that's the whole idea behind mime. The plan is to "seperate" the oil mist with the Racor and then dump it into the exhaust stream with parts from the summit kit.
Rehashing an old topic: Crankcase ventilation with a turbo
- Thread starter Diesel JD
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tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
that's the whole idea behind mime. The plan is to "seperate" the oil mist with the Racor and then dump it into the exhaust stream with parts from the summit kit.
Towcat, That sounds like the way to go if venting to the atmosphere and is similar what I'm thinking about doing on the new truck. You can get the exhaust tie in tube and checkvalve separatly without buying the whole kit. One benefit is it can create a vacuum in the engine preventing oil leaks....The dragter kits were designed to prevent high crankcase pressures from high compression engines using low ension rings from blowing the gaskets out and puking oil on the track.
Here's a closed loop setup I'm also considering on the PSD, not too awful spendy at $230 - $260, prolly wouldn't take much to adapt to the IDI. The replacement filters are about $25
http://www.parker.com/racor/Prodbul/7614-ClosedCrankcase.pdf
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
that's the whole idea behind mime. The plan is to "seperate" the oil mist with the Racor and then dump it into the exhaust stream with parts from the summit kit.
I think it will work very well.
My ideas for the setup were fermented from my Buick racing days
Learned alot from running GS 455's and turbo GN's. 
There's much to be said about inovation coming off the track and onto the street. Unfortunately, Kali has literally killed most of the legal racing scene
Not to mention the work I do now will be in serious jepordy if I got caught street racing again.I have the Raccor CCV4500 kit already. I need to make time to down the '92 and do my air filter and intake tubing mods so I can have room to install the Raccor. The chevy 6.5 project is chewing up most of my free time right now, but that's on the downhill side heading towards completion. If you're bored, go take a look at the chevy corner and check out the insanity I am involved in
I have a bad feeling after I am done with the '92, my darksider budies will be givin my a bad time playing "where's the valve covers?" game that I've been doing to them for years.
f-two-fiddy
Registered User
After we had this discussion:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13128&highlight=interesting+vent
I've still been pondering some other options:
http://www.solbergmfg.com/View_Datasheet.asp?part_number=EFDB
The 1-3/4" one seems to flow 24 CFM. No idea on pricing, bet it's spendy
I've also been thinking about an industrial air compressor oil separator. I've seen them used in portable diesel driven air compressors
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13128&highlight=interesting+vent
I've still been pondering some other options:
http://www.solbergmfg.com/View_Datasheet.asp?part_number=EFDB
The 1-3/4" one seems to flow 24 CFM. No idea on pricing, bet it's spendy
I've also been thinking about an industrial air compressor oil separator. I've seen them used in portable diesel driven air compressors
John Haggerty
Birth Certificate
I RDT straight down. Fumes don't bother me. However, when I cross the border into Canada I put the CDR back.
john-
the part that concerns me the most is not the fumes or the look like a truck is on fire. the concern lies in the fact that the CDR works with the intake airflow that acts like a "siphon" or a "vacumn". I want to do the same but with the exhaust flow instead. The crankcase is undoubtediy positive pressurized when the truck is running, so any help to draw down the pressurization is good for the seals
jauguston
Retired
Call me uninformed but what is wrong with a properly operating stock crankcase vent system? What am I missing? I have the stock system on my Hypermax cool air intake tube and it connects to a new hole in the rear of the left valve cover just the way Hypermax designed it. No oil consumption and no oil smoke rolling out from under the rig, what is not to like (-:
Jim
Jim
Jim, have you looked at the turbo vanes and the intake manifold? If you don't have a coating of oil on everything in the intake inboard of the CDR valve, you'll be the first that I've ever heard of! While this doesn't automatically lead to oil consumption, that can eventually be a result.
Also, on n/a engines, it is contended that the oil coming from the CDR valve tends to go more to the rear cylinders than to the front, making those cylinders run hotter and possibly being a cause of the head gasket problems seen especially on earlier engines.
One other thing...if you have an intercooler and a CDR, you end up with an oil coating on the inside of the intercooler, which IIRC reduces its effectiveness, and if you have a LOT of blowby, you can have oil puddles collect in there.
Those are the reasons to not keep a CDR on that I can remember off the top of my head; I think there are others as well...
I will say this, though; a CDR is better than an EGR valve like M-B diesels have! An EGR on a diesel can lead to enough crud in the intake to have a serious detriment to engine performance...
Also, on n/a engines, it is contended that the oil coming from the CDR valve tends to go more to the rear cylinders than to the front, making those cylinders run hotter and possibly being a cause of the head gasket problems seen especially on earlier engines.
One other thing...if you have an intercooler and a CDR, you end up with an oil coating on the inside of the intercooler, which IIRC reduces its effectiveness, and if you have a LOT of blowby, you can have oil puddles collect in there.
Those are the reasons to not keep a CDR on that I can remember off the top of my head; I think there are others as well...
I will say this, though; a CDR is better than an EGR valve like M-B diesels have! An EGR on a diesel can lead to enough crud in the intake to have a serious detriment to engine performance...
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
Jim
There's nothing wrong with a "properly operating" stock CCV system. Problems arise when the valves fail, rings or valveguides get worn or the tubo seals fail pressurising the crankcase and blowing seals.
There are much better ways to vent a crankcase than the manufacturers use that can eliminate problems such as oiling down the exterior of the engine when seals fail.."Exxon Valdez" syndrome, oil deteriorization of intercooler boots, blowing off weak oily intercooler boots and decreased intercooler efficiency if you have that kind of setup and turbocharger problems from oiling the intake side of the turbo if you have one.
Road draft tubes to atmosphere are simply the cheapest route and not legal in many places, CCV systems like the ones metioned in this thread can reclaim oil lost by blowby and put it back where it belongs as well as reburn the gases or vent them depending on if you use a closed or open system.
Venting the excess gasses into the exhaust with a properly angled inlet pipe and check valve creates negative pressure instead of positive in the crankcase which is good for the seals and prevents leaks.
Using a combination of of oil reclamation through a filter like the RACOR CCV4500 and routing oil free gasses to the exhaust could be a best case of saving the oil, getting negative or at least neutral pressure in the crankcase and getting the, now oil free, gasses out with little, if any, smoke or smell and a well installed system prolly won't peak an emmissions inspectors curiosity as it will look like it belongs there unlike the road draft tube.
jauguston
Retired
Maybe my engine is still too new to have all these issues. If there is a film of oil from the crankcase fumes in the manifold and turbo I would not be shocked. The engine uses a very slight amount of oil and has to work pretty hard all the time as I gross 15,000 or a little more all the time.
Don't have a intercooler, no room for one on a E series.
I get a chuckle everytime someone says there is a way to get negative pressure in a exhaust system by some magical angling of a piece of pipe - Ya Sure (-:
Jim
Don't have a intercooler, no room for one on a E series.
I get a chuckle everytime someone says there is a way to get negative pressure in a exhaust system by some magical angling of a piece of pipe - Ya Sure (-:
Jim
If the idea works for you...great. If not, be happy with what you got. obviously there is something that works with the setup or it wouldn't be found on 1/4 mile cars and circle track cars. Guess carburetors defy the venturi concept too eh?
Bottom line is there's those who like to improve on what they got and there's others who are content with what they have. I'm definitely not the second of the two.
tonkadoctor
Full Access Member
You're not getting negative exhaust pressure, you get negative crankcase pressure.
The effect will work with a straight 90 degree angle but there is more risk for it backing up..If you have some time to play take a compression T fitting and hook an air hose to one of the straight through sides, now put another hose on the T fitting and drop it in a bucket of water, hold the fitting and turn on the air and it will suck the bucket dry shooting water out the open end of the fitting...You won't chuckle any more :-(
You can use the same type homade apparatus to dewater a flooded basement powering it with a garden hose if you have good water pressure and volume.
This apparatus is called an eductor, it works because of the venturi effect, they work better with steep angles and can be found in piping systems throughout ships...Firefighters also use them for dewatering spaces by hooking a fire hose up to them to power them....I have used 4" dewatering eductors powered by 1-1/2" hoses at 125 psi and can tell you for a fact that they will suck up a 2x4 and spit out big toothpicks and water at around 400+ gallons per minute.
jauguston
Retired
I am quite familiar with the concept and done correctly works fine. That is how my mediablaster sucks blast media up the suction hose.
.
The problem I have with the application I think some are wanting to make work. The venturi effect would work just fine if two things were present-first a high velocity flow across the venturi tube and two a low pressure area down stream of the venturi tube. If the venturi tube is placed in the exhaust system somewhere near the engine there will be a substantial positive pressure there. The gas flow across the venturi tube there would create a pressure drop across the tube but it would be a reduction of positive pressures never reaching negative. Mounted at the outlet of a open header collector is a whole different story.
Jim
.
The problem I have with the application I think some are wanting to make work. The venturi effect would work just fine if two things were present-first a high velocity flow across the venturi tube and two a low pressure area down stream of the venturi tube. If the venturi tube is placed in the exhaust system somewhere near the engine there will be a substantial positive pressure there. The gas flow across the venturi tube there would create a pressure drop across the tube but it would be a reduction of positive pressures never reaching negative. Mounted at the outlet of a open header collector is a whole different story.
Jim
krawlr
Yup, that's me
I tested mine with this flow meter:
The very slightest puff of air would peg the ball to the top. I tapped it in just above the valve cover. My check valve is mounted just behind the cab before the exaust bends down under the frame and into a stack that ends above the cab. The ball bounced a little at idle and stayed stuck on the bottom at all other times. It definately works.
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The very slightest puff of air would peg the ball to the top. I tapped it in just above the valve cover. My check valve is mounted just behind the cab before the exaust bends down under the frame and into a stack that ends above the cab. The ball bounced a little at idle and stayed stuck on the bottom at all other times. It definately works.
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