Putting in my new clutch....rear main seal too?

[Trying my best]

Someone told me that I should do my rear main seal as a matter of course while the trans is out. What do you all think?

 

[Devon Harley]

Depending in miles over 130k replace it usually go around 200-220. Replace now for piece of mind an back ache later

 

[stumiister]

I would change it now since the trans is out and it is alot eaiser to get to no instead of doing this job again just to change the rear mani seal next week when it decides to leak.

 

[Mulochico]

What they said ^^^^^

 

[Dave Barbieri]

This also gives you the opportunity to check the seal area on your crankshaft for grooving. If it's there, you can install a speedi-sleeve and eliminate the possibility of a future oil leak. Devon, Stu and Mulo are spot on - you're looking at an extra 20 minutes now versus hours of work at some later date. When it won't be nearly as convenient. No contest!

 

[Trying my best]

Cool thanks, is there a better place to get a rear main seal? Ford part or is napa ok? I'll do some looking into a speedi sleeve, I've never used one.

 

[icanfixall]

Ford sells a rear main seal with the speedi sleeve you need. It also has an installation plastic tool for the job but I never could make it work. Just expect to have a groove worn in the crank seal flange. You are better off removing the rear seal plate from the block. you will see the bolts but the two that are hidden under the pan rail must be removed too. You will find a paper gasket back there too. No worrys about replacing that. Use some rtv same as whats used for the oil pan gasket. No cork or rubber oil pan gasket has ever been used by the factory. they used rtv. So have most every owner here too without any leaks. We only learn of leaks when someone installs a gasket because they got one in a overhaul set or they could buy one thinking it was the right thing to do. Ford does sell the rear seal cover gasket but its really not needed. Rtv will work fine there just as it does for the oil pan. The new seal that comes with the sleeve wil have to be pressed in the cover deeper than the old seal because its a twin lip seal. Not a single lip like your removing. Test fit the plate and seal till its completely on the sleeve. The directions will tell you not to seperate the sleeve from the seal or you will ruin it... Not true but be careful placing the seal over the sleeve lip. When it looks good. Make sure all the gasket surfaces are clean by brakeclean and dry. Apply rtv making sure the bottom pan to plate corners have plenty of rtv in there. It must be clean too or a leak is a sure thing tooo. Then press on the plate. Install the bolts and your done just that easy. The Ford part number for the seals in the parts bin but I have it here...F2TZ-7601-A. International charged me $84.00 when Ford parts online charged me $34.00..... Be cautious where you buy from... I think the uhaul site called utechcenter has one for sale chesp too. I will look there and post it if I find one..

 

[riotwarrior]

Like that old FRAM filter add on tv....pay me now...or pay me later....

If you plan on keeping the truck...paying for those parts and the few minutes to install now....are a lot cheaper than paying later!

Just saying...

Al

 

[Black dawg]

Someone told me that I should do my rear main seal as a matter of course while the trans is out. What do you all think?

Have you inspected the seal?

 

[Trying my best]

Thanks everyone, good advice. I have not inspected anything yet as my I have not started the job. I'll call my local ford place and see if I can get the parts by Saturday, that's when I'm doing the job.

 

[Trying my best]

Ford sells a rear main seal with the speedi sleeve you need. It also has an installation plastic tool for the job but I never could make it work. Just expect to have a groove worn in the crank seal flange. You are better off removing the rear seal plate from the block. you will see the bolts but the two that are hidden under the pan rail must be removed too. You will find a paper gasket back there too. No worrys about replacing that. Use some rtv same as whats used for the oil pan gasket. No cork or rubber oil pan gasket has ever been used by the factory. they used rtv. So have most every owner here too without any leaks. We only learn of leaks when someone installs a gasket because they got one in a overhaul set or they could buy one thinking it was the right thing to do. Ford does sell the rear seal cover gasket but its really not needed. Rtv will work fine there just as it does for the oil pan. The new seal that comes with the sleeve wil have to be pressed in the cover deeper than the old seal because its a twin lip seal. Not a single lip like your removing. Test fit the plate and seal till its completely on the sleeve. The directions will tell you not to seperate the sleeve from the seal or you will ruin it... Not true but be careful placing the seal over the sleeve lip. When it looks good. Make sure all the gasket surfaces are clean by brakeclean and dry. Apply rtv making sure the bottom pan to plate corners have plenty of rtv in there. It must be clean too or a leak is a sure thing tooo. Then press on the plate. Install the bolts and your done just that easy. The Ford part number for the seals in the parts bin but I have it here...F2TZ-7601-A. International charged me $84.00 when Ford parts online charged me $34.00..... Be cautious where you buy from... I think the uhaul site called utechcenter has one for sale chesp too. I will look there and post it if I find one..

I just googled that part number...no luck. Am I missing something?

 

[Trying my best]

Never mind I searched without the dashes, and it came up

 

[icanfixall]

Sorry.. I mixed up the numbers.. This is what you need...F2TZ-6701-A..... I posted the number as 7601... Silly mistake on my part.... No idea what the 7601 part number is and hope you didn't order one...

 

[Trying my best]

No problem, haven't ordered one yet. Thanks