"Rebuilt" 6.9 idi with ARP studs - don't want to ruin this one too!!

[ConstantVigilance]

Icanfixall: thank you for the response.

I've only used the Motorcraft plugs (which is why it hurts so much).

The injector that I found with RTV wouldn't stay tight. The threads inside the head are worn or stripped, I can't tell. I'm thinking I'm gonna try some kind of thread repair. If I can't get the injector tight, she probably will continue to leak.

The fuel tank is topped off. But I'll look at that again when I get her going.

I was in the process of checking compression when I had to deal with some other responsibilities. I've checked 4 cylinders, and have messures 300 +- 3psi on each so far.

I wonder if they will measure on the lower side cause the motor has no miles on the rebuild.

As for the cold and warm running sound: I've noticed that for sure. She sounds a little angry when cold and purrs like a kitten when warm.




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[Joseph Davis]

Fuel is leaking out of the IP and fuel pump then back into tank when it cuts out. You need to install a one way fuel valve inline going to fuel filter. When pump sit for a long time overnight turn on fuel pump and check for air. Also check tank for vapor lock because pumping fuel up to fuel filter and back into tank can create a negative pressure in tank so listen for air rushing into tank when you crack open the fuel cap. then buy a fuel cap that vents air in but not out; solved my electric fuel pump problems. I also posted a picture showing the glow plug wiring diagrams for a 1990 7.3l idi in the forum month 1/2 ago. Contact me and I will post it again. I hope you get her up and running, good luck.

 

[typ4]

If you just let off the throttle while running does it die or just when driving? Sounds like metering valve in pump.
I disagree with the advanced timing eating glow plugs but that is my opinion.

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

J

Thanks for the response Sidweinded: The pump is less than a year old, purchased from Conestoga Diesel. It's the Bull Moose.

It was doing this to me when I had my 7.3, and I called them and talked at length to a Service/Tech guy. He wanted me to check fuel pressure from my at-the-time mechanical pump. The pressure was low to none. (interestingly enough: I could fill a pint of fuel under the testing time, but when a gauge was put on her she wouldn't register enough fuel to even bleed the tester). I replaced the mechanical pump with the electric pump and the truck ran noticeably better.

But, still, after a long drive, she simply wouldn't start. I contributed this to low compression... but I simply don't know anymore.

I understand and I know he turns out great products but you could of had some mechanical failure cause premature wear. Just for the same of argument please try dumping water on it and let me know if it changes. You need to dump at least a drinking bottles amount. I used to carry old coolant jugs full of water with me and dump about a 1/4 on it and it would fire right up every time

 

[ConstantVigilance]

Joseph Davis: Thank you for the reply. I'm going to look at those things once she's running again. I never thought that could happen, but I'm glad you figured out your problem. I hope thats it, cause it seems like an easy fix.

I have to finish looking at compression and then fix that injector port tread.

I really want to get the timing figured out before I drive her again. The idea that I ruined my last motor with too advanced timing is starting to creep in on me.

J


I understand and I know he turns out great products but you could of had some mechanical failure cause premature wear. Just for the same of argument please try dumping water on it and let me know if it changes. You need to dump at least a drinking bottles amount. I used to carry old coolant jugs full of water with me and dump about a 1/4 on it and it would fire right up every time

Sidewinded_idi: Thanks again, and your right. I need to look at that. I have about a month left on the warranty but I couldn't have more than 500 miles on that pump. It's been one issue after another. Now, some if not all the problems I had with my last motor are cropping up in this one. If the compression checks out OK, I want to think that there's something going on with the fuel lines or maybe vapor lock like Joseph Davis says. However, I was having the hard start problems and she turned off with breaking BEFORE I installed the electric pump.

I'll be giving Conestoga Diesel a call... I happen to have a good IP that came with the 6.9. It wont break my heart to install it while the Moose

Pump is sent out.

Also, back when I was trying to figure out why the truck would shut off, I thought I read someplace that it can be bad for the IP to poor water onto it. That is to say, if the IP is working properly, I shouldn't risk poring water on it. Thoughts?

If you just let off the throttle while running does it die or just when driving? Sounds like metering valve in pump.
I disagree with the advanced timing eating glow plugs but that is my opinion.

I've not tried repeating those results while not driving. I would need to warm her up real good, slowly rev the rpm's and let off the throttle. I will try this for sure. Thanks. This will probably help with the diagnostics.

 

[Sidewinded_idi]

It won’t hurt anything dumping water on it. It’s simply pouring water on the outside where the injection lines all bolt on so nothing goes inside the pump. Just to see what happens please just try it next time the truck is hot and you try to start it. It’ll answer a lot if you put water on it and it fires right up. I did it on my truck for a year with no ill effects every day. I know Mel is great at what he does but something could’ve slipped by or even water in the fuel could trash the plungers. Could be a lot of things but please just report what happens after you dump the water on

 

[ConstantVigilance]

It won’t hurt anything dumping water on it. It’s simply pouring water on the outside where the injection lines all bolt on so nothing goes inside the pump. Just to see what happens please just try it next time the truck is hot and you try to start it. It’ll answer a lot if you put water on it and it fires right up. I did it on my truck for a year with no ill effects every day. I know Mel is great at what he does but something could’ve slipped by or even water in the fuel could trash the plungers. Could be a lot of things but please just report what happens after you dump the water on

OK - I'll give her a try. I have a few things to sort out (like that injector port), but will do that as soon as I can and give you an update. Thanks again.

 

[ConstantVigilance]

UPDATE:

I finished compression testing all the cylinders I could (the cylinder with the stripped injector hole wasn't tested). I'm getting 300 +- 3psi across the board. I wonder if it will get better once I can break in the motor and "seat" the rings?

I haven't heard much about my stripped injector hole situation: I've searched: "7.3IDI INJECTOR HOLE STRIPPED", and surprisingly not many have had this problem. I've found one case where there was no followup on the solution. Of course, someone told the guy to pull the head. I'm trying to avoid that. Being that I just put the motor in.

My question is this: Anyone have an idea on how much torque and heat JB weld can take? The JB Weld site says that It can withstand 500* working and 600* for short periods. Will those threads see more than that?

I haven't been able to find anyu torque specs. These Injectors take 35lbs, which doesn't seem all that much to me.

I've also youtubed a little on this topic, and found an interesting, albeit irresponsible, fix: The guy slides in some fine copper wire strands into the hole and screws in the bolt. The copper strands bite into the remaining threads and let you torque it down pretty good.

 

[Thewespaul]

I have had this issue with a set of heads I got used, went through them valve job etc... injector #5 wouldn’t torque down....

That head went to scrap.

Jb well will not fix it

 

[ConstantVigilance]

I have had this issue with a set of heads I got used, went through them valve job etc... injector #5 wouldn’t torque down....

That head went to scrap.

Jb well will not fix it

Thanks for the reply Thewespaul.

If the head is going to scrap anyway, I'm going to give it the old college try.

 

[homelessduck]

Might be able to work something out as there a few things I want to check out up your way but it might be a few weeks. I work nights and am usually off Sunday and Monday nights so Sunday afternoon thru Monday could possibly work. Let me know if those days would work and we will see what works out. I am not above a good drive, my baby needs to blow off some soot occasionally.

If the things you are looking at bring you near Ashland I would love to get together and pay you to time my truck

 

[IDIBRONCO]

About the engine shutting off when you brake too hard. I saw that you're getting IP power from a relay that you installed yourself. Is it mounted securely so that it doesn't move? I had a 1984 Mustang that would do this. I searched quite a while for the solution. finally it did this when I had a friend riding along. When it wouldn't start again, he wiggled the starter solenoid and it started right up. The solenoid only had one mounting bolt since the other mounting hole had stripped out. I solved the problem by running a separate ground wire form the solenoid mounting bolt that was still there directly to the battery. I installed another, oversized bolt in the other hole, but didn't really trust it which was the reason for the grounding wire. I never had the problem again. I still drove that car for another 4 or 5 years after that. Maybe there's something similar happening with yours. You could test this by just running a fused power wire directly off of your battery to the FSS on your IP. Then just go drive it around and try to recreate the shutting off problem.

 

[ConstantVigilance]

Idibronco, thanks for the input.

I've got that relay mounted inside of a green plastic ammo can. It's only mounted to the side with one screw. So there is definitely the possibility that when I brake it moves a bit because I feel those wires inside the ammo can aren't exactly secured the best they could be.

I'm going to take a good look at that and probably add some more supporting items like zip ties. The relay only has one mounting hole. Perhaps I can use some Velcro.

Thanks agian.

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[IDIBRONCO]

Or you could try the grounding wire trick. I'm not sure if it will fix it or not, but that's the first thing that I thought of when I read where you said that.

 

[ConstantVigilance]

I'm going to try and upload the relay that I use. You can see the ground wire is pretty basic. I guess I could try to run that ground wire directly to the negative.

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