Plastic connector thingy......

4x4TruckinGirl

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Okay, so I went ahead and started on the injector venture... good news, got all the fuel lines off without too much headache. I feel like no one has touched the passenger side because it can easily frustrate you trying to get in there..... bad news... apparently I am not strong enough to get the injectors out.... Tried the rubber mallet deal already.... :mad: Other bad news...... on the back side where # 8 runs over to #4 there is a cheap little plastic connector and it up broke, or well it crumbled when I took the lines off. Where can I get one of those? Or is it something I can just get at an auto parts place n make it work? :dunno Also, on the passenger side the o-rings are all brittle, while the drivers side ones appear to be in good working order but are getting replaced anyways. So, if I cant get the injectors out (ive been sorta workin at them for an hour at least) I'm probly gunna regret it?-cuss



Also, I got the intercooler , we're gunna try and put it in tomorrow.
 

Full Monte

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You need a fuel-line return kit. It comes with the plastic caps for the injectors, new rubber line going between the caps on each injector, and o-rings to replace the old ones. It's important to keep these in good shape or you will lose a lot of fuel.
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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I have the whole kit already. This is an additional, little connector thing, dang I think I have a picture of it, I need to post it. it connectos from the #8 injector to a place on the back of the motor and then the T part connects to the #4 injector.
 

Full Monte

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Working on these diesels is a knuckle-busting activity at best. Nothing makes you equal to the task of loosening tight bolts and injectors more than a wrench with a long handle and a six-point deep socket. I also found that having a platform to stand on in front of the truck helps. I got mine at Home Depot. It's called a Gorilla, I think, made by Cosco. It's an aluminum platform about 5 feet long with a couple of folding ladder-legs on the ends.
It even has a tool tray.
 

icanfixall

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Pictures would really be great. It really sounds to me like the PO didn't ever replace the return lines on the hard side. If the plastic thingy is on top of the injectors you will have that part in the return line kit. Just lay out all the parts like you were making up the set. You will find that part... Why are you pulling the injectors? This does sound like a good idea.
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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I am doing the injectors, or well, WAS doing them, but now its just O rings and lines, because i was having leaks like crazy on the passenger side, drivers side was just fine, but may as well do them ya know? Here are some pics of the connector thingy, it says "1/4 M" on the top and thats the ONLY writing on them. Hopefully the pics will help. As for a stand of some kind to step on, I have my nifty toolbox! :D
 

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NCheek

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As far as I know, that plastic tee is a hardware store fix for the original part. You could probably find the same part made of brass and be good to go...
 

towcat

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sam-
the "T" connection is not factory. it's put on so the return line can be relocated away from the turbo. any automotive store should have a 1/4" brass "T" to replace the plastic item you have there.
good idea on the toolbox. just a suggestion, if you have anyone else other than you standing on it, you might want to secure some plywood on the surface to minimize deforming/denting the lid.
 

icanfixall

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Yeap... Thats a piece of shiezle for sure. Just do as posted and buy that from any good auto parts store. Or do away with it. All you need is a way for both banks of the return lines to get back to the tanks. I run a line from the # one injector under the intake directly to the back of the # 8 injector cap. The # 8 cap connects to the return line to the tanks.
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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Thanks ya'll. I got the replacement "T" things at the hardware store. Almost done with this adventure. It's HOT HOT HOT out so it's sorta like workin' in an oven!!
 

discbrks

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Oh c'mon girl... it can't be any hotter in Florida than it is here in Georgia. Just drink plenty if beer... I mean water.
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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Dang, when that sun comes out its 100+ and HUMID! I just called it quits for today, return lines and o rings are all in place. Havent fired it up yet though... and started tearing into the front end so we can get this intercooler on tomorrow hopefully, weather depending.......yay!
 

Diesel JD

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It sure was hot down here today, no relief either till the afternoon thunderstorms show up. I guess you gave up on the injectors. They are really tough to get out the first time, and much easier subsequently. I didn't want to insult you by suggesting you might not be strong enough to pull them out, but its not really intended to be sexist or anything cause I really was barely strong enough to get them out the first time, and I had the advantage of having the heads off and the ability to beat on them as much as I wanted to with nothing in the way...still one or two had to be removed by the machine shop. After reinstalling and antiseizing them almost anybody good with a wrench could get one out and back in in no more than 10 minutes on my truck. Better luck with the intercooler. That truck is already way cool and the intercooler will be a real nice addition.
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Hey Sam, I just want to make sure, because one of the pics makes it look like that crossover return was ran under the back side of the turbo? If it is, BAD BAD idea. The original kit would have had a cap or two with the T built into them, one of those caps being on 8 and the other being on 4. The line between the two is supposed to run IN FRONT of the intake hat, away from the turbo and all its heat. If the line is run under the back side of the intake hat its too close to the turbo's exhaust heat and can boil the fuel or worse melt the hose and then you have BIG problems.

If its done in front of the intake hat then just disregard this post.
 

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