Pinion nut / seal

[pafixitman]

My pinion nut / seal has had a slight leak for a bit. (Sterling 10.25) I have now started to notice the 50 mph vibration so...

I have the crush sleeve elimination kit from Russ and had always thought I could attack the seal from the yoke side. The more I google the more I am thinking I need to open the pumpkin to do this correctly.

Any insight would be appreciated. If I have to remove carrier etc I am almost considering bench rebuilding another rear drum to drum and swapping for reduced down time.

can I ghetto repair it by tightening the nut to buy myself a couple weeks? I am about 3 weeks behind on this house and running 7 days a week currently. Once the house is pending certificate of occupancy I’ll have some time. Once settlement happens I should get a bonus so that will help.

 

[chillman88]

I won't lie. When I bought my dually in 2015 we pulled off the yoke, replaced the seal, put the yoke back on and tightened the pinion nut with an impact.

I haven't touched it since

 

[CDX825]

Check and make sure your u joint isn't bad at the rear because they will cause it to vibrate and leak. Also check your axle vent tube to maker sure its clear. They always plug up in the nipple that threads into the axle tube.

 

[pafixitman]

I won't lie. When I bought my dually in 2015 we pulled off the yoke, replaced the seal, put the yoke back on and tightened the pinion nut with an impact.

I haven't touched it since

Thanks Chris. I’m thinking for the short term ignorance is bliss. How difficult was doing the seal?

 

[chillman88]

Thanks Chris. I’m thinking for the short term ignorance is bliss. How difficult was doing the seal?

I don't really remember so it couldn't have been too bad lol.

I believe it was as painless as removing the yoke, prying the old one off, tapping the new one in (as you would any other seal) and replacing the yoke. I didn't do anything special.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I believe it was as painless as removing the yoke, prying the old one off, tapping the new one in (as you would any other seal) and replacing the yoke. I didn't do anything special.

This sounds about right to me.

 

[chris142]

I won't lie. When I bought my dually in 2015 we pulled off the yoke, replaced the seal, put the yoke back on and tightened the pinion nut with an impact.

I haven't touched it since

I do similar. I beat the end of the nut so that it locks onto the threads again. Then run it down by hand till it stops then 1 uggadugga.

 

[catbird7]

If your truck is an extended cab or crew, make sure you verify the carrier bearing isn't causing the bad vibes.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

+1 on checking your carrier bearing as Catbird said above. It’s easy abs cheap to fix when you have the driveshaft out. Mark the driveshaft, just so you are sure it’s the same phase when you reassemble.

I wouldn’t be afraid to swap the seal and reinstall the pinion nut, but I would clean the threads on the pinion and nut until clean and dry (totally evaporating brake cleaner and blow gun), then blue loctite and torque to +5%/-0% of torque spec.

You’ll fix that pinion seal, it will stop leaking and you’ll never touch it again. Or it will keep leaking a little bit and you will have to top off the gear lube in it, it will keep leaking a little and you can fix it when you get time/occupancy/bonus.

Keep hammering nails: as long as it leaks it means there’s still oil in it

 

[Clb]

At LEAST torque to spec with locktite .
More snake oil fix'$ are rtv black it all up where the yolk seals the splines and under the nut also.
Impact guns are for dissembling stuff.
I will hit you in the back of your hand if caught rattle gunning my stuff!
Exactly why NO ONE touches my junk!
Ok burning the soapbax.