you ever consider like a utility bed/box flat bed design? it wouldn't be cheaper unless you made one.
Project Big Red
- Thread starter laserjock
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david85
Full Access Member
Yeah, its tough to get the joint sealed up properly so they don't rust again. And when you're dealing with lap joints that are not sealed, moisture will linger for days after a single drive in the rain. The only reason these bodies last so long is they get totally immersed in primer at the factory. Take apart enough sheet metal and you'd be surprised how well it works even in the tightest places. A lot of my finishing work after welding involved taping off drain holes and then pouring epoxy primer into the joint. You can try weld through primer but I remain skeptical as to how well it works. Maybe if you had a pinch welder, but in that case, I'd sooner use weld-through sealer or panel bond.
Considering the time I put into my box, I would have happily paid $2k to get one that was truly rust free. Although any claim of 1980s steel in Canada that's rust free is almost always false.
Considering the time I put into my box, I would have happily paid $2k to get one that was truly rust free. Although any claim of 1980s steel in Canada that's rust free is almost always false.
I hope it’s as good as it looks. I’ve been burned before. Do up a “rust free” bed to have it bubble out 6 months later. That’s a real ******. Oh well. I’ve made my bed now time to lie in it. Pun intended.
I didn’t get much done today while I was servicing my daily. I did bang most of the big dent out of the bed.
Got at it by pulling the gate hinge plate and going at it with a punch through the hole.
It’s not great but I’m not ashamed to fill it now.
Time to field strip it and give it a good bath.
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Got at it by pulling the gate hinge plate and going at it with a punch through the hole.
You must be registered for see images attach
It’s not great but I’m not ashamed to fill it now.
Time to field strip it and give it a good bath.
junk
Full Access Member
Good deal on the bed!!! I think that's a great way to go. Nice score!
So on my bed which was storm damage, but rust free from california I put por 15 on the pinch weld before putting it in service. Not sure if it's going to help me a lot, but my thought was to seal that damn pinch weld better. I reached up in there with a brush. make sure to wear a throw away long sleeve shirt. I reached in with my arm above the metal fender line and por 15 the weld on the top as best I could. Couldn't see a damn thing though.
I'm still rust free at this time, but time will tell.
So on my bed which was storm damage, but rust free from california I put por 15 on the pinch weld before putting it in service. Not sure if it's going to help me a lot, but my thought was to seal that damn pinch weld better. I reached up in there with a brush. make sure to wear a throw away long sleeve shirt. I reached in with my arm above the metal fender line and por 15 the weld on the top as best I could. Couldn't see a damn thing though.
I'm still rust free at this time, but time will tell.
what i have seen work is spray fluid film in all the metal over laps, there is also a spray wax. it might be a cleaner option.
i know an older fella that bought a 2003 dodge truck new and sprayed oil in all those areas and it is the cleanest dodge i have seen in NE.
in my opinion i think this could work better then paint. it seems moisture always finds its way in the middle of paint and metal. vs when oil is in that area moisture cant be.
i know an older fella that bought a 2003 dodge truck new and sprayed oil in all those areas and it is the cleanest dodge i have seen in NE.
in my opinion i think this could work better then paint. it seems moisture always finds its way in the middle of paint and metal. vs when oil is in that area moisture cant be.
david85
Full Access Member
Fluid Film is amazing stuff! I'd use it on any vehicle new or old, classic or workhorse. You can buy a few rattle cans or get a gallon and spray with an undercoating gun. New Hampshire Oil is a similar product that claims to do what many of us already knew FF could do.
All paint will fail eventually, but it does slow the progress if it was applied to properly prepare surface. If you spray fluid film into crevice joints (most prone to corrosion), it will seep into those very flaws between the paint and the metal. Once you have flaking or scaling rust its usually a lost cause, but if you keep Fluid Film in there from day 1, its like a clotting agent for steel. It never sleeps, and it spreads faster than rust.
Yes, I'm a big fan!
david85
Full Access Member
Try a C-clamp with some flat metal plates to spread the load. (access through the tail lamp opening). Might be able to clean up some of those creases.
That’s a great idea. I tried it with a big pair of Channel locks. Minor success. I’ll give that a try.
So today all I got done was stripping all the stuff off the bed and removing the moulding. I hate that job. This experience has taught me a couple things. I took the fender braces out in no time flat. I’ve never done that. It usually requires a grinder to remove what used to be the bolts. Clean metal is so much better. I really hate you west coast guys. No wonder you don’t hate life when you need to work on an old vehicle.
Think I’ll give it a quick bath then flip it up on end for the pressure washing to commence.
Think I’ll give it a quick bath then flip it up on end for the pressure washing to commence.
I have worked on a few 90s to 2000s vehicles from the south-west area and it's like easy.
Hey don’t forget to include us Texas guys in the rust free discrimination! Glad you got some good sheet metal to work with, bet you wish you did that two years ago right 
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