Reworking a Steel 55 Gallon Drum - need advice

mankypro

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Ok. I'm looking to cut a 6"-10" hole in the top of my "dirty" 55 gallon drum - Clearly the best way is a cutting torch, but I do not have access to one. Would a 4" grinder be a close second? Any ideas?

Additionally was thinking of securing a 1" steel pipe 6" form the bottom as my outflow - was thinking of using jb weld for this since I have no welder. Do this just sound like a terrible idea? If anyone has a suggestion on how to tackle this for someone who is cutting/welding torch impaired I'd love to hear from you!

p.s. also want to put a drain at the botton near the lip to drain out water/antifreeze.
 

Full Monte

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Be careful with "dirty" 55 gal drums. More than one guy has blown himself up by taking a torch or grinder to a drum with gas or other flammable fumes in it. I've heard of some people filling the drum almost to the top with water to eliminate the fumes, but one can't cut with water in contact with the cutting area.
 

sle2115

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Let me just issue this warning - depending on what was/is in the tank, you want to be VERY careful putting flame to it. Been playing with torches for a long time. I recently cut up some fuel tanks to haul with some scrap I had lying around. I filled them with water first, then drained and then torched. Even then, the last one belched and ruptured. How there was any fumes in it, I don't know. Probably the best way to do it is hook a car/truck exhaust to it for 5 to 10 minutes, then cut it. Fumes can and will ignite and it's not pretty!

That being said, do you have a saber or saws all? A thin disk on your grinder (cutting disk) would work as well. Not sure what you have available, but they aren't that tough.
 

mankypro

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These were oil drums, like atf, 30w etc. Guess I could toss some solvent in there and wash it out. I have a 4" grinder, a jig saw - but pretty much everything else I have is wood cutting oriented. I could maybe drill out a couple of big holes to get a jig or sawzall blade in...

If I open the whole top I could then just use pvc to plumb it....toss a pvc nut on a threaded 1" pvc pipe inside and just silicone the crud out of it...the question is - does silicone hold up to oils...

Be careful with "dirty" 55 gal drums. More than one guy has blown himself up by taking a torch or grinder to a drum with gas or other flammable fumes in it. I've heard of some people filling the drum almost to the top with water to eliminate the fumes, but one can't cut with water in contact with the cutting area.
 
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bbressler

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I cut one open with a grinder...took a while, and used a whole disk, but I got it off...
 

gsgIDI

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mankpro,
I worked for an oil company as a roustabout for about 15 years. We were taught to use a cold chisel and a hammer to remove tops from barrels, be sure and use gloves. I know it is labor intensive, but it works use a punch to get the hole started then proceed. This is a safe method no electricity present. gsgIDI
 

Full Monte

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These were oil drums, like atf, 30w etc. Guess I could toss some solvent in there and wash it out. I have a 4" grinder, a jig saw - but pretty much everything else I have is wood cutting oriented. I could maybe drill out a couple of big holes to get a jig or sawzall blade in...

If I open the whole top I could then just use pvc to plumb it....toss a pvc nut on a threaded 1" pvc pipe inside and just silicone the crud out of it...the question is - does silicone hold up to oils...

PVC and silicone don't adhere well to each other. Better to use iron pipe, create a bulkhead compression fitting with fuel-compatible rubber washers.
Need to be careful with taking a chance on a major leak. You won't like the mess.
 

mankypro

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I've kind of changed my mind on how to plumb this thing. I'll be pulling oil from about 6" above the bottom with a pvc pipe connected to a transfer pump form the top of the barrel.

I'll be plumbing the bottom of the drum with a brass 1/2 faucet to drain off water.

I'll be chopping the top of it off - or at least half of it with a sawzall. This way I can get inside the drum to secure the male threaded end of the faucet with a brass coupler fitting which I will put behind liquid gasket - should work.
 
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