Rear Axle Oil Seals R&R...Easy or PITA?

[HammerDown]

That's probably for a semi floater. I've never had one or worked on one so I don't know.

The tool is kinda odd.. The one I have isn't actually for the nut but it works.

Almost forgot.. Make sure to check the vent. My 88 it was plugged at the fitting on the axle. Didn't find it until I put 4 new seals on one side... Almost went bankrupt buying seals...

Thanks again to everyone...over 30 years of ownership and as many times that I have changed out the rear-oil can't say I ever noticed a "vent" but I'll take a look and check it.
In the YouTube video below at (1:44) I noticed the fella using the same exact socket/tool on his ratcheting-nut 2-3/5 (odd size) and that's what mt Advance Auto has instock, wonder if it will work on my truck? (Lisle 2810, OTC6601) no one has it instock.
By chance does anyone know for sure the Oil seal part numbers (national seal) and also the large O-Ring part number for the Axle Hub cover?
I want to order parts prior to taking things apart vs finding out I have to wait a day or so for parts to come-in and my Truck is then sitting unusable.

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[nostrokes]

They should be 3". 2.5" is usually on semi floaters.
The vent should be on the driver's side, rubber tube that runs up to the frame or cross member for the bed.
If advance auto has a socket listed, chances are it will work. Not everyone sells OTC or Lisle tools. The one Wes posted I believe O'Reilly's sells.
Don't have the part numbers for the seals but there is a list of part number in the tech section here, not sure if they are on there.
Unfortunately you will have to pull the axle shafts to see if you have the O-RING that mine did. I never had to replace them so never bought them, plus that was 25 years ago....

 

[laserjock]

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I think that’s all the bearings/races and a picture of the socket. Next post is the scotseal pn. Cheaper from rock auto but skf stuff is available from NAPA.

 

[laserjock]

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[laserjock]

The vent tube holds the end of the rubber brake line block. Sorry can’t find a pic at the moment.

 

[Vern]

national (and others) 370047a

... 2.5" is usually on semi floaters.

but not always. Full floaters have 2.5".

 

[HammerDown]

Thanks again fellas, you all are the BEST!

BTW my shoes are 12"x 3" I pulled a wheel in the pouring rain lol
Drums have 5/8 holes

Parts stores are asking me..."semi floating or full floating"???

 

[snicklas]

Full float:

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Semi float:

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You should have a full float.

 

[HammerDown]

Full float:

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Semi float:

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You should have a full float.

My Hubs look like the top pic but no teeth around the Drums.
My drums look like the bottom pic with 5/8" holes.
Ugh...such confusion.

 

[snicklas]

Ignore the teeth,

The main thing I was trying to show was the hub.

Sticking out with the 8 bolts, like the top picture is a full float.

The flush-ish hub with no bolts, that is similar to what a car axle looks like, is a semi float.

I’m not sure what that gear thing is either..... I’ve not seen one like that. Maybe a specific use tone ring......

What makes the difference between a full float and a semi float axle is; on a full float, 100% of the weight is carried on the spindle and the axle shaft is only there to move the power from the differential to the hub to turn the wheel. On a semi float, the axle shaft supports the weight being carried and transferring the power from the differential.

With a full float, you can completely remove the axle shaft, that is retained by the 8 bolts and the wheel will still roll just fine. If you look a semi tractors being transported, one being driven and 2 or 3 with just the rear wheels on the ground. During transport, the axle shafts are removed, bagged and strapped to the frame near the fifth wheel, and the hubs are just covered with a chunk of cardboard and the bolts. This allows the wheels to spin free. Once they are delivered, the axle shafts are reinstalled.

 

[HammerDown]

UPDATE...
thank you all again for the suggestion and help, so very appreciated.
Especially because I didn't have to pop-off the diff cover to remove the Pinion-Pin to get the axles to slide out = saves work, time and mess, with my health it's very slow to go and I can only put in an hour or so at a time.

The 'first' socket/tool I got from Advance Auto (2-3/5 in video) did NOT fit very well but it did remove the ratcheting nut.
I returned it to a local Advance Auto and they had the SAME socket shown in post #9 and it was even less $$$ (like $15.00 part #AC649) and it engages the ratcheting-nut perfectly!

I cheeped out with offshore China drums (look nice though) only $48.00 each vs Wagner Drums $96.00 each.

Went with Wagner Brake Shoes and unfortunately the Wheel Cylinders and Spring-Kit are also made in China (the crap is all over the place) no made in USA to be found.

National-brand Hub Oil Seals are like OE and very beefy $30.00 each

No luck finding the large Axle-Cap O-Ring but mine look good and I will use a smear of either Hylomar or, Ultra Grey to help make a seal.

My OE Timken bearings & races (at least on the drivers side) look PERFECT...absolutely no need to change them out.
4 years ago the Timken bearings I used on my front Hubs were 'made in Mexico"...ain't that a shame. Also, the made in China Rotors I used are working perfectly...zero pedal vibration (difficult to find brand name parts that are not also made offshore)

I hope (weather permitting) to have the drivers side done tomorrow.
BTW...I did see the diff VENT and will be checking to make sure it's clear.
And I will grease-pack the bearings.

 

[laserjock]

I forgot to post this. I got my orings from either Home Depot or Lowe’s. I just matched the old ones. Buna rubber should be okay at that temperature and oil compatibility if I remember right.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Do not grease pack the bearings, that will only impede the axle oil from lubricating them.

Even after cleaning, the axles (and bearings) do not spin at high speed until you are on the highway, so they have plenty of time at low speed to bathe themselves in oil.

Cheers!

 

[Black dawg]

I like to use a product called hub oil (designed for oil bath trailer hubs) on the bearings before install. With the hub installed, but outer bearing removed, you can put a bunch of it in the cavity between the bearings. IT is basically just really thick gear oil. It takes much longer than most people think for oil from the differential to get to the bearings.

 

[HammerDown]

Do not grease pack the bearings, that will only impede the axle oil from lubricating them.

Even after cleaning, the axles (and bearings) do not spin at high speed until you are on the highway, so they have plenty of time at low speed to bathe themselves in oil.

Cheers!

Oh great...I DID pack the bearings on the drivers side as that's what others stated that needed to be done.
Oh well, it is what it is.