I would recommend something bigger
Questions about Facet pump conversion
- Thread starter miles1400
- Start date
Depending on how the timing is currently set, even 5 psi might be too much and can totally screw up how it runs. I should have checked the pressure before removing the leaking mechanical pump when the engine was running fine. I put a Holley red.
At highway speed at ~5PSI (gauge hooked up when driving), my RV can't do more than 60MPH with the pedal to the floor. Nothing else was changed. The engine starts fine every time instantly (even after sitting for a couple months) and idles fine. Drives fine around town fine too, but top end is lacking a little. Trying to get up to highway speed, it's lacking top end power totally. The last ~3/4 of the pedal seems to do nothing to it now.
Video here showing 7PSI at idle, 5PSI with the pedal to the floor only able to do 55-60MPH tops on the interstate:
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
I had to buy a cheap Mr Gasket "dial" pressure regulator to drop the pressure. I have yet to test drive it with forced lower pressure, but many people online report 1-3 PSI with good working mechanical pumps.
So just be aware that you might need to either time your engine right after going to electric, or use a pressure regulator to lower it.
Dunno where they got these specs but it says 2PSI on the fuel filter inlet and 1PSI on the outlet: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/...diesel-engine-performance-specifications.html
Last edited:
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
The issues with the Facet, other than diminished reliability these days, isn't pressure, it's volume at higher engine RPMs. Our engines require a large amount of volume since they are constantly returning the unused fuel back to the tank. The Facets drop inlet pressure a lot at higher RPMs. Just about any electric pump can deliver enough pressure and volume at idle speeds.
Have a Facet on my '86 crew cab with a moose pump and injectors. I run a fuel pressure gauge as well. Never have had any fuel volume or pressure problems and run it with a fuel pressure regulator. It sits on the drivers side frame rail just in front of the FSV.
Have run Holley's before. They work but have found they fail sooner than I'd like. They are not intended for diesel and I suppose that leads to them leaking for failing.
Heath
Have run Holley's before. They work but have found they fail sooner than I'd like. They are not intended for diesel and I suppose that leads to them leaking for failing.
Heath
Last edited:
Op
NO!
I towed to Ak. With the fuel lamp on anything beyond a molehill.
Truck kept going but, how do I know how much more could my rig do with a better pump.
Changed to a holley when I got home,.
+1 on the retime and top end change in boost under load(no reg. Yet) the rig has never lit the lamp since!
I feel the oem ford mech. Is the clear winner.
A elect. With a bypass reg. In 2nd.
And Fawcett on the shelf where it belongs.
Remember it's for a 1-2 cyl compressor drive...
NO!
I towed to Ak. With the fuel lamp on anything beyond a molehill.
Truck kept going but, how do I know how much more could my rig do with a better pump.
Changed to a holley when I got home,.
+1 on the retime and top end change in boost under load(no reg. Yet) the rig has never lit the lamp since!
I feel the oem ford mech. Is the clear winner.
A elect. With a bypass reg. In 2nd.
And Fawcett on the shelf where it belongs.
Remember it's for a 1-2 cyl compressor drive...
miles1400
Full Access Member
heath, do you happen to remember what model number pump you are running on the crew cab?
Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
I’d like to help convince you not to run a Facet. On the surface the high suction lift, reliability, built in suction screen/bowl and simplicity of installation are all positive. However the flow was designed for a roughly 2.4 liter 4 cyl ****** engine. The 1/8” pipe inlet and outlet should the first clue. The through port in 1/8 pipe fittings is right at 1/4 inch. Not a lot of gph at 6 psi.
Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
I have used them for about 10 years on two trucks. On a basically stock 6.9 with the Facet pump mounted by the tank switching valve. This was good for 4-5 psi light load but 2 psi towing which I seldom did so it worked ok. On my 91 with Banks Sidewinder, improved exhaust and intake and Moose Jr., I could draw it down to 0 psi pretty easy even just a long 7 percent grade empty in 5th at 8 psi boost.
Both of the trucks have had tanks dropped, suction bells replaced, coupler orings replaced, hoses replaced.
Both of the trucks have had tanks dropped, suction bells replaced, coupler orings replaced, hoses replaced.
miles1400
Full Access Member
everything before the ip is low pressure, correct. the mechanical lift pump probably does not produce alot of psi or gph so why would the facet pump not provide enough fuel?
Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
So for the 91, since I had a spare new Facet, I installed a second one in parallel theoretically doubling the volume. This works ok but sometimes drops to 4 psi running flat out. Gonna go a different way soon as I can afford it.
miles1400
Full Access Member
garbage_mechan, do you remember what model number pump you have? i plan on mounting my pump in the engine bay behind the passenger side battery, with it being that close to the filter and ip would it provide a good psi?
hacked89
Full Access Member
The answer to your question is...it depends. Anytime you change something on a system from how it was originally designed you need to redo the math for that component.
There's alot of great ancedontal and experience based feedback in this thread, but always be cautious on the internet from following along with something, because your situation may be different. You may find someone with essentially the same setup as you and you can copy what they did to save time.
Ultimately it comes down to what peak GPH you require, and what pump can do that GPH at the desired pressure.
You have to pay attention cause there's marketing tactics, like saying it flows 35GPH but it's at zero pressure.
So for fuel system math/flow dynamics..
On a N/A motor I had calculated 30gph requirement on one of Selahdoors threads this year, and 70GPH on my truck.
To your other question, I have heard the mechanical ones do 30GPH, and a true 30GPH. They run faster with the RPM and produce force not limited by the bit of electrical power you supply them.
From that, it's no surprise what others have said with turbos in this thread like @Garbage_Mechan about being able to pull them down to zero.
The guys with the fuel pressure gauges that responded to you is very good examples.
To summarize, you need to find something that truly flows 35GPH ish @5psi to the injection pump if you are stock N/A. The IDIs get fuel hungry quick when you start modding.
If you need any calculation help let us know. We also have great vendors in this community.
I'm going to run a Warlbro high pressure on my turbo build and regulate it down. If you have any plans to start modding and turbos I would look into that..
Also holley blue and black.
Not sure what your plans are for the future.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
There's alot of great ancedontal and experience based feedback in this thread, but always be cautious on the internet from following along with something, because your situation may be different. You may find someone with essentially the same setup as you and you can copy what they did to save time.
Ultimately it comes down to what peak GPH you require, and what pump can do that GPH at the desired pressure.
You have to pay attention cause there's marketing tactics, like saying it flows 35GPH but it's at zero pressure.
So for fuel system math/flow dynamics..
On a N/A motor I had calculated 30gph requirement on one of Selahdoors threads this year, and 70GPH on my truck.
To your other question, I have heard the mechanical ones do 30GPH, and a true 30GPH. They run faster with the RPM and produce force not limited by the bit of electrical power you supply them.
From that, it's no surprise what others have said with turbos in this thread like @Garbage_Mechan about being able to pull them down to zero.
The guys with the fuel pressure gauges that responded to you is very good examples.
To summarize, you need to find something that truly flows 35GPH ish @5psi to the injection pump if you are stock N/A. The IDIs get fuel hungry quick when you start modding.
If you need any calculation help let us know. We also have great vendors in this community.
I'm going to run a Warlbro high pressure on my turbo build and regulate it down. If you have any plans to start modding and turbos I would look into that..
Also holley blue and black.
Not sure what your plans are for the future.
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I have a stock turbo IP turned up 3-4 flats from stock setting on my 7.3 and I can make my facet pump sit at 0 psi on my electric gauge pretty easy flooring the truck, but I can't hold it at 0. I'll eventually be moving pretty good or melt a piston.
My 6.9 with a moose junior pump is the same way, but it sits just above 0 floored.
Granted on my 7.3 I've forgotten to turn my fuel pump toggle switch on and driven the truck for 20+ miles without one.
My 6.9 with a moose junior pump is the same way, but it sits just above 0 floored.
Granted on my 7.3 I've forgotten to turn my fuel pump toggle switch on and driven the truck for 20+ miles without one.
miles1400
Full Access Member
my truck was NA, my friends and i from vo-tech installed the banks turbo kit in November, when the truck was finished we turned up the na ip 2 flats. i looked up the spec for the mechanical lift pump and it says 3-5 psi under load. the facet pump is 33gph with 9-11.5 psi. if i do a stage 1 ip and injectors would it not have enough fuel with the pump only doing 33gph? it should hopefully have enough psi. my ip and injectors are both old and the ip with reach its "lifespan" (125k) next year and when i have to replace them i woud prefer to upgrade them to stage 1s
miles1400
Full Access Member
on monday night when i started this thread i was not in any "time crunch" for info, but last night i filled up the truck with diesel and the fuel filter light started blinking. i made a separate thread for that if you guys want to look at it. from the info the guy told me on the thread it sounds like my mechanical lift pump is going to die soon so i want to get the electric pump conversion done so the truck wont leave me stranded if the mechanical LP dies while im driving
