Should I switch to synthetic?

[03wr250f]

I run synthetic oil in everything, except for my wifes 98 5.4 triton. she likes to use napa 5-30 in her baby so thats what it gets
In my idi delo 5-40. I tried switching back to conventional once, and never again. I noticed harder starts on summer days compared to the synthetic. That was enough to sell me on going back to synthetic. I run about 5-7K miles on my idi before I change it. Whatever works out to about a year, because that is about the miles that get put on it.
My 91 honda accord, with 250K ish on it and 5-30 mobil1 burns about a qt between 7500 mile oil changes. I have only ran synthetics in it since I got it(200K ish), so I dont know any different. Most honda owners say with synthetics they burn between 1-2 qts on synthetic
wifes 2010 hyundai elantra same bag of chips mobil 1 5-30 and I love it. done me well
The way I figure it, if i can make the engine work less hard to pump it, move it around, cause less parasitic draw (thinner oil) and make it better lubricated then by golly it is worth it for the cost over conventional. I want my engines to be as healthy as possible, so I will buy oil to help that.
and my only complaint with rotella that i have heard over and over is oil consumption because they changed the formula like 5-6 years ago.

 

[79jasper]

(Rotella T6)
Seems like a lot of engines burn it.
And 9 out of 10 7.3/6.0 powerstrokes hate it. Still no rhyme or reason to it. Some say theirs runs fine with it, but I wonder what they would see if they switched to another brand?


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[david85]

(Rotella T6)
Seems like a lot of engines burn it.
And 9 out of 10 7.3/6.0 powerstrokes hate it. Still no rhyme or reason to it. Some say theirs runs fine with it, but I wonder what they would see if they switched to another brand?


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I'm wondering that as well. So by hate it, how (besides consumption) are these engines reacting negatively to it? Right now, I do have what sounds like a lifter clack, but between the restoration (missing insulation), new injectors, and simply not being used to the truck anymore, I can't be sure if I'm just being paranoid.

 

[compressionignitionrules]

(Rotella T6)
Seems like a lot of engines burn it.
And 9 out of 10 7.3/6.0 powerstrokes hate it. Still no rhyme or reason to it. Some say theirs runs fine with it, but I wonder what they would see if they switched to another brand?


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I've used the T6 a few winters and it does burn up more but not bad. the standard rotella t 15/40 will use 1-2 litres every 10,000 km service interval while the T6 synthetic will use 3-5 litres in the same interval . I wouldn't consider that excessive, my cold starts are so much improved with my high mile (545,000km) 7.3 powerstroke its forgotten .

the idi engines don't need the same cranking speed for oil pressure buildup.

 

[79jasper]

Far as the idi, I can't say.
I'm just going off of psd "knowledge." Some old codgers still swear by t6. Lol
In my idi, I started off running valvoline premium blue dino. Might have started running it back in my psd when I first got it. But then switched to the traveller oil, then went to lubrication engineers 8800. I can't go backwards, I'll spend the money. Lol
I do push my changes out, now that I'm in a 6.0, we'll see how that works out. Lol do plan on building a bypass system.
By it a psd can get x amount of miles on x oil, the idi should be able to double that. (Both engines in good condition, with OA'S)

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[nelstomlinson]

(Rotella T6)
Seems like a lot of engines burn it.
And 9 out of 10 7.3/6.0 powerstrokes hate it. Still no rhyme or reason to it. Some say theirs runs fine with it, but I wonder what they would see if they switched to another brand?

I use the Rotella T4 in my powersmoke and my IDI in the summer, and the T6 in them in the winter for easier starting. I don't see any problems with either.

 

[chris142]

I tried synthetic in mine. It drank it so fast it wasnt even funny. Plus your enging should run forever on any 15w40 diesel oil.

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I ran my 7.3 IDI (with 375K miles) on Rotella full synthetic while the motor was in the truck (50K miles before the Cummins swap). In the beginning the oil would come out of the motor black as night with all the crap suspended in it. When I dumped the last change the oil was almost as clean as new after 4K miles including towing from IN to eastern NJ and back. I did reseal the oil cooler (O-rings were baked and leaking) and replace the rear main seal (part of a clutch job). I was happy with running full synthetic in the 7.3. It definitely flowed better in the winter. It did not make a difference in fuel economy (I didn't use synthetic for that - I wanted the resistance to breakdown while towing in the summer and easier flowing in the winter). I used a MotorCraft oil filter from the dealer too FWIW.

Nick

 

[red41neck]

My 2001 7.3 SD 4X4 has just over 220,000 and still does not use oil between 5000 mile oil changes. Have always used 15-40 Rotella dino.
I can always tell I'm getting near time to change oil because the 7.3 will start to rattle a bit. Change oil and it quiets right down. Either the oil is
wearing out or the blow by from compression is thinning the oil. If it's the blow by, it seems changing oil beyond 5000 would not be a good idea.

 

[david85]

Well crap. I can't seem to find a supplier in my neck of the woods who sells Delo. Local parts store carries a line called Motul, but I haven't heard of that one before.

I didn't ask about shell T6 though. Might have to give that a look while I'm at it.

 

[trackspeeder]

Far as the idi, I can't say.
I'm just going off of psd "knowledge." Some old codgers still swear by t6. Lol
In my idi, I started off running valvoline premium blue dino. Might have started running it back in my psd when I first got it. But then switched to the traveller oil, then went to lubrication engineers 8800. I can't go backwards, I'll spend the money. Lol
I do push my changes out, now that I'm in a 6.0, we'll see how that works out. Lol do plan on building a bypass system.
By it a psd can get x amount of miles on x oil, the idi should be able to double that. (Both engines in good condition, with OA'S)

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I must be one of the old codgers.

My PSD and my little two cylinder IDI loves T6.

 

[Fixnstuff]

First, there is no doubt that TRUE synthetic oils made from synthetic base stocks significantly or substantially exceed the performance of oil made from conventional oil base stocks in every way that I am aware of. That's why TRUE synthetic oil is used in aircraft with conventional combustion engines and Jet engines.

BE AWARE that there are a number of motor oils labelled as 'FULL SYNTHETIC' WHICH ARE NOT MADE FROM SYNTHETIC OIL BASES, They are made from highly refined high quality conventional CRUDE OIL. Technically and scientifically speaking, these are NOT SYNTHETIC MOTOR OILS but after a law suit in 1999 these manufacturers are legally allowed to label them as FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil. The video inserted below will explain this to you as well as the FIVE groups of oil bases used to manufacture motor oil from the least expensive conventional motor oils through the best synthetic motor oils. It will also explain what to look for in choosing a TRUE synthetic motor oil

I do a LOT of research before I make decisions on what parts or components I will use in my truck including researching the manufacturers and their manufacturing processes as much as I am able to find online and I do thorough searches. I've decided to use TRUE synthetic oil in my truck Verses oil that is labelled "Full Synthetic" BUT IS NOT SYNTHETIC OIL. I'll explain my choices in a different post.

Here is the video It was posted in May 2014:

Understanding Synthetic Motor Oils And Why Most Full Synthetic Oils Are Petroleum Based

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I think that the key is to research what oil you want to use at the manufacturers' websites to determine what they are using as base stocks and look for one that is manufactured from SYNTHETIC BASE STOCKS and NOT highly refined conventional base stocks. "Conventional" base stocks mean conventional crude oil, called "highly refined, "the best" or whatever terms, it's still made from conventional crude oil, (the highest grade of crude oil as far as I am aware is called "Brent Crude". This information may or may not be on the product label.

By the way, I am not a chemist or an engineer, I just like to research and study technical, engineering and scientific things which I understand well due to my background and I have lots of spare time to do that where other people don't have as much time.

That being said, there are also several quality levels of Synthetic Motor Oils which I think is explained in the video. Generally speaking that's probably going to be a factor in the cost of the oil.

 

[Thatoneguy]

First, there is no doubt that TRUE synthetic oils made from synthetic base stocks significantly or substantially exceed the performance of oil made from conventional oil base stocks in every way that I am aware of. That's why TRUE synthetic oil is used in aircraft with conventional combustion engines and Jet engines.

BE AWARE that there are a number of motor oils labelled as 'FULL SYNTHETIC' WHICH ARE NOT MADE FROM SYNTHETIC OIL BASES, They are made from highly refined high quality conventional CRUDE OIL. Technically and scientifically speaking, these are NOT SYNTHETIC MOTOR OILS but after a law suit in 1999 these manufacturers are legally allowed to label them as FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil. The video inserted below will explain this to you as well as the FIVE groups of oil bases used to manufacture motor oil from the least expensive conventional motor oils through the best synthetic motor oils. It will also explain what to look for in choosing a TRUE synthetic motor oil

I do a LOT of research before I make decisions on what parts or components I will use in my truck including researching the manufacturers and their manufacturing processes as much as I am able to find online and I do thorough searches. I've decided to use TRUE synthetic oil in my truck Verses oil that is labelled "Full Synthetic" BUT IS NOT SYNTHETIC OIL. I'll explain my choices in a different post.

Here is the video It was posted in May 2014:

Understanding Synthetic Motor Oils And Why Most Full Synthetic Oils Are Petroleum Based

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

I think that the key is to research what oil you want to use at the manufacturers' websites to determine what they are using as base stocks and look for one that is manufactured from SYNTHETIC BASE STOCKS and NOT highly refined conventional base stocks. "Conventional" base stocks mean conventional crude oil, called "highly refined, "the best" or whatever terms, it's still made from conventional crude oil, (the highest grade of crude oil as far as I am aware is called "Brent Crude". This information may or may not be on the product label.

By the way, I am not a chemist or an engineer, I just like to research and study technical, engineering and scientific things which I understand well due to my background and I have lots of spare time to do that where other people don't have as much time.

That being said, there are also several quality levels of Synthetic Motor Oils which I think is explained in the video. Generally speaking that's probably going to be a factor in the cost of the oil.

I look forward to the post about your oil choices. What do you use in your IDI?

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[chris142]

Well crap. I can't seem to find a supplier in my neck of the woods who sells Delo. Local parts store carries a line called Motul, but I haven't heard of that one before.

I didn't ask about shell T6 though. Might have to give that a look while I'm at it.

Motul is a big player in street and dirt bikes. good stuff.

 

[david85]

Ok...looks like I'm even further back than I thought. His mention in the video could be a clue as to why some hate Shell T6 since a major revision a few years back. Sheesh, I knew there would be research but I'm almost thinking to just do a dino-oil change for now (the devil you know) then look for a good synthetic as time permits.