coat the copper connections, and buttoned her up.
Maybe it was the new Starter Relay, or polishing up The Ring terminals, but she seems to start easier/quicker. Or wishful thinking?


Goat

Sounds to me like she was just jealous and wanted some attention for valentine's day hahahaha
 

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