Oil Pressure Issues.....????

[tractorman86]

its the oil gnomes all over again. They only come when you aren't looking.... Nobody has ever seen one and nobody could pick one out of a lineup....

see i wasnt lying, icanfixall (gary is it? i am horrible with names, sorry) has found out about them too!!!! jk i donno about runnin it N/A it sure would be a pain unless she ran it with no exhaust at all. 350 isn't too bad, hope it turns out for ya.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Okay, tomorrow I'm bringing the turbo to evergreen turbo here in town, guy seems pretty knowledgeable, says the rebuild would run around 350$ barring any major issues. That seems pretty fair to me.... In the meantime,

Sounds bout righ in the ballpark. A local shop that I get my goodies from said between 200-400 clams for a rebuild.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Ok, yet another question.... since this now isn't going to cost me 1000 bucks or more, I need to get my gauges and stuff, is this a good time to put the pyro in or am I wrong to think it would be easier now with the turbo off? I'm trying to get all my stuff together since it's off anything I can do easier now i'd like to.....

 

[Russ]

Good time to drill the manifold. The metal chips will blow out and not into the turbo.

 

[RLDSL]

Well, I kind of figured that, but if it's something else, I need every penny I have to fix that other problem, which apparently I haven't found yet. Also though, I had already planned to put a bigger downpipe on, where can I get that at? Anything else I can do to make it better I would rather do since it's off, the rebuild kits, is that something I could do? What about this rear main seal theory? lol

keep in mind the turbo rebuild estimate is likely to go up by the price of an impeller wheel (unless that's just loose dirt on the picture), about $85
THis guy on ebay has the rebuild kits , that one was for a non wastegated ATS, not sure if the factory unit is the same T3/T4 center section or if it's a different one, some else will know that, but that guy has kits for all of them.
It's not overly difficult to do armed with a can of Aero Kroil to loosen the bolts and I found one of those craftsman funny end wrenches ( most sears sell small sets of three that are about $24) priceless for getting the super stuck exhaust side bolts out . it comes in handy when clocking the thing when mounting it up too.
and two pick tools to remove the snap rings retaining the bearings
Once your kit arrives,you send your wheels back to him with specified parts from the kit and he will balance the assembly. When you get it back it will have lines in pen , when you assemble it, just line up the wheel , shaft and tighten down the nut till the nut lines up and it is balanced.

Reassemble the outer housings leaving the outer bolts slightly loose to clock them into position and mount the whole works up and tighten it all down.

I've always sent turbos out and just did my first one a few months ago. Fairly painless considering no instructions to go from.
This would give you an idea of what you'd be in for He doesn't show replacing the rings. Fairly easy, you need flat internal snap ring pliers and open the thing just enough to get them over the shaft and into the groove. if you open them too far, they won't compress into the housing ( don't ask how i found this out , but if yours is a t3/ t4- hybrid, I got a few spares while I was in town if you end up needing one ) Went in second time like a charm once I bothered to ask someone here for directions ( when all else fails, read instructions )
Thing works BEAUTIFULLY>

If all that sounds a bit intimidating, go for getting it rebuilt

 

[Diesel JD]

Oh man, it sure is nice to have help on these projects. The intercooler would be a BIG project, anything that will directly bolt in is going to cost 1000 bucks and up. If you or any of your friends have good fabricating skills and you can get one from a Super Duty 7.3 it would probably be in the 200-300 range. The downpipe is a little different story. The one you have is quite restrictive, but it is the only thing that will slip right into the exhaust flange you have. ATS has the updated flange but its going to cost $500 or more and it might still suck. Classicfordguy from Orlando did something where he welded a 3 inch piece of tubing to the factory ATS housing and used 3 inch flex tubing for the downpipe. I'd always wondered why after all that work he didn't just use a 3 inch to 3 inch pipe adapter (available at autozone or NAPA cheap) and adapt that to a 3" mandrel bent downpipe. Yes ATS has those, if you're dead set on one get it from these guys http://jhdiesel.com or perhaps that big truck exhaust shop in Ocala could bend you up one that you'd be happy with. I think your ATS if its like mine has a port for the pyrometer in the turbo up pipe which is still on the hot side, though not quite as hot as the manifold. I just don't like the idea of drilling the manifold, too much chance for something to get squirrelly, but if you want to many here have done it and it does give the most accurate readings, but even in the up pipe port 1000-1100 degrees is probably a safe number. The boost port is somewhere on the intake side snail, just pop that guy in there. You want the Isspro 0-15 boost gauge, and probably an Isspro 0-1500*f pyro. I currently have a Stewart Warner Unit and it seems to be working but its real rednecked together and as a 3" gauge doesn't really seem to go anywhere. Oh on the ATS flange, I'm not sure but I almost think Classicfordguy said he still had it...maybe he'd deal if he does? You should definitely try to talk to him about this issue either way. Good luck, I think the $350 is fair and if it needs a new wheel 60-100 more will be still fair. If not thats probably for bearings, seals an an hour and a half of labor.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

I'm thinking I'm still going to take the turbo somewhere, I don't have very good luck and wouldn't want to miss something or make some small mistake that I will regret and only find out after its all bolted back in and whatnot, lol!

As for the downpipe, ATS, whom I talked to yesterday said they make one for the stock setup that I have, a 3" one, but they are on backorder for something to the tune of 3-4 weeks!! That being said, was this guy wrong saying it's a boltup for the setup I have? I was going to try truckpro and also call those people at J&H. It just seems silly not to do all this stuff since the turbo's off and I can set up the stacks now too.

As for the intercooler, I was planning on trying to find one off a powerstroke, the kits for this truck are way to expensive. This project may have to go on hold depending on funds, only thing is I do have a friend willing to help and do the fabrication now. I dunno, we'll see what I figure out.....

Again, I always say, I really do appreciate all the help!

 

[RLDSL]

As for the downpipe, ATS, whom I talked to yesterday said they make one for the stock setup that I have, a 3" one, but they are on backorder for something to the tune of 3-4 weeks!! That being said, was this guy wrong saying it's a boltup for the setup I have? I was going to try truckpro and also call those people at J&H. It just seems silly not to do all this stuff since the turbo's off and I can set up the stacks now too.

J&H doesn't actually stock any of ATS parts, they just take orders and have tham drop shipped from ATS so if ATS is back ordered, than J&H isn't going to have it either. the only advantage to J&H is they price the things a few bucks cheaper. I ordered my downpipe through them, but it turned into an ordeal, because ATS took well over a month to ship the thing ( and it wasn't J&Hs fault they proved to my satisfaction that they had put through the order and paid ATD for the thing , ATS just likes to string people along).

The Larger downpipe that ATS has is not exactly a bolt up, you have to buy the kit from them( which is a bolt up ) which has a larger exhaust housing and if I'm not mistaken, the usual thoroughly annoying ATS slip fit *beat the *#$%^@!! out of it to get it together* fittings that like to leak, instead of the nice bolt up flanges the factory setup has. Something to consider.
They used to get $800 for the housing and downpipe, it looks like they've dropped the housing to $283 and the downpipe is around $85 plus whatever exhaust mods on the bottom end to match it up.
If you aren't entering sled pulls, the factory downpipe setup should be satisfactory , especially considering the complete lack of any kind of mountains higher than about 100 feet within about 400 miles of you

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

I don't plan on living here for too much longer though....might be some mountains in the forecast...... What if I got a place here to custom make one? I just don't like the idea of this downpipe how it sort of gets constrictive as it goes down then open up again, seems pointless...... Maybe i'm crazy!

Should have the turbo back by monday.... yay! I found a few intercoolers off of 99's and 00's will that setup work? they were asking between 200 and 250 bucks......... Gosh, I like spending money......

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Hey Sam, I just got my pics loaded up on my conversion, and installed a SD intercooler, Here is a link:

http://community.webshots.com/user/DarrinGT

It would be pretty much the same on your truck.

I bought this intercooler piping kit off of E-Bay that worked well: About $100.00 shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...m=190219984710&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=009

However I did buy the factry Ford intercooler boots and clamps for $120.00 but they worked the best for the IC Inlet and Outlet.

You should be able to find a used SD Intercooler for $100 to $150 with out a problem. I will check a few of my sources and see if I can come up with one.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Neat, I looked through all the pics, they might come in handy when we get started on this project.... The piping you bought off ebay was the one for a maxima? I'm just double checking....... If you find an intercooler, let me know, much appreciated help!

I'm sort of glad this stuff happened I guess, get a chance to make things a lot better without spending too much money....!

 

[RLDSL]

I don't plan on living here for too much longer though....might be some mountains in the forecast...... What if I got a place here to custom make one? I just don't like the idea of this downpipe how it sort of gets constrictive as it goes down then open up again, seems pointless...... Maybe i'm crazy!

Should have the turbo back by monday.... yay! I found a few intercoolers off of 99's and 00's will that setup work? they were asking between 200 and 250 bucks......... Gosh, I like spending money......

A few folks have rigged up their own downpipes and have been happy with the results.
I should think a quality 3" flex pipe welded to the factory piece and manuvered down in there would make for a usable downpipe. either that , the ATS or the stock setup you already have are your best bets.
A few people have said that the ATS upgrade was the biggest waste of money they ever spent, and they didn't notice anything performance wise over the stock downpipe, so you might want to consider that before whupping the snot out of the piggy bank.

Finding an exhaust shop that can bend 3" pipe is a good trick,most don't have equipment that can handle pipe that big, and buy the time you pay by the hour to have a cussed'em downpipe fit into the thing, you'd be into $$$

 

[Diesel JD]

Pretty much everybody around here will bend up to 3" pipe, its anything bigger than that they won't touch, that having been said getting MANDREL bends in a 3" pipe is a more specialized thing. Makes me wonder about that truck pro source if they may have the capabilities. Also you could check with AutoJet, they do a lot of stuff like that and they may just have what you need.

 

[RLDSL]

Pretty much everybody around here will bend up to 3" pipe, its anything bigger than that they won't touch, that having been said getting MANDREL bends in a 3" pipe is a more specialized thing. Makes me wonder about that truck pro source if they may have the capabilities. Also you could check with AutoJet, they do a lot of stuff like that and they may just have what you need.

Truck pro has pre bent mandrel bent sections in all varieties in all of the larger big truck sizes, but they do not custom bend on the premisis.
She's got the factory one off, might be able to match the bends up to a few bend pieces cobbled together Still have to worry about firewall and transmission clearance.

 

[69dieselfreak]

the flex pipe down pipe will be hands down the easiest i would think get it in stainless and it would look good at the same time that was a very good idea and u also got ur flex joint ill probably do that to my hypermax turbo