Rehashing an old topic: Crankcase ventilation with a turbo

bike-maker

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2008
Posts
1,168
Reaction score
14
Location
albany, OR
I made my own Banks style of adapter for the front of the timing cover, and ran a 1" hose over the top of the alternator, then down in front of the cross member. Plugged off the original CDR holes. The one in the back of the intake took a 5/8" or 3/4" plug. I would think 1" hose would be plenty. She smokes pretty good at idle, but I haven't seen any actual oil come out of it.
 

pennsylvaniabo

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Posts
784
Reaction score
1
Location
pennsylvania
i the only this i can attribute it to is the fact that she is now sucking alot more air, and now its got an RDT??? its leaking at the back of the motor?
 

94turboidi

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Posts
813
Reaction score
1
Location
Ne So. Dakota
After I put my factory turbo setup on my NA engine I think the oil drips did increase under my truck. I think alot of it is because I couldn't find the correct hose from the CDR to the air filter box and used regular hose. I noticed it was basically kinked and not allowing anything to flow through it. I don't know if my CDR is even any good anymore so now that I am reading all of this I am wanting to reseal my engine completely, take off the CDR, plug the air filter hole, then run an rdt into the exhaust. Would this work? I was thinking I could have a piece of pipe the correct size welded at an angle into the exhaust pipe and just run a hose down to it. I don't know how long the pipe should be to eliminate some heat before it connects to the hose? Maybe 2 feet to be safe.

I have already replaced the rear seal and valve cover gaskets but I am thinking of doing everything else, oil pan, oil cooler, timing chain cover, front seal, intake manifold. The truck is kinda tore apart right now anyway while I wait for the clutch kit. I have the turbo off right now also so I have alot more room to do some stuff. I am slowly getting my truck mechanically back to par and then I will do the frame, then the body.
 

f-two-fiddy

Registered User
Joined
Mar 22, 2004
Posts
2,960
Reaction score
5
Location
Duluth, Mn.
The OEM hookup is using some venturi effect to scavenge some of the gases. When You run straight to atmosphere, pressure can build up.

Has a lot to do with the condition of the engine, also. Worn engines will have to address more gases, at a higher pressure.

Lots of peeps have gone to small diameter, and complained of leaks. Either, larger diameter pipes/tubes, or going back to the OEM setup, solved the problem.

I've got 1-1/4" tube going down to the frame, then 1-1/4 conduit plumbed back to the rear axle. No leaks.
 

94turboidi

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Posts
813
Reaction score
1
Location
Ne So. Dakota
I think the exhaust should give me some venturi effect also and could look almost factory if done right. If its being drawn into the exhaust wouldn't the size thats in the valve cover be good enough? I was looking around on the internet and some people were saying that eliminating the CDR also lowered their egts because its only drawing air into the engine and not oil fumes. Not sure about that but it could be a possibility.
 

94turboidi

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Posts
813
Reaction score
1
Location
Ne So. Dakota
Would something like this picture work? I hope it displays properly I have linux so I saved it as .png instead of .bmp or .jpeg.

I got to thinking I need a upgraded downpipe anyway so I could just have one made up with a metal tube welded alongside it and angled into it and I could just run a hose towards the back of the motor and hook it up. Thats if I can find enough space back there.
 

Attachments

  • drawing.png
    drawing.png
    12.7 KB · Views: 18

Agnem

Using the Force!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Posts
17,067
Reaction score
374
Location
Delta, PA
Would something like this picture work? I hope it displays properly I have linux so I saved it as .png instead of .bmp or .jpeg.

I got to thinking I need a upgraded downpipe anyway so I could just have one made up with a metal tube welded alongside it and angled into it and I could just run a hose towards the back of the motor and hook it up. Thats if I can find enough space back there.


It would work provided that you drill a good sized hole in the side of your RDT where it enters the pipe. The venturi needs to be able to draw enough air that there is no vacuum on the crankcase. In this manner it can pull engine vapor or fresh air.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Posts
7,191
Reaction score
160
Location
Decatur,MI
Here's a link to a thread that worked over the RDT venturi setup a couple years back.

Been running mine now for a few years and works great!;Sweet
 

94turboidi

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Posts
813
Reaction score
1
Location
Ne So. Dakota
dsl dog catcher are you running it as a closed setup or with a hole for it to get access to draw in fresh air also? I guess I didn't think the venturi effect from the exhaust would be strong enough to hurt seals, I thought if anything it might help some. I am in no hurry right now, just doing a few things to the truck as money comes in and want to do it pretty decent. I haven't ever really given this much thought untill I came across this thread, but I have never liked how I get oil inside my intake and turbo.
 

Sycostang67

Scooty Puff Junior
Joined
Jun 16, 2009
Posts
1,506
Reaction score
5
Location
Kuna, ID
I'd like to do this as well since I am tired of my air filter getting contaminated with oil from the CDR. One thing I haven't really seen explained though is the CDR. Is it being eliminated in these systems? Are the vapors being drawn straight from the valve cover or front cover?
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Joined
Jan 13, 2005
Posts
7,191
Reaction score
160
Location
Decatur,MI
dsl dog catcher are you running it as a closed setup or with a hole for it to get access to draw in fresh air also? I guess I didn't think the venturi effect from the exhaust would be strong enough to hurt seals, I thought if anything it might help some. I am in no hurry right now, just doing a few things to the truck as money comes in and want to do it pretty decent. I haven't ever really given this much thought untill I came across this thread, but I have never liked how I get oil inside my intake and turbo.


Initially it was an open system but at an idle I was still getting a fair amount of vapor that was very annoying if ya had the windows down sitting at a stoplight or a drivethru window.

Apparently with a 4" exhaust system, there wasnt enough vacuum created in the exhaust stream to pull a vacuum at anything uner 1200 rpm's. :dunno

As far as hurting the seals, the turbo did that with too much crankcase pressure even with a new CDR.:mad:

So I did away with the "T" I had installed and closed the system up and it is operating just fine, but I do need to get a catch can installed into the system to hold onto the condensated vapors.

Sycostang67 said:
I'd like to do this as well since I am tired of my air filter getting contaminated with oil from the CDR. One thing I haven't really seen explained though is the CDR. Is it being eliminated in these systems? Are the vapors being drawn straight from the valve cover or front cover?

The CDR is eliminated when you convert to a RDT and the two common access points used for the RDT install are using the Banks adapter on the timing cover or the ones with the valve cover relocated CDRs.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,339
Posts
1,130,625
Members
24,140
Latest member
placidoert

Members online

Top