Should I Raise the Engine?

John Haggerty

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Brothers,

Yesterday, I finally reached into deep my pocket and changed my starter. I went with the NAPA $250 preminium rebuilt Mistu offset gear-reduction. What a difference! I can't wait for a cold morning to notice the real difference!

However while under her, I about reached the point where the oil leaks are bothering me too much. She leaks about 1/2 qt. per 2,500 miles, which I don't consider too bad. You can see in the pictures that the oil cooler leaks both front and rear. You can also see a single example of the oil pan gasket leaking (just one of many blow thrus).

I'll done oil pan gaskets on 300 I-6's before (jacking the engine from underneath), but obviously the IDI a different beast. How tough is it to change the oil pan gasket? What's the easiest approach to take? I figure that somehow while doing the oil pan gasket I'd do the oil cooler too.

Thanks,
John
 

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Exekiel69

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I remember Pete and others said many times not to use a gasket, not corck not rubber just good proper rtv and go on your way.
 

tbirdfiend281

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its personal preference, but ive heard the rtv tends to hold up better, and for the DI 7.3s alot of the gaskets are just an RTV bead....my oil cooler leaks a descent amount to, about the same as yours, guess there just prone to leaks
 

snatchal

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Where I live they use tons of salt on the roads. every vehicle from the 90's has got cancer. My idi leaks like a seive, mostly on the passenger side. When I bought it, I had the floor pan and rocker panel replaced on driver side and the truck repainted. The bodyman remarked that I should figure out a way to make it leak on the driver-side too. :D
 

Agnem

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John, I'd certainly wait for a nice summer day in any event.
 

flatlander

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I tried to pull the pan with the motor in. Don't. It won't come out.

But if you jack up the motor you should be able to get about an inch or 2 of clearance to replace the gasket. It won't be easy.
 

Magoo

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My personal favorite sealer for what its worth is "Aviation Gasket Sealer". Its like tar. There are three things in this world that oil leaks just seem to be excepted, Harleys, Detroits, and Volkswagons. I started using this aviation stuff years ago and was able to prevent 99% of the leakes after tear downs. The key for me was to ensure that both surfaces were 100% free of dirt and oil film. Carb cleaner works well as it dries clean. The sealer is a brush on type and I always paint so that the lines run opposite the the direction the oil would come from. Just my personal oppinion here.
 

obinella

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owned three Harley's at different times of my life,all would leak for a week after draining all the oil. don't get me wrong i loved em. worked part time at a triumph & beezer shop while in the military, (leaker's). they imported the first Honda 125 Bentley in to the USA. parked it on a white sheet to prove that it didn't leak. eng. by Kawasai. red line firc 13000
 

Magoo

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Im sorry if I hijacked this thread. Kinda got it off topic a bit. However the good points were made. Some things are just prone to leak right out the gate. If you rebuild something and it leaks when your done then its "your" fault. Even if it always leaked before. Thats why we tried everything over the years. To prevent unhappy customers. Thats why I use tha aviation goo. I will say this though. Its the hardest stuff to clean off if you have to tear it apart in the future. Lots of elbo grease. Let us know which route "you" choose and your results. Be nice to know.
 
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