Project Truck - 89' F250
- Thread starter renjaminfrankln
- Start date
renjaminfrankln
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Sweet. I will give them a call, maybe someone will know which one I need to order.
Pull the gear out and check what color you have first
There's actually two gears. One in the tcase and one on the cable itself.
How many teeth are on the drive gear inside your transfer case? (possible options are 6, 7, or 8 teeth)
What is the axle gear ratio?
How many tire revolutions per mile? (Look on your tire manufacturers web site)
The formula for finding the correct speedo gear is: drive gear x axle ratio x tire rev/mile ÷ 1000
That will give you the number of teeth on the gear you'll need.
renjaminfrankln
Full Access Member
Thanks for the comments on the speedo gears. I have yet to tackle that.
As soon as I got it back from the gear shop the floodgates opened on my minor oil leak. I have zero time to work on it so I finally got it into a diesel shop. The turbo was leaking from the drain and they advised pulling the turbo off to get decent access to replace the drain... the estimate was reasonable for that job and as of right now the turbo is off and in transit to @typ4 for a rebuild and compressor wheel upgrade.
Its been a bad few weeks for the truck but I'm so close to having it to where I can daily drive it. I have four cars right now and that will go down to three when I get the truck up and running again.
As soon as I got it back from the gear shop the floodgates opened on my minor oil leak. I have zero time to work on it so I finally got it into a diesel shop. The turbo was leaking from the drain and they advised pulling the turbo off to get decent access to replace the drain... the estimate was reasonable for that job and as of right now the turbo is off and in transit to @typ4 for a rebuild and compressor wheel upgrade.
Its been a bad few weeks for the truck but I'm so close to having it to where I can daily drive it. I have four cars right now and that will go down to three when I get the truck up and running again.
renjaminfrankln
Full Access Member
Couple updates. Pulled exhaust manifolds for new gaskets a few months back. Still haven't kicked the oil leak. I'm pulling the IP, intake manifold, and valve covers over the next 2-3 weeks to re-torque the heads, seal up any leaks. I want to put a hose barb on the new valley pan for the turbo drain. Are the valley pans aluminum or steel? A friend of mine is pretty good at welding/fabrication and i'm sure we can make it happen.
At the same time I am probably going to eliminate the factory glow plug controller, harness and install new motorcraft glow plugs. I will probably buy the kit from Wes for the harness. My system works fine but the wiring is a little crazy and the glow plugs are diesel Rx. They were installed by the previous owner and have low miles/work fine, but i'm worried they will swell up over time, so i'm going to swap them out.
At the same time I am probably going to eliminate the factory glow plug controller, harness and install new motorcraft glow plugs. I will probably buy the kit from Wes for the harness. My system works fine but the wiring is a little crazy and the glow plugs are diesel Rx. They were installed by the previous owner and have low miles/work fine, but i'm worried they will swell up over time, so i'm going to swap them out.
Did fixing the exhaust leak help your boost issues?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I'm pretty sure that they're steel. A magnet will tell you really quickly if I'm right or not.
renjaminfrankln
Full Access Member
When I pulled the valve covers off in March, the #1 cylinder exhaust valve guide was worn completely out and the valve would wobble back and forth when you grab it.
heads are off, just got them back from the machine shop with new guides/seals/valve job. Hope to have them back on by the end of the week. Cylinders all look nice, still have the crosshatch pattern from the factory.
I pulled the harmonic balancer and replaced the front main seal as well.
the factory glow plug controller is getting replaced with a setup from Classic Diesel Designs, as well as a new intake hat from CDD and I had Wes send me a set of head gaskets with the 6.9 cooling mod done. It should look a lot cleaner when I’m all done.
heads are off, just got them back from the machine shop with new guides/seals/valve job. Hope to have them back on by the end of the week. Cylinders all look nice, still have the crosshatch pattern from the factory.
I pulled the harmonic balancer and replaced the front main seal as well.
the factory glow plug controller is getting replaced with a setup from Classic Diesel Designs, as well as a new intake hat from CDD and I had Wes send me a set of head gaskets with the 6.9 cooling mod done. It should look a lot cleaner when I’m all done.
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renjaminfrankln
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BTW I am missing one cylinder head alignment dowel pin. It may have gone with a head to the machine shop and didn't make it home. Anyone know if I can pick one up anywhere besides the ford dealer? Or the ford part #
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I think I could get you the Ford part number, but it would be tomorrow night. You do know that you have to remove the plugs in the heads and block to finish the cooling mod, right? I was asking because the plugs are still in your block in your pictures.
renjaminfrankln
Full Access Member
Yup. Today I am going to pull them out and finish prepping the block. If I have enough time I might even get one of them on. I got it scraped pretty well, as good as can be done with a plastic scraper. I also sprayed the head down with wd-40 and very lightly scrubbed the whole thing with a brass brush by hand.
There is still a tiny bit of gasket material in some places. What's the opinion on very carefully taking a fine wire wheel to it?
BTW I plan to remove the plugs by tapping one side with a chisel like you mentioned in the 7.3 cooling mod thread. 4 in the block and 2 in each head I believe.
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A wire wheel may take off more than desired. When we did my buddies 460, and what I commonly do on turbine casings, is get brake clean and fine steel wool. If that doesn't do the trick, we go to a razor blade and carefully scrape the material off. In some instances a ******* file held firm and flat and gently massage the gunk.
renjaminfrankln
Full Access Member
BTW the cylinder head alignment dowel for the 7.3 idi is ford # E3TZ6A008A
Found one locally, picking up tomorrow
Found one locally, picking up tomorrow
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