Just so everyone knows the proper way to use it.....
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So what did you do with your truck today?
- Thread starter GOOSE
- Start date
I see a lot more belts being worn in garages from now on...
Therkhan7_3Turbo
Full Access Member
75-80% is pretty decent for a old F250... Surprised you can even feel anything, mine the front wheels haven't been balanced in ages and still butter smooth at 80mph... except for the fact the motor is spinning extremely fast.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I wanted to get the rear main seal replaced in my engine along with a new crank repair sleeve, but that didn't happen. A guy stopped by and wanted to talk for quite a while. I did manage to get the driver's side fender slid forward again so that the door would open without hitting it (damn deer!). I pounded the bent part of the door back in somewhat so at least it doesn't stick out quite as bad as it did. I've been working on a way to remote mount the CDR so that it isn't on the engine any more (more to come on that in the future). I also managed to get my modified valve cover primed and painted. I'm going to be installing a first gen Banks without the huge, restrictive air box. I'll be pulling the crankcase gasses out through the driver's side valve cover. I'm going to mount the CDR on the intake. In order to try to cut down on oil being sucked into the the intake through the CDR, I wanted to put a baffle under the valve cover to keep the oil splash out. I have a valve cover from an ATS turbo application. I was going to use this, but the bottom part of the hose stuck through the valve cover too far. The baffle would hit the rocker arms and have about 1/4" gap between the valve cover and the head so I had to come up with a different idea. Here's some pictures of attempt #1-the failure.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
On to attempt #2 and success. The part of the CDR where the hose attaches on the bottom is 1 inch. I'm going to use 1" fuel line to connect it to the valve cover. At work, we have some 1 1/16" OD 1/8 wall pipe. I took a short piece of scrap and made several slices in it most of the way through so that I could bend it easily. When I got the bend that I wanted, I cut it to an overall length that looked good and welded the cuts closed. I was going to get fancy and really smooth it up, but I just hit it with a grinder and it came out pretty darn good for not trying so I left it. Then I took an extra N/A valve cover and drilled a 3/4" hole in the flat spot on top toward the front. Then I took it to work this morning and welded the pipe to the top. My welds looked OK after cleaning up most of the spatter so I left it at that. There was one pin hole that I had to go back and fill in after the welds had cooled so it doesn't look great, but paint hides a lot. The smaller baffle that I was able to put in this one let it sit down on the head without a gasket so it will clear the rockers (yes I did turn the engine over by hand to check). Here's a few pictures of the ugly product.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Here's a few pictures of the finished product all ready to install tomorrow. I decided to let it sit overnight to let the paint cure. I slid the 1" fuel line over the fitting and it went like it was made to go over it. The fuel line was red when I bought it, but I painted it flat black so that it wouldn't look so freaking ugly.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I've done this before and it works, but it's not real great. It's hard to find ether that's good enough quality to "explode" the tire onto the bead, It doesn't seem to stay potent for a very long time, plus a little bit of wind and it doesn't work so I bought this. It was $69.95 shipped on Amazon Prime. Next payday, I'm also going to buy one of those "slide hammer) bead breakers (for lack of a better term) on Amazon Prime for about $60. The bead breaker that I have now works great, but I've wanted one of those for YEARS and I'm not going to bypass this deal now that I've found it.nice, i am still at the starting fluid trick when i need to here and there
i have had to reinforce the bead breaker on my manual changer, mine is just a $50 one from tractor supply. i kept bending the lip that breaks the actual bead. i ended up cutting out some 3/16 angle iron and spreading it and shaping with a press and sledge hammer it to replace that part. it does not bend on me any more
pafixitman
Registered User
Tell me about it...in the last 60 days...
4 Toyo's for the Subaru
4 BFG Advantage T/A for Erica's dd
4 Michelin's for my dd
4 Milestar Grantlands for the truck
My last set of bfgs took out a bedside on our 80k mile 97 when they were a year and a half old, I hope they have fixed the issues with the compound since then, but I won’t buy them again.
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WOW, that would suck! Sure hope I have better luck.
compressionignitionrules
Full Access Member
sold it, delivering it. ( 91 C350 4x4 7.3 banks turbo E4OD )
had it 7 yrs and never even got started on a resto. no time, new owner is in love> all he ever saw were C150s and they don't come diesel.
had it 7 yrs and never even got started on a resto. no time, new owner is in love> all he ever saw were C150s and they don't come diesel.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Today, I helped Cubey replace the thermostat and fan clutch on his RV. I only supervised while he bypassed his FSV. The only thing that I did to my truck today was to remove the exhaust manifolds. Yesterday, my 81 F150 ate a head gasket.
It started slightly missing when cold, at and right above an isle. Then it started running on only 7 cylinders. Next, it started burning coolant. I was DETERMINED to drive it the 15 miles over to my garage. I had to stop 4 times to give the engine somewhat of a break. Even if there isn't a cracked head by now, as hot as I got it, I know the engine isn't good anymore. Salvageable? Possibly, but not with out a complete overhaul. ON my mechanical temp gauge, the numbers stop at 250, but the needle doesn't. It went to what must have been at least 300. So I need my diesel back ASAP, actually, yesterday would have been great. So now, I have to put it all back together N/A because there isn't time for customization for a turbo install.
I pulled the manifolds back off so that I can reinstall the headers. I don't have any exhaust to mate up to the manifolds so back to the headers it is.
I did ride a four wheeler back home from the garage last night. that wasn't the worst way to get back home. At least I still have the motorcycle to ride.
It started slightly missing when cold, at and right above an isle. Then it started running on only 7 cylinders. Next, it started burning coolant. I was DETERMINED to drive it the 15 miles over to my garage. I had to stop 4 times to give the engine somewhat of a break. Even if there isn't a cracked head by now, as hot as I got it, I know the engine isn't good anymore. Salvageable? Possibly, but not with out a complete overhaul. ON my mechanical temp gauge, the numbers stop at 250, but the needle doesn't. It went to what must have been at least 300. So I need my diesel back ASAP, actually, yesterday would have been great. So now, I have to put it all back together N/A because there isn't time for customization for a turbo install. I pulled the manifolds back off so that I can reinstall the headers. I don't have any exhaust to mate up to the manifolds so back to the headers it is. I did ride a four wheeler back home from the garage last night. that wasn't the worst way to get back home. At least I still have the motorcycle to ride.
ocnorb
IDIT
Hauled scrap to the recycler.
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