Recharging AC

gnathv

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You can charge it with the low side and check your high side when you get the adaptor. Use this temp/pressure chart.

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homelessduck

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This is the right one.
Awesome , thanks! So I don't need the high side connected to pull a vacuum and charge it? If that's the case I will run the vacuum pump for an hour , seal it off and let it sit over night. Then charge it in the morning.
 

homelessduck

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It got to about 28-29 inhg and wouldn't go any lower. After about 30 minutes it was still at 28-29. I will recheck it in the morning . :)
 
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homelessduck

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I just checked it again and it's still holding 28-29 :) . Time for freon!
 

CMRJ

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you can get the adaptors at any auto parts store both screwed and the quick connect type.

Also very important to pull that vacuum , if it wont pull down to 30 inch vacuum ,on the gage negative,
you have a leak . Check all your gage connections first. I know you guys dont have nitrogen but leak checking with a nitrogen charge will also dry out the system. I do a triple EVAC and break with dry nitrogen ,cheaper then using ref. 12 or 134A to leak test. Note make sure the gage is zeroed out set screw in the face.

Most AC leaks are compressor seals. I tell my buddies all the time use it or loose it. Using the AC keeps the seals wet with oil.
 

79jasper

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you can get the adaptors at any auto parts store both screwed and the quick connect type.

Also very important to pull that vacuum , if it wont pull down to 30 inch vacuum ,on the gage negative,
you have a leak . Check all your gage connections first. I know you guys dont have nitrogen but leak checking with a nitrogen charge will also dry out the system. I do a triple EVAC and break with dry nitrogen ,cheaper then using ref. 12 or 134A to leak test. Note make sure the gage is zeroed out set screw in the face.

Most AC leaks are compressor seals. I tell my buddies all the time use it or loose it. Using the AC keeps the seals wet with oil.
Dependant on elevation....

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Big Bart

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Thoughts.

It was working just fine prior. He just opened to change engines not do a A/C repair. Now sealed back up and is holding at -29 for 24 hours without moving.

He is using Harbor Frieght or other inexpensive pump and gauges. (VS Snap On, Mac, Robin Air, etc.) He could be 30, but reading slightly less due to the gauge quality.

If it was me I would charge it (I knew it held prior.), if later it was leaking down, put in die and find the leak.

However I do agree with CMRJ -
1) Use it or loose it!
2) Front compressor seal is often overlooked. (Often a clue is oil starts leaking out the front seal and down the compressor and collects dust/dirt.)
 

franklin2

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I have had systems where I had to put a can of r134a in every spring, and it lasted through each summer. So I never worried about a small leak like that. Finding that can get really expensive.
 

troutwest66

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My experience with cracking the system for any length of time is it needs to be flushed then run the vacuum pump. I changed the condenser on my '94 after seeing it had a hole in it and did not flush it. Several months later my compressor seized up so bad it smoked the serpentine belt. New compressor, orifice tube, flush and recharge in the middle of January. Your mileage may vary! :D
 

homelessduck

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Did you add Freon?

The weather has been cooler with rain so it dropped a little on my priority list. We have a green house full of plants that need to be transplanted in the garden. I have to build squirrel covers over the boxes so they don't destroy everything this year. Hopefully I can get to it this evening!
 

Selahdoor

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It takes less R-12 than R134a to do the same cooling.

It takes even less propane, to do the same. And you can use ordinary mineral oil for the oil. And propane is cheap!

Jus' sayin...
 

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