bike-maker
Full Access Member
I had a whole parts truck to pull stuff off of. It's the only way to do it.
Ready your chin wiping napkins!!
- Thread starter plywood
- Start date
plywood
Recovered N/A
Oh, yeah and thanks to Bike Maker on the skid plate. I actually didn't have one on the CC. When I was pulling from the F250 I thought about doing what you did with the TC, but I figured I was going to put it on the CC so I took it off.
I appreciate the heads up, I'll put everything together without it and figure out how much to cut, or maybe move it a little.
I appreciate the heads up, I'll put everything together without it and figure out how much to cut, or maybe move it a little.
towtruckdave
Resident Nutcase
Wow, that red paint looks nice on there! 
bike-maker
Full Access Member
Depends on which version you have. The one I used stands about 3-1/2" off of the bottom of the frame rails. The one out of my 89 donor truck was considerably taller. The clearance issue was between the rock guard and the trans cross member. But it won't be much of an issue if the TC is already out of the truck.
plywood
Recovered N/A
Well, I got my 12 1/4 inch clutch kit today and the Banks downpipe.
The clutch pedal bracket in the parts truck was cracked to hell so I went to picknpull and pulled one out of an F150 for $16.99. Got that installed and put in the steering column from the parts truck. It has good tilt and cruise, but without the auto shifter.
The Diesel gauges are in, and pretty much all the Diesel specific parts.
I picked up Oil Cooler O-rings and gaskets today, and mounted the switch for the GPs.
For the tranny crossmember I ended up using the bushing from the C6, and moved the crossmember back about an inch or so to the next holes back. Then I used the passenger side crossmember/frame bracket from the parts truck that had the 2wd ZF. It used the same holes in the upper part of the frame, but angled back more to meat the crossmember in the rear holes. This gives me the 41"s from the passenger motor mount to about the middle of the slot in the tranny crossmember, still leaving room for the ZF to droop down in the front of the crossmember. By the way, the pass side motor mount is about a 1/2" different from the drivers, that messed with me for a while.
Just need to get my Turbo back from Russ
, and a few exhaust/intake parts. The, the Beast should be alive!!!
The clutch pedal bracket in the parts truck was cracked to hell so I went to picknpull and pulled one out of an F150 for $16.99. Got that installed and put in the steering column from the parts truck. It has good tilt and cruise, but without the auto shifter.
The Diesel gauges are in, and pretty much all the Diesel specific parts.
I picked up Oil Cooler O-rings and gaskets today, and mounted the switch for the GPs.
For the tranny crossmember I ended up using the bushing from the C6, and moved the crossmember back about an inch or so to the next holes back. Then I used the passenger side crossmember/frame bracket from the parts truck that had the 2wd ZF. It used the same holes in the upper part of the frame, but angled back more to meat the crossmember in the rear holes. This gives me the 41"s from the passenger motor mount to about the middle of the slot in the tranny crossmember, still leaving room for the ZF to droop down in the front of the crossmember. By the way, the pass side motor mount is about a 1/2" different from the drivers, that messed with me for a while.
Just need to get my Turbo back from Russ
, and a few exhaust/intake parts. The, the Beast should be alive!!!
plywood
Recovered N/A
Well, I got the truck running on Sunday, and was able to drive it yesterday.
Here is my final bug I can't seem to work out.
When I turn the key to ON there is power to the starter but it drops power to ignition. The guy who had the parts truck the steering column and part of the wiring came out of had a push button on his truck so I figure he had the same problem. I went and got a new ignition switch, dropped the column, put it in, and same thing.
Here is my final bug I can't seem to work out.
When I turn the key to ON there is power to the starter but it drops power to ignition. The guy who had the parts truck the steering column and part of the wiring came out of had a push button on his truck so I figure he had the same problem. I went and got a new ignition switch, dropped the column, put it in, and same thing.
Try readjusting the switch, .
plywood
Recovered N/A
Meaning, you're supposed to adjust it in the first place 
I'll take a look at that, would that mean it's throwing the switch too far or not far enough?
I'll take a look at that, would that mean it's throwing the switch too far or not far enough?
likely not far enough, usually happens when the pieces in the column are not assembled correctly.
Tilt columns are so fun.
Tilt columns are so fun.
fordf350dually
ih power
a c6 and 410s is 4300 at 65 lol mine ia anyhow
plywood
Recovered N/A
Ok, got it figured out. Turns out there are wiring differences under the dash.
I hoped that plugging the harness in at the engine side of the firewall would be enough, but nope. Only thing left now is the temp gauge isn't working. Well, maybe a couple other little bugs.
Specal thanks to Russ, Typ4 for the rebuild on the turbo.
ANYWAY, HERE ARE VIDEOS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Jxt2TrN0zw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58TqR3Q7S_Y
I hoped that plugging the harness in at the engine side of the firewall would be enough, but nope. Only thing left now is the temp gauge isn't working. Well, maybe a couple other little bugs.
Specal thanks to Russ, Typ4 for the rebuild on the turbo.
ANYWAY, HERE ARE VIDEOS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Jxt2TrN0zw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58TqR3Q7S_Y
plywood
Recovered N/A
Well, I've got about 300 miles on the truck and it's doing great.
Drove 100 miles each way to the Coast and pulled my buddies boat to fish the ocean so that was fun for a sort of maiden voyage.
So far I've been able to check about a 100 mile stretch which showed 16 mpg, so close enough for what that test is worth.
It pulled all the hills in the coast range in OD with just a crack of the throttle.
So far the IP is how it was in the F250, a little turned up I think but not sure exactly.
I don't think I'm running much boost since when I tried to adjust it I broke the rod and used a nut as a rod coupling, so I would imagine it's probably less than factory setting now. For now it's all I need for driving around. Maybe later I'll plug the wastegate for fun.
Drove 100 miles each way to the Coast and pulled my buddies boat to fish the ocean so that was fun for a sort of maiden voyage.
So far I've been able to check about a 100 mile stretch which showed 16 mpg, so close enough for what that test is worth.
It pulled all the hills in the coast range in OD with just a crack of the throttle.
So far the IP is how it was in the F250, a little turned up I think but not sure exactly.
I don't think I'm running much boost since when I tried to adjust it I broke the rod and used a nut as a rod coupling, so I would imagine it's probably less than factory setting now. For now it's all I need for driving around. Maybe later I'll plug the wastegate for fun.
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