Advice on engine

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

So..after seizing my 7.3 idit I picked one up for $650 bucks and a long drive. I got it home and have it hanging from a chain. I got it running on the chain and it’s puffing on the drivers side manifold..one big white puff when one of the cylinders fire as it idles. Other than that it runs smooth on the chain.

I drained the oil and I pulled the pan. The crankshaft where the two connecting rods mate is discolored on the crank itself..rainbow like over heating...are cranks like this from milling or has this motor been beat up before. It’s got a reman turbo, injection pump and injectors

The tranny that came attached dumped metallic goo out of the rear nothing close to red trans fluid.

I’m really hoping I didn’t just buy a pile of metal..I’ve been changing the gaskets before attempting an engine swap.

I’m having a hard time finding a idit to replace this and I’m getting close to just selling it all. I have little kids and hate to miss out on them for some oily mess. But if it just gets done I’ll keep plugging away.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I'd roll with it. And while you're rolling, put time, energy, and money in the original engine using it as a chance to show your kids what a engine does on the inside. Then swap it back, but that's just how I do things. It's kinda what I'm doing now.

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

How much do you think it’d cost to rebuild one of these at home? I know that depends on what’s wrong with mine..

What about the puffing smoke..could that just be timing?

Rainbow colored crankshaft flanges?
—perhaps it identifies as a gay-camshaft?

 

[Oldred]

If, all the connecting rod caps look the same across the whole engine. I would not worry about the crank. But since you have the pan off I would take a cap off and inspect a random bearing and crank journal. If it looks decent I would let it ride and investigate what seized on your original engine when you have time. Or better yet have the kiddos help you find out what went wrong.

 

[Jesus Freak]

How much do you think it’d cost to rebuild one of these at home? I know that depends on what’s wrong with mine..

What about the puffing smoke..could that just be timing?

Rainbow colored crankshaft flanges?
—perhaps it identifies as a gay-camshaft?

It really all depends. So either you do without a truck and "do it right" or you deal with a potentially smoking truck(could be timing, could be stuff cleaning out from sitting) and do the other motor. And as far as the rainbow? Who knows in these sad confused times we live in. But I'm with oldred on that, take a peek and take a chance.

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

I’ll just keep moving forward then. I’ll check out a bearing cap..

I noticed the rear intake manifold has rtv sticking out...there was a slight leak, after investigating I noticed the bolts were all loose. I’d rather not pull the turbo and injector lines...could I clean it up and squeeze some sealant into the crack in the photo? Maybe it’s not needed after tightening it all up.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I’ll just keep moving forward then. I’ll check out a bearing cap..

I noticed the rear intake manifold has rtv sticking out...there was a slight leak, after investigating I noticed the bolts were all loose. I’d rather not pull the turbo and injector lines...could I clean it up and squeeze some sealant into the crack in the photo? Maybe it’s not needed after tightening it all up.

That's what I'd do, I mean you're just buying time and you proved that it will run.
You said that your original engine is "locked up". Have you heard about cavitation yet? It's somewhat common on the 7.3idi motors, I lost a motor to cavitation a couple years ago (excuse me....I'm crying) . But learn about it and treat your cooling system to protect against it.

 

[Old Goat]

If your 7.3 has a cavitation problem, you can always sleeve the problem cylinder.


Goat

 

[Jesus Freak]

If your 7.3 has a cavitation problem, you can always sleeve the problem cylinder.


Goat

That's the plan. But I'm "buying time" driving on a different motor now. My hope is to sleeve all 8 cylinders and be done.

 

[Farmer Rock]

That's the plan. But I'm "buying time" driving on a different motor now. My hope is to sleeve all 8 cylinders and be done.

Why not just build a 6.9 in that case? Sleeving all 8 won't be cheap..


Rock

 

[FrozenMerc]

How much do you think it’d cost to rebuild one of these at home? I know that depends on what’s wrong with mine..

I just finished rebuilding one. I started with a 6.9 that had the valley pan gasket let go and dumped a bunch of coolant into the oil pan. I figured a basic re-ring job and I would be good to go as the motor only had about 120K on it. The Master Rebuild kit (gaskets, bearings, rings, pistons) was about $1500, add in my time and all the other little stuff (new paint, hardware, etc,) and I figured it would cost me about $2,000 to $2,500 to rebuild the motor with no machine work.

Of course, that plan went out the window when I found the #4 Main bearing saddle had cracked and the 6.9 block was now a boat anchor. I ended up doing a FULL rebuild. 7.3 Junk yard block, needed machine work. Rebalanced the 6.9 crank to accept the heavier 7.3 pistons, and replaced or rebuilt everything else. New Clutch, exhaust manifolds, head studs, etc. I reground the camshaft and put in new lifters. I didn't get very deep into the heads, just new springs and seals, and resurfaced the exhaust manifold flange. Lapped the valves, the guides were still in good shape. I also didn't touch the turbo as it only had about a year's worth of time on it, and the bearings were not damaged by the coolant. I reused my injection pump, it was only 5 years old, but did put new injectors and lines on. Overall, I am probably about $8,000 into the build, give or take few hundred bucks, I honestly haven't added it all up, and probably won't. It doesn't matter, this motor is good to go for another 200,000 miles. And $8K spent over the past 9 months is alot less than what the payments would have been on a $75,000 201X Ford F350 over the same time period, and god forbid something goes wrong with the 6.7 in one of those newer trucks.

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[94turbocrewcab-lb]

Is this the rear main seal I’ll need?

1994 FORD F-350 7.3L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged Crankshaft Main Bearing Gasket | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[FrozenMerc]

Looks right to me. Be careful not to tear the oil pan gasket when you pop the back cover off to replace the main seal, or else you will get to replace that as well.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I'm with @FrozenMerc on that. I think you already have the pan off though. And I do have the original 6.9 out of my truck. It's a "dealer diesel" bored .030 over. I'm planning on doing it first and then my cavitated 7.3, not sure exactly how I'll handle the 7.3 but when I get around to it, I want to do it right. I'm a man with options, bidind my time.

 

[94turbocrewcab-lb]

You guys think the one puffing cylinder could be timing? Does it effect these trucks that much? Or like Jesus freak said..maybe it’s just junk working it’s way out