Serpentine Belt Idler

icanfixall

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Ask this question earlier about the metal idler pulley from Napa... They have no idea. Anyone got the part number so I can get one for the spare that rides behind the rear seat??? Thanks...
 

Fozz

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Try these....

w/ Leece Neville Alternator NBH 25061130 $66.99

Drivebelt Tensioner Assy NBH 38123 $64.99

Drivebelt Tensioner Pulley w/ Serpentine Belt Drive TEM 209766 $21.49

Drivebelt Tensioner Pulley Serpentine NBH 38006 $22.49

Drivebelt Idler Pulley TEM 209842 $18.49

Drivebelt Idler Pulley Smooth NBH 38015 $26.99
 

Fozz

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Checked my old parts, and I don't have my old idler pulley box. I checked my tensioner, and it's the 38123. Maybe Napa can match the idler to that application (mine's a 92).
 

icanfixall

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Is your tensioner the one with the shock absorber on it.. And are you running a metal idler pulley... Napa showed me a spot welded 2 piece metal idler that didn't look very strong or hearty. I passed on that one... I have the shock type tensioner setup.
 

OLDBULL8

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Changed my belt drive over to the serpentine on the 88 motor I'm installing in the 92 F350. The belt want's to run off about a 1/4" towards the front, changed the location of the WP pulley (pressed it on further 3/16") made it a whole lot worse, belt would climb right off the WP pulley, put it back to original location. Sometime back in a post someone said NAPA had a metal idler, mine is the plastic one, couldn't find the post, but thought they said (maybe RLDSL) that it was for an 84 Chevy. Anyone know? I have the spring loaded idler. icanfixall , what was the NAPA number ? Maybe I'll try one.

FOZZ are those NAPA numbers you have listed?
 

icanfixall

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Oldbull... My tensioner with the shock absorber is a Ford item part number F4TZ-6B209-C.... They are expensive but... There is one on Ebay for $29.00 plus shipping... Don't have the Ebay number yet but may later. The seller is in Texas.... Also has the spring type tensioner for a good price. I think it was 16 or 19 dollars.
 

Fozz

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Yes, those are Napa #s. My tensioner is the spring-type (no shock absorber), but it is a metal pulley. My idler pulley is also Napa, but it has a plastic pulley. My experience has been that the plastic tensioner pulley wears (rounds off) and will eventually start throwing belts forward. I've never had a wear issue with the plastic idler. That said, I do end up buying a new belt about every other year (stretches and starts making noise). And I think I've been replacing the tensioner and idler about every 3 - 4 years.
 

OLDBULL8

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My spring loaded idler causes the belt to move forward almost forcing the belt to come off the WP pulley. The shaft or whatever on the spring is worn, I can move it up and down about a 1/4" causing it to lean down with belt tension on it. The marking on the spring retainer says to check the manual before disconnecting. Is there a preload on the spring ? Never had one off. What precautions should I take when removing ?

Oldbull... My tensioner with the shock absorber is a Ford item part number F4TZ-6B209-C.... They are expensive but... There is one on Ebay for $29.00 plus shipping... Don't have the Ebay number yet but may later. The seller is in Texas.... Also has the spring type tensioner for a good price. I think it was 16 or 19 dollars.

Thanks Ican. I'll check Ebay and see if I can find it. Does the shock absorber type readily replace the spring type ?
 

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"The shaft or whatever on the spring is worn, I can move it up and down about a 1/4" causing it to lean down with belt tension on it." I think that's your problem. I'll double-check mine tomorrow, but I'm almost sure there shouldn't be any play in it. Also, if you have the plastic pulley, and the edges of it are rounding, that is a problem (Napa has a metal pulley that won't 'round'). Yes, there is preload on the tensioner. It should always have firm pressure on your belt. If your tensioner is worn (spring-wise), you might be able to compress it with your hand, and then slip your belt off at the alternator. If the tension is too much, you might need to use a small crowbar. But be carefull not to crush your belt too much (you'll understand what I'm saying when you try it). My belt size is such that my tensioner rides at half of it's full travel. When I first bought my truck, it took me a few tries on the belt size to get the optimum set-up. There are about 3 belt sizes that are 1/2 inch increments to choose from. Hope this helps, if not let me know.
 

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I wound up getting Part number 89006 Dayco 90mm flat Steel without flange, from Advance. This is the lower large 3 1/2" one.

For finding an unknown idler, I found it's pretty easy, just go to the parts store and ask to dig through the boxes. They only carry about a dozen actual different idler pulley wheels, and between them they fit just about everything made, so it's not hard to match one up.
 

OLDBULL8

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[My spring loaded idler causes the belt to move forward almost forcing the belt to come off the WP pulley. The shaft or whatever on the spring is worn, I can move it up and down about a 1/4" causing it to lean down with belt tension on it. The marking on the spring retainer says to check the manual before disconnecting. Is there a preload on the spring ? Never had one off. What precautions should I take when removing ?
/QUOTE]

Up date: Took the tensioner off today, no problem getting it off, the spring is caught by a lip on the casting. What I found was the bearing's had worn and the shoulder bolt had worn very little at the head. The bearing's look like copper tubing and only 1/32" thick, 9/16" X 5/8" OD. Cut them out. Lo and behold there laying on the bench was a nylon tube 1/2" X 5/8" X 2" , reamed it out to 9/16" put it on the shoulder bolt and pressed it in. Reinstalled the tensioner and belt. Runs just perfect now. By the way the idler on it is a flat plastic one. The bolt that holds the idler on is a LEFT HAND thread . Will see how long it will last now.
Thanks Guy's for all the info.
Bill
 

dank1945

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Hi,
My belt tensioner is completely busted, and chewed my 1 month old belt with it. Funny I never detected a problem when I replaced it.
How is the belt tensioner assembly removed? Do I need to remove the idler pulley below it first, and if so, is the allen head bolt that holds the idler pulley a left hand thread for sure? I can't seem to be able to loosen it up.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Dan
'94 F350 CC 4x4 7.3L IDI
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Neither the shock or spring only type tensioners are very good. I have had the housing crack where the spring rests on the shock absorber type, and the spring only style just explode around the bolt, both within a year of installation. I have had both fail, but I think the shock absorber one is better as (in theory) it should dampen the vibration, which in my opinion is what destroys them. I think putting your spare old belt and a tensioner behind the seat is a great idea as these are wearable parts.
 

icanfixall

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I was told by Towcat that if the idler is boucing up and down its the vacuum pump pulley being bent. replacing it will make things right again. Ford still sells them and they are not expensive at all. I installed a new one on my truck when I changed over to the serpentine belt setup and put the old one behind the rear seat as a spare. Aslo bought a new one ... Just in case.. Both are behind the rear seat.....:sly:D
 

Mr. Steve

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Hey folks,

I am a newbie to fords, diesels, and to this site.

After having the benefit of reading this site I decided to buy the 7.3 IDI

She's a southern bell, that's been jellyed up with a banks turbo.
She's a big girl, with a big ****, being a crew cab dually.

The fiberglass cap rounds out her behind quite nicely, and hides her appetite as well, as it is she's got 65 gallons of additional space in her bed to keep Mr. Reese company on the road.

I suspect her full length running boards will keep her undies from buggering up here in New England.

At 11/93 she's about the youngest IDI to be had, and with 212 on her I'm hopin' she has a little bounce left in her 410 step.

On the 75 mile journey to her new home she melted her idler pully right down to the sheave. I'll be damned if I can get the thing off.

Following the direction of the s belt, my best guess would be a left hand thread. Would any of you old salts mind helping out my fat bottomed girl?
She did get me home after all, but to tell you the truth I cant see how.
I think she likes me.

BTW I'm a body man, frame tech, with twenty years in. Anything you need, I know it, you know it.

Thanx for doin' what you do

Agape, Mr. Steve
 
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