hacked89
Full Access Member
First, shout out to @laserjock for outlining detailed differences between the pedals, and a few others both here and on other forums that have discussed this.
The high level procedure has been discussed and done by many others, but I have not seen a detailed writeup that wouldn't leave you guessing at certain steps and potentially cost you money.
This also let's you see what kind of tools are needed for this.
That said, here we go.
What's needed:
- A vacuum brake pedal
- (1) 1/2" bolt
- Metal stepper bit to 1/2"
- 9/16" metal bit
- metal bit for pilot hole
- hydraulic press
- angle grinder / wheel
- welder
- drill with 1/2" chock
- black rustoleum or whatever you want
- vice (recommended)
Step 1:
Observe the pin and the weld that you need to grind off
Step 2:
Create your press pin out of the 1/2" bolt. I used a 1/2" GM suspension bolt because, as you will see, the markings already line up with perfect distances for this project's requirements. Cut the bolt as pictured.
Step 3:
Now that you have the backside of the pin weld ground flat, note the pin protrudes approximately 2.1cm, this is for when you reset the pin in the upcoming steps incase you make a mistake
Step 4:
Now set up the pedal in your press and on the backside of the pin use the press pin you made from the bolt and on the pin side just press against the pin
Eventually you will hear a little pop and your pin will be free
Step 5:
Set up in your vice and drill a pilot hole 3/4" up the pedal from the center of the original pin hole. If that isn't clear the center of your old hole and new hole are 3/4" apart.
Step 6:
Use your stepper bit to get to 1/2"
And then your 9/16" bit to get up from the 1/2".
Step 7:
Now put your pin back in the new hole, should be perfect fit and not need the press but press if you have to.
I looked at alot of pictures of the pin hole position over different trucks.
The vacuum pedals seem to be a mix of the holes in the 12oclock and 2oclock position but the hydroboost pedals always seem to be at 2oclock, so I readjusted mine from 12 o'clock to 2oclock. If you look at your old setup you see it's a bit easier when it's at 2oclock for the pin that goes through that hole.
Now weld the back side of the pin and use the plug we cut from the 1/2" bolt and weld that in as well. The reason we use 1/2" and not 9/16" is because it leaves a small space for weld to penetrate down into the pedal and we can then grind it down almost flush for a nice finish.
Step 8:
After your done welding, put the pedal assembly on flat hydraulic press blocks and straighten as needed. The earlier steps may have bent it slightly.
Step 9:
Grind it
Step 10:
Paint it and enjoy your "factory finish" hydroboost pedal
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
The high level procedure has been discussed and done by many others, but I have not seen a detailed writeup that wouldn't leave you guessing at certain steps and potentially cost you money.
This also let's you see what kind of tools are needed for this.
That said, here we go.
What's needed:
- A vacuum brake pedal
- (1) 1/2" bolt
- Metal stepper bit to 1/2"
- 9/16" metal bit
- metal bit for pilot hole
- hydraulic press
- angle grinder / wheel
- welder
- drill with 1/2" chock
- black rustoleum or whatever you want
- vice (recommended)
Step 1:
Observe the pin and the weld that you need to grind off
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 2:
Create your press pin out of the 1/2" bolt. I used a 1/2" GM suspension bolt because, as you will see, the markings already line up with perfect distances for this project's requirements. Cut the bolt as pictured.
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 3:
Now that you have the backside of the pin weld ground flat, note the pin protrudes approximately 2.1cm, this is for when you reset the pin in the upcoming steps incase you make a mistake
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 4:
Now set up the pedal in your press and on the backside of the pin use the press pin you made from the bolt and on the pin side just press against the pin
You must be registered for see images attach
Eventually you will hear a little pop and your pin will be free
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 5:
Set up in your vice and drill a pilot hole 3/4" up the pedal from the center of the original pin hole. If that isn't clear the center of your old hole and new hole are 3/4" apart.
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 6:
Use your stepper bit to get to 1/2"
You must be registered for see images attach
And then your 9/16" bit to get up from the 1/2".
Step 7:
Now put your pin back in the new hole, should be perfect fit and not need the press but press if you have to.
I looked at alot of pictures of the pin hole position over different trucks.
The vacuum pedals seem to be a mix of the holes in the 12oclock and 2oclock position but the hydroboost pedals always seem to be at 2oclock, so I readjusted mine from 12 o'clock to 2oclock. If you look at your old setup you see it's a bit easier when it's at 2oclock for the pin that goes through that hole.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now weld the back side of the pin and use the plug we cut from the 1/2" bolt and weld that in as well. The reason we use 1/2" and not 9/16" is because it leaves a small space for weld to penetrate down into the pedal and we can then grind it down almost flush for a nice finish.
Step 8:
After your done welding, put the pedal assembly on flat hydraulic press blocks and straighten as needed. The earlier steps may have bent it slightly.
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 9:
Grind it
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Step 10:
Paint it and enjoy your "factory finish" hydroboost pedal
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
Last edited:
