Mont91
Full Access Member
The spline tightning sleeves were like the speedy sleeves for front seals. They are a temporary fix, worked better on old low speed farm equipment then automotive applications.
Pinion nut loose AGAIN!
- Thread starter Dsl_Dog_Treat
- Start date
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
After tinkering with it some last Friday, I am beginning to think there is something else wrong inside the pig.
When rotating the driveline by hand, there seems to be a spot when I first get pressure on the ring and pinion, then turn it a little farther and I can hear a clunk.
The rear end has an open axle on it and am beginning to think that things may be getting worn causing some slop and may be some of the vibrations I am feeling as the rear end will get very hot even after a 10 mile trip.
Gonna drain the fluid ou this week to see what is in there and how the oil is looking.
Now to figure out the re-occurring brake adjustment issues.
Backed off the adjuster 1 1/2 turns and are now back too tight after 200 miles of driving.
When rotating the driveline by hand, there seems to be a spot when I first get pressure on the ring and pinion, then turn it a little farther and I can hear a clunk.
The rear end has an open axle on it and am beginning to think that things may be getting worn causing some slop and may be some of the vibrations I am feeling as the rear end will get very hot even after a 10 mile trip.
Gonna drain the fluid ou this week to see what is in there and how the oil is looking.
Now to figure out the re-occurring brake adjustment issues.
Backed off the adjuster 1 1/2 turns and are now back too tight after 200 miles of driving.
Russ
Idont do injectors
Ron, is it possible the adjusters were swapped from one side of the truck to the other? Just grasping at straws here.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Russ,
I never took them apart on the resto and all was good last summer after the brake job I did..
I'm grasping here too.
I never took them apart on the resto and all was good last summer after the brake job I did..
I'm grasping here too.
Mr_Roboto
Full Access Member
If you put adjusters on backwards (on the wrong side) they will loosen, not tighten.
I guess you could disconnect the adjuster (cable or spring) and manually adjust them every so often.
I guess you could disconnect the adjuster (cable or spring) and manually adjust them every so often.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Well I had some time to knock off the right set of duallies last night after mowing and I found the lower spring, that keeps the shoes pulled together, had come off, it almost appears to have broken.
All of the hardware was replaced last summer and has less than 10,000 miles on it and totally ate those brake shoes.
Fortunatly I had a spare set of shoes that came off the Beef that had plenty of meat left on them and was not worth turning in for cores yet.
Best figgered so far is that the spring being off there allowed the adjusters to tighten up at will since there was not much restriction to keep them tight.
Today I'll see if'n I can get the shoes warrantied. :Sly
Tonight, the left side.
All of the hardware was replaced last summer and has less than 10,000 miles on it and totally ate those brake shoes.
Fortunatly I had a spare set of shoes that came off the Beef that had plenty of meat left on them and was not worth turning in for cores yet.
Best figgered so far is that the spring being off there allowed the adjusters to tighten up at will since there was not much restriction to keep them tight.
Today I'll see if'n I can get the shoes warrantied. :Sly
Tonight, the left side.
Ron, sorry I haven't been following this too closely. Is there a vibration still? Maybe the vibrations are working the adjusters? How do you know they are too tight? Is it heating up, or does it "feel" tight? I had a similar problem with the Moose Truck once, and it just cleared up on its own.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
There is still a vibration felt even after I replaced the right side shoes last night and the broken spring.
The brake drums were getting very hot after just a short 10 mile run before and the engine was seeming to "struggle" trying to get some speed......Still turbo testing. :Sly
Last nights shakedown proved to be much better as the truck got up to speed much quicker and even hit 11psi boost.
The vibration is still there but I didn't have time to crack the left drum open as the shop lights were going off(sun) and I needed to get the little ones.
I still have to get a new crush collar and pinion nut to get that isue resolved but the brakes are first as the left side may have cooked the axle seal.
One thing I have also noticed is the urethane bushings, being much more rigid that the factory ones, transfer any and all frame vibrations up into the cab as this is gonna take some time to get used to.
The brake drums were getting very hot after just a short 10 mile run before and the engine was seeming to "struggle" trying to get some speed......Still turbo testing. :Sly
Last nights shakedown proved to be much better as the truck got up to speed much quicker and even hit 11psi boost.
The vibration is still there but I didn't have time to crack the left drum open as the shop lights were going off(sun) and I needed to get the little ones.
I still have to get a new crush collar and pinion nut to get that isue resolved but the brakes are first as the left side may have cooked the axle seal.
One thing I have also noticed is the urethane bushings, being much more rigid that the factory ones, transfer any and all frame vibrations up into the cab as this is gonna take some time to get used to.
krawlr
Yup, that's me
I love this place, but dogonnit... So I have have some looseness, probably 3/32 side to side. What are the chances my pinion splines are ok? Does anybody carry yokes besides Ford?
Aaaaaa phoey maybe I'll just rebuild it and toss a posi in.
What ratio should I go for?
So I have have some looseness, probably 3/32 side to side. What are the chances my pinion splines are ok? Does anybody carry yokes besides Ford?Aaaaaa phoey maybe I'll just rebuild it and toss a posi in.
What ratio should I go for?
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
krawlr said:Aaaaaa phoey maybe I'll just rebuild it and toss a posi in.
Personally, I think if I had the time and money to change both axles on my truck, I would do a limited slip with 3.73's. I had 3.55's and they were not enough gear, just needed a little lower. I now have 4.10's and love them for pulling, but it would be nice to lower RPM's on the highway, although mine sees it very rarely - I had to go pickup my sisters totalled firebird the other night on my trailer, handled 60-65 fine, but would do better with a little taller gear. OD would be nice, but I will look for a different truck before I lay out that kind of cash.
krawlr
Yup, that's me
jpw said:
Anybody have a part# for the newer yoke?
Krawlr
You will need matching ring and pinion to go with later sytle yoke( splines are longer).Randy's R&P #YY F100606 is the 8 hole round flange type yoke, E9TZ4851A (4 BOLT MATES WITH U-JOINT CAP?) or F8TZ4851BA (ROUND?)may get you started in the right direction at Ford BUT you need a good drivetrain or ford parts guy to work out the details.
You will need matching ring and pinion to go with later sytle yoke( splines are longer).Randy's R&P #YY F100606 is the 8 hole round flange type yoke, E9TZ4851A (4 BOLT MATES WITH U-JOINT CAP?) or F8TZ4851BA (ROUND?)may get you started in the right direction at Ford BUT you need a good drivetrain or ford parts guy to work out the details.
krawlr
Yup, that's me
jpw said:
Yea I figured I'd go ahead and upgrade the whole schmoo. If Randy's carries it I'll just go through them for everything.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Well the vibration still persists.
I replaced the u-joint just behind the transfer case as it did show slop from inspecting it.
The vibration seems to be at the 2200-2600 rpm range in O/D.
It can be felt in the shifter for the t-case more that the trans shifter.
I pulled the pinion nut back off and inspected the yoke splines and from the pic, it can be seen that there is definite wear on the yoke splines.
I'm not sure if this could be the cause or not but am to the frustrated stage as I'm hitting the road this afternoon and will be taking the truck.
This is gonna be one good bug to figger out.
I replaced the u-joint just behind the transfer case as it did show slop from inspecting it.
The vibration seems to be at the 2200-2600 rpm range in O/D.
It can be felt in the shifter for the t-case more that the trans shifter.
I pulled the pinion nut back off and inspected the yoke splines and from the pic, it can be seen that there is definite wear on the yoke splines.
I'm not sure if this could be the cause or not but am to the frustrated stage as I'm hitting the road this afternoon and will be taking the truck.
This is gonna be one good bug to figger out.
