Radiator options for a 7.3 stuffed into a 56 Ford F250

[stude]

Any of you guys have any suggestions on radiator options for putting a 7.3 in a 56 Ford pickup? The OEM radiator is approximately 33"Wx 32.5"H. The space I have to work with (without getting into major frame and body rework) is 34"Wx24"H. I can modify the frame so that the radiator will fit between the rails, but it will still be about 4" below the frame to the bottom of the radiator. Not my first choice if I can avoid it.

I bought a 91 F Super Duty with a 7.3, ZF542, and 5.13:1 Dana rear axle. Frame is rusted out as I live in the rust belt. I need a truck to tow a relatively heavy trailer (when loaded with firewood. I an old 53 Studebaker, but it only weighs about 2800 lbs, so I am hesitant to tow weights that are probably twice what the truck weighs with it. I figure the F250 will be between 4500-5000 lbs when done. It will be heavy duty enough, for sure, but more importantly, it will be something different... if I move forward with the project.

 

[franklin2]

The 56 Ford( I had a 53) has a very tall hood. You can't go up a little bit, and maybe down also, and split the difference? I can't remember if there was a brace in the hood near the radiator(I want to say there was) that you might have to dodge.

I know those old trucks did some heavy work in their day, but if you compare the late model trucks the the early one, they aren't built nearly as heavy duty as the later trucks. Just look how tall the frame is on the newer truck compared to the old one. Then compare the braking system.

 

[stude]

Yes the hoods are tall on the 53-56, but the tall part is too narrow, so basically with the original radiator, I would have to stay near even with the tops of the fenders. It is possible that I may gain a little.

I am aware that modern era trucks use a heavier frame. I will not be abusing the truck to the point that I have any concerns of bending or twisting anything. I would use the original 8' bed. My concern with the Studebaker being so light is that the loaded trailer could push the truck around should the trailer brakes work unevenly, or not at all.
With the 56 F250 using the front and rear axle from the 91 Super Duty, I would have heavy duty 4 wheel power disc brakes, not to mention an extra pair of tires for traction, so no worries there.

Also, if I use the 91 SD radiator, I will most likely have to open up the lower valance on the 56 to allow air to reach the lower radiator.
Last year (or two), I was looking at doing the same thing with a Studebaker 1.5 ton truck. I had emailed a custom radiator company and asked a about a smaller radiator for the IH IDI engine, but they never replied. That is why I thought I would check here first, in case anyone has ever done this before.

 

[franklin2]

I don't know what your final ride height is going to be, but letting the radiator hang down should not present a cooling problem if you follow what all the car manufacturers have been doing. If you look, any car with those little "designer" type grills in the front always have a long stiff piece of plastic hanging down in the front, the one that gets caught on the parking lot bumpers all the time. This is where the "real" air for the radiator's use is coming from, they scoop it from underneath and send it up to the radiator. They usually have a rubber seal on top to seal the top of the radiator to the front radiator support, and the air has no where to go but through the radiator.

I see no reason why you could not incorporate something like that in your design. So long as you have a good strong fan pulling the air through, since when you are pulling a heavy load you usually are not going very fast anyway. Custom radiators are expensive. See if you can use what you have.

 

[stude]

My plans would be to have the ride height stay at the stock level, which shouldn't be a problem with damaging the radiator. Tire diameters currently on the 56 and the 91 are real close, but I will have to add a leaf or two to the 56 springs to accommodate the additional 300+ pounds of the 7.3. To be on the safe side, I could install a structural lower guard, which could also be an air scoop or air dam (as you described above) under the bumper, to protect the lower radiator.
I was tossing around the idea of using electric fan(s) which would free up some firewall clearance to the engine as opposed to using the clutch fan. I suspect with the radiator being so low, the fan would not align properly with the radiator shroud anyway.

I am thinking this is very doable. Being currently unemployed, I have lots of time, just no money, so not spending cash on a custom radiator is a good thing. Maybe I will get started on Friday....

 

[laserjock]

I don't know for sure what the dimensions are, but some of the non AC trucks had the shorter wide radiator. Might be worth looking at. Should be able to search like an 85 non-AC manual 6.9 and come up with the dimensions.

 

[79jasper]

Without an actual pic, sounds like he has the tall narrow radiator. So the other would probably be way to wide.
Although expensive option, could have one custom made.

Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk

 

[lindstromjd]

There's a guy over on PSN that stuffed a PSD into an old 50's dump truck. Check out his build thread and see which route he went. I don't remember exactly what he did for his cooling system. His username is MarkFuga.

 

[JRNOLL]

If I remember right that the 55 ford Customline with the 272 v-8 with heater had a 32 qt. cooling system which is the same as my 99 PSD. The customline was a sedan. Hope this helps.

 

[IDIoit]

now this is a project thats right up my alley!
for your cooling needs, give afco a call!
IMO they are the countrys leading cooling system source!
i have delt with many many custom projects and they have ALWAYS came through for me.
they are kind of pricy, but they provide custom top notch products.
in my experience, their customer service is unsurpassed, which is worth the price.

if youre truly serious about this project i highly suggest that you box the entire frame,
as i am a die hard ford truck fanatic, i would not use the front end. unless you have a straight front axle and want 4wd.
if you are looking into building a 2 wd, i still wouldnt use a ford front end.
i have done several trucks, and i would highly suggest using a 1 ton late 70's to early 80's GM front cross member and suspension.
yea yea i know, chevy parts? the reality is that these front ends are super easy to install, not for just the cross member, but for the steering box as well.
fords always seemed to be too much of a pain in the rear. the steering boxes are mostly mounted with some obscure front mounting plate in the frame.

right now i have a 63 ranchero that i put on a F350 4wd frame, for the ease of the project, this is what you really should do.
it deleted me having to box the entire frame. along with lots of other fab work.
if you got the time, and the patience go for it! if i were you, id scour craigslist for a truck with a good frame no engine/trans.
im not scared of doing major fab work, but in the end, its just alot easier, and stronger

 

[franklin2]

I know you should not care what other people think, but when you do a complete frame swap you are categorized as "one of those" and are shuned by 99% of the old car crowd.

I still have considered a complete frame swap from time to time on different vehicles, their opinions don't stop me. But I am trying to look at it from their perspective trying to figure out why they hate it so much. I will admit a newer frame is a pretty ugly piece. Most older frames are straight and a little more elegant in design. They don't seem to have a problem with modifying the original frame, installing a newer crossmember and other different components as was suggested. They would most likely embrace the diesel engine and it's components also.

People, especially old car people can be very fickle sometimes, so don't go trying to please them too much. Just something to think about though if you have to sell it at some later date.

 

[IDIoit]

I know you should not care what other people think, but when you do a complete frame swap you are categorized as "one of those" and are shuned by 99% of the old car crowd.
I still have considered a complete frame swap from time to time on different vehicles, their opinions don't stop me. But I am trying to look at it from their perspective trying to figure out why they hate it so much. I will admit a newer frame is a pretty ugly piece. Most older frames are straight and a little more elegant in design. They don't seem to have a problem with modifying the original frame, installing a newer crossmember and other different components as was suggested. They would most likely embrace the diesel engine and it's components also.
People, especially old car people can be very fickle sometimes, so don't go trying to please them too much. Just something to think about though if you have to sell it at some later date.

anyone in the old car world, that actually does all their work, would not bat an eye at a well done frame swap.
ive been building custom cars for 3/4 of my life and well dug into the old car scene. i got alot of greif bringing my 87 F350 into a pre 1964 car show,
but with a 64 T bird hood, and after i told them there was a keg of PBR in the back, and they quickly let me pass.
you should see the looks i get when i tell them that my 1930 coupe is on the back burner due to me building my trucks
yes they are fickle. but most of them just come out of pocket to get a camaro clip done on their 32 ford roadster

its ALL about what the builder wants to do. i say frame swap, because of his desire to tow. a frame swap may seem like a big deal, but body mounts are not that hard!
there alot easier than doing custom suspension upgrades! not to mention alot safer if your welding skills are sub par lol

a couple of months ago i had a customer want to put his 57 chevy on a 69 chevy frame. took me about 15 hours for the swap.

it cost me about 250 in steering u-joints and body mounts.
but he paid a whole lot more!
and this way you can use a stock radiator, and not have to pay an arm and a leg for a custom one.

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this is my radiator mock up brace on my 63 MANchero. still has some mods that need to be done.
ill be back on that project soon.
89 F350 frame, and a 01 SD radiator.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[stude]

The problem with swapping to a good, modern frame is that the modern frames are all rusted out here in northern NY. I have an 82 F150 with rusted/broken frame that donated it's powertrain to my 53 Studebaker 2R5 pickup. Same thing with the 91 SD I have now, rusted through between the cab and bed. Had the frame been good, I would have fixed the OEM 91 cab and sheetmetal, and just drove it.
The 56 F250 frame is perfect. The front axle in the 91SD 2wd is a straight axle as opposed to an F350's twin I beam, so it would be a relatively easy install with the possible exception of the steering gear, which is something I need to look at before going too far. I have no problem running a straight front axle, my Studebaker still has the original s.a. in it.
I am actually working on a deal to get an 89 F350 dually carcass, that had a diesel engine. Frame looks like it might be ok, but the cab and sheetmetal are shot. Depends if I can barter for it or not. In the end, I would still rather have a 50's era truck than a bricknose F series. I like the 80-86 style, not so much anything after, although I could live with it.

 

[stude]

You must be registered for see images attach

this is my radiator mock up brace on my 63 MANchero. still has some mods that need to be done.
ill be back on that project soon.
89 F350 frame, and a 01 SD radiator.

You must be registered for see images attach

Cool Manchero project. Putting car bodies on 4x4 frames was huge back in the 80s, but you don't much of it anymore. My first car was a 72 Ranchero, wish I had one today, or its Gran Torino Sportsroof brethren. I would like to see your Manchero project when finished.