Please walk me through installing a new ignition switch.

[sassyrel]

6nidis--i hope pops didnt put any sort of grease in that act rod----it draws dirt--and in cold gets exceed sticky-----theres a product that farmers use to paint the inside of gravity boxes-- a paintable graphite---leaves it slippery--but doesnt attract dirt---done a few of these when worked at ford garage---oil,grease,90w oil---alll attract dirt---then bind the snot out of it---even wd40 will attract dirt--so will penetrating oil when you spray it in there to try and get it to come free---

 

[4play]

i dont think i have ever seen a switch spring fail, i have seen alot of switch failures and replaced a crap load of them throughout the years and the recall. but it could be bad. i would suspect alot of this is from lack of lube. you can pull the lock cylinder out and lube gear. then cylinder too. if you have tilt then the switch actuator could need lube or its on its way to breaking in two.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

6nidis--i hope pops didnt put any sort of grease in that act rod----it draws dirt--and in cold gets exceed sticky-----theres a product that farmers use to paint the inside of gravity boxes-- a paintable graphite---leaves it slippery--but doesnt attract dirt---done a few of these when worked at ford garage---oil,greae,90w oil---alll attract dirt---then bind the snot out of it---even wd40 will attract dirt--so will penetrating oil when you spray it in there to try and get it to come free---

REALLY. No kidding. I dont think he put grease in there, but I do recall him saying he soaked everything down with ZEP pretty good.
Oh well, it'll be fine until the spring. Im pulling the column back apart at that point to replace the tilt bearings. So then I'll clean and dry everything and use that graphite stuff. If you can remember the name of that stuff it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[4play]

there are a few "dry lubes" silicone or graphite. the factory uses grease not sayin thats the best but something in there is better than nothing at all.

 

[mankypro]

moly used in ammo and firearms should work

 

[towcat]

just how brutal was this? I burned out a starter today, as it stayed actuated b/c the ignition stayed in that position after I started it and I couldn't hear the starter turning.

The key sometimes sticks in the ccw start position so I assume that the ignition key barrel assembly and such is screwed up. Any ideas?

stop and check out your slider switch ASAP. the snap back feature is in the slider and you're lucky you didn't have thermonuclear meltdown on your electircal.

 

[cm1hedge]

Thanks Towcat. That is what I was talking about.

 

[sassyrel]

REALLY. No kidding. I dont think he put grease in there, but I do recall him saying he soaked everything down with ZEP pretty good.
Oh well, it'll be fine until the spring. Im pulling the column back apart at that point to replace the tilt bearings. So then I'll clean and dry everything and use that graphite stuff. If you can remember the name of that stuff it would be greatly appreciated.

its called slip-plate---and its really slippery---drys to touch--

 

[CJCJ]

stop and check out your slider switch ASAP. the snap back feature is in the slider and you're lucky you didn't have thermonuclear meltdown on your electircal.

By "slider switch" you mean the switch at the bottom of the column?

I went to start the "Mastodon" and it was hard to turn and then a popping noise. The key switch will move to all positions and the rod appears to move good.(except for some play from the off to on position) Yet the it will not spring back from the CCW position nor engage the starter.

I suspect I need a new switch at the bottom of the column? Would the column rod move if the actuator lever was broken? Just trying to troubleshoot this no start issue. Thanks!