I don't see a direct tutorial for 93 dash removal to access the wiring to fix a no light issue, but I'm still searching for it.
How badly do I not want to touch this antique plastic?
How badly do I not want to touch this antique plastic?
School me on obs dash
- Thread starter Clb
- Start date
I don't have the body section of the fsm. So I'm headed to you tube university to see how it might come out, so I can get it right and not break an almost perfect one...
While this is out, I am going to mod the oil pressure gage, anything else I should look at?
Ok I swear I saw it here....
Anyone recall seeing the mod for oil pressure sender and gage mod on here?
It's making the factory idiot lamp into a mechanical needle...
Anyone recall seeing the mod for oil pressure sender and gage mod on here?
It's making the factory idiot lamp into a mechanical needle...
offroad-anarchy
Registered User
I've replaced my cluster, lights, tach and psom into a new cluster. Had the thing apart about 3 or 4 times.
I thought the plastic pieces that hid the screws were super simple to get off. Slot on the under side of each that you use a flat screw driver to gently pry them out from the bottom.
I then used some Rust-Oleum Black Stainless steel spray paint to make them look super sharp again. You have to do super thin coats though. My 93 XLT ones have some sort of wrap on them from the factory to get the look they had. If you do a thick coat the solvent in the lacquer paint bubbles up the wrap. Go slow when you repaint and they will look great.
From there you have to gently pull the bezel straight out toward you. It uses some felt covered 'barb' to hold it in around the top edge above the instrument cluster. They are heat staked to the back of the bezel and will most likely break off when pulling it apart the first time. I found a screw that I used to screw them back into the boss where the heat stake broke off. I had to find some extra barbs from a junk yard to get mine all back together.
I thought the plastic pieces that hid the screws were super simple to get off. Slot on the under side of each that you use a flat screw driver to gently pry them out from the bottom.
I then used some Rust-Oleum Black Stainless steel spray paint to make them look super sharp again. You have to do super thin coats though. My 93 XLT ones have some sort of wrap on them from the factory to get the look they had. If you do a thick coat the solvent in the lacquer paint bubbles up the wrap. Go slow when you repaint and they will look great.
From there you have to gently pull the bezel straight out toward you. It uses some felt covered 'barb' to hold it in around the top edge above the instrument cluster. They are heat staked to the back of the bezel and will most likely break off when pulling it apart the first time. I found a screw that I used to screw them back into the boss where the heat stake broke off. I had to find some extra barbs from a junk yard to get mine all back together.
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offroad-anarchy
Registered User
My original cluster had gotten wet and the electronics in it were corroded and lots of stuff didn't seem to be working. I bought a used one off car-part.com and it turned out to be pretty decent. I swapped my clear front and psom into it and added a set of AUXITO LED bulbs for all the gauges.
If you ever have to take the cluster apart, you start by pulling the right tach piece out first, then the center speedo then the left side gauges. They kind of go over each other from left to right.
If you need any other ideas, let me know. Might not be remembering all that I did in there, but it seemed to be pretty straight forward once you get the lights knob off and the wires unhooked off the back of it
Cheers, Pete
If you ever have to take the cluster apart, you start by pulling the right tach piece out first, then the center speedo then the left side gauges. They kind of go over each other from left to right.
If you need any other ideas, let me know. Might not be remembering all that I did in there, but it seemed to be pretty straight forward once you get the lights knob off and the wires unhooked off the back of it
Cheers, Pete
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So
Doesn't the stroke use super high oil pressure to run the injectors? Or is the oil pressure sender in the video for the engine only?
Seems like that would not work out and read low???
Doesn't the stroke use super high oil pressure to run the injectors? Or is the oil pressure sender in the video for the engine only?
Seems like that would not work out and read low???
so a bullnose had a real oil pressure gage as I recall is that right?
if so that sender should be a better fit for this mod don't you guys agree?
only issue would be the thread pitch and fitting the 7.3 sender location, any input?
tia
looks like the lpop sender is real close to the same range as the 6.9 -7.3 ...
if so that sender should be a better fit for this mod don't you guys agree?
only issue would be the thread pitch and fitting the 7.3 sender location, any input?
tia
looks like the lpop sender is real close to the same range as the 6.9 -7.3 ...
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Oh yeah..... the tuna can or the fuel filter?
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