Rebuild

dyoung14

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Were is the best place to get rings and bearings from? i dont need/want pistons or nothing just the rings and the bearings
 

bike-maker

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The Mahle/Clevite combination mentioned by Heath would probably be your best bet. There are cheaper parts out there, but it's not a big difference price wise. In the cheap bearings I have seen, their quality wasn't as much the material they were made of, but the size consistency between the same set of bearings. Keep in mind this is an area where .0001" can make a difference. Cheaper bearings have worked just fine for me in the past, as long as I was verifying clearances with a dial indicator gauge, and adjusting the clearances acordingly.
If money is an issue, I would try to put a good set of Clevite bearings in it, and a cheaper set of rings.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Were is the best place to get rings and bearings from?


The auto parts store...LOL



Sorry David, I couldn't resist.;Poke


I have good luck with my local auto parts store since they sell parts to me at shop cost.
 

dyoung14

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The auto parts store...LOL



Sorry David, I couldn't resist.;Poke


I have good luck with my local auto parts store since they sell parts to me at shop cost.

LOL I guess i will go around and price some parts,

What im wanting to do is get this truck dependable before this spring, me and the girl friend wants to go to gaitlinburg for a couple days,

So im kinda lost at what to do,

I have the 6.9 thats in the truck thats worn out, bearings are bad and the compression is kinda low, but it still runs good i just cant trust it that far, so it would have to be rebuilt, that or i t have a 7.3 block that wouldnt run it would just crank over acted like it didnt really have no compression, i could rebuild it and then not have to have the truck down as long

Which one do yall think i should re-build?
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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I'd be more inclined to go for the 6.9 for a couple reasons. 1 it runs and 2 lesser chance of cavitation.
 

icanfixall

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Check Ebay. I see rings as oversize as 40 over all the way back to standard all the time... Same with bearings. I personally willonly go to 10 under on the crank. Any more and you are really taking a chance. The cranks are not that thick in the bearing surface area for hardening. You can grind them too far undersize thru the material.
 

dyoung14

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Check Ebay. I see rings as oversize as 40 over all the way back to standard all the time... Same with bearings. I personally willonly go to 10 under on the crank. Any more and you are really taking a chance. The cranks are not that thick in the bearing surface area for hardening. You can grind them too far undersize thru the material.

My crank is already 10 under i was thinking of swapping cranks and going to a standard one but as long as this one dont need to go any lower then i will just leave it in the truck,

I never checked the rods but i assume them to be the same,

The rings have to be 20 over
 

88beast

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cheapest i found is penn diesel
they ship i think if not i can get them for ya and ship
all oe suppliers victor reins malhe etc
heres my llist
rings 22
mains 117
rods 8.81 each
gasket set 105

want any other prices let me know they are the cheapest i found anywhere
also i can stop by i work half mile away
 

icanfixall

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Mahle pistons, rings and bearings are the oem parts. That tells me they have the right stuff.... Yes... A crank can be standard mains and 10 under rods or the other way too.... Usually its not a good idea because of the oil supply flow path thru the crank....
 

rhkcommander

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cheapest i found is penn diesel
they ship i think if not i can get them for ya and ship
all oe suppliers victor reins malhe etc
heres my llist
rings 22
mains 117
rods 8.81 each
gasket set 105

want any other prices let me know they are the cheapest i found anywhere
also i can stop by i work half mile away

They got any other parts? Rings, bearings , and gasket sound right up my alley though :eek:.
 

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