If you are using the correct 2 piece seal people are talking about, that nick will not affect anything. With the two piece seal you actually put rtv over the nick and all around that shiny surface that the old seal ran on. I always get my seal from Autozone, they used to sell Timken. It's not cheap, it's been awhile but I want to say it's almost $40.00 for the seal. But it will not leak.
Rear Axle Oil Seals R&R...Easy or PITA?
- Thread starter HammerDown
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Timken was what I used.
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Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
Looks like they are farming out the manufacture of this seal now. It's $29.99 part number 370047A.
You can see the bumps on the ID and the OD in the picture above. That is where you put the rtv. The crack you can see going around midway in the seal assembly, that is where it turns, the new seal and sealing surface is down inside the assembly.
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You can see the bumps on the ID and the OD in the picture above. That is where you put the rtv. The crack you can see going around midway in the seal assembly, that is where it turns, the new seal and sealing surface is down inside the assembly.
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The only place I can find the Timken seal (it uses the same number 370047A ) is ebay. They must have quit making them. I can't tell in the pictures in the previous posts with the Scot seals, if they are made the same. National has a 370047A that looks like the Scot seal. When you get your new seal, you should be able to stuff your 4 fingers up in the middle of the seal till it's tight on your hand, and then turn the OD of the seal with your other hand. If it's a two piece seal, the ID will sit still on your fingers/hand while the OD spins around.
HammerDown
Full Access Member
Ok fellas, with your opinion I went and purchased the Scotseal...$40.96!
However, even though I can forcibly spin it by hand, I'm not agreeing with the concept this seal is designed to spin within itself, that would certainly burn that seal up!
For sealing, I agree applying RTV to the outer diameter, but not the inner where it should spin on the spindle hub.
EDIT...I must apologize, I just got off the phone with Scotseal PlusXl tech support, and sure enough this seal is designed to spin within itself...this designe just messes with my mind!
I have NEVER seen anything like it but several YouTube videos give a cutaway description of how it is engendered and works.
However, even though I can forcibly spin it by hand, I'm not agreeing with the concept this seal is designed to spin within itself, that would certainly burn that seal up!
For sealing, I agree applying RTV to the outer diameter, but not the inner where it should spin on the spindle hub.
EDIT...I must apologize, I just got off the phone with Scotseal PlusXl tech support, and sure enough this seal is designed to spin within itself...this designe just messes with my mind!
I have NEVER seen anything like it but several YouTube videos give a cutaway description of how it is engendered and works.
You must be registered for see images attach
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It's a wonderful thing when your sealing surface is all buggered up. If you think about it, that seal turns pretty slow, even at highway speeds. It won't take long for the oil from the pumpkin to make it out there. But I do agree with priming the bearings with grease if they are new or have been washed out.
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