Oil filter and wrenches??

[Noiseydiesel]

Yeah, this potentially beat to death subject is back again, Coming due for another oil change and cussin' the thought of changing the filter with a rotten strap wrench that doesn't have enough length to spin the filter off. I used a pipe extension on one and bent it quite nicely. Now it is pre-bent for my convenience. No, I did not dry gasket the filter upon installation last time or the one before that either .
Next is the filter type of question. Wix and Motorcraft because of the built in check valve that others are missing such as Hastings and with the built in valve that prevents dry starts in the morning.
I thank you for your time,

 

[1mouse3]

What about a #3 or any other sharp rod, then hammer it around?

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[Noiseydiesel]

Without making a mess would be nice. I do have an 18" chisel that was attracting my attention.
I think the chisel might be an option next time, but . . .
Filter needs to get ordered soon enough. Local parts stores are impressively priced.

 

[1mouse3]

Without making a mess would be nice

I am using the powerstroke wix 51734 filter and they get a bit heavy with oil, so I punch the bottom first to drain it.

 

[Noiseydiesel]

Yeah, I might be stuck playing the "poke the bear" game.
Oh well. I will look into the 51734 filters onto a '94 7.3 idiT
Looking at your cross member is my next large project. I couldn't find a '94 7.3idiT crewcab dually 4x4 so I am in the slow process of building one. Placement of the . . . I just lost a word, Trackbar bracket to the cross member might be fun. I am hoping the 2WD OEM cross bar has dimples in it to drill for mounting the bracket. If not, I can swag it.

 

[Randy Bush]

I have started punching a hole in the bottom of the filter so it does not run down my arm when removing. Also have a large pair of channel locks that works pretty good for removing the filter. Ford never built a OBS in a crew 4x4 dually. Just in a cab and chassis standard cab. All the dually 4x4s where custom built.

 

[TahoeTom]

My local Walmart has the Motorcraft powerstroke fl1995 filters for around $12. The filter is larger and holds more oil but will fit an IDI. I am able to remove filters with a strap wrench. I do it with the oil hot, so it may turn easier than cold.

 

[chris142]

When you install the new one oil the gasket. Put it on then back it off just enough to relax the gasket.

 

[CDX825]

None of the filters for this application have an anti drain back valve. Neither the powerstroke or the IDI filters have them.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I have started punching a hole in the bottom of the filter so it does not run down my arm when removing. Also have a large pair of channel locks that works pretty good for removing the filter.
This is the EXACT method that I use too. I do loosen the filter just enough to break the seal before I poke the hole in the filter. It keeps the oil off of the channel locks that way. If you use a small hole, it's pretty easy to cover it with your finger to keep the oil inside the filter while you spin it off.

My local Walmart has the Motorcraft powerstroke fl1995 filters for around $12.The last time that I bought one at Wal-Mart, it was still $9.99. $12 still isn't a bad price these days.

None of the filters for this application have an anti drain back valve. Neither the powerstroke or the IDI filters have them. I was pretty sure on this too. They don't need one since they hang down instead of horizontally.

 

[Old Goat]

My local Walmart has the Motorcraft powerstroke fl1995 filters for around $12. The filter is larger and holds more oil but will fit an IDI. I am able to remove filters with a strap wrench. I do it with the oil hot, so it may turn easier than cold.

Tom, when you come down off the hill to Costco, Walmart is right next door as well as In N Out.

I usually don`t have a problem getting the filter to unscrew. I also use one of this type wrench.

Amazon.com

I also use one of these pans.

Amazon.com

Loosen the filter a turn or two, let it dribble for a few minutes. then unscrew and drop into pan.
Wipe off the base and make sure old seal came off with the filter. Lift your new filled filter that has the oiled seal and screw on. then give it another 1/3 of a turn.

With a second pan I drop the engine oil and let it drip a couple hours. Wipe off pan and screw in drain lug. Finally fill with your favorite flavor.

Goat

 

[Noiseydiesel]

Green pan is anti-freeze. Black pan is oil.
I went looking at Rockauto and found the only filter listed with the anti-drain back valve is the Motorcraft . . . FL784(A?)
I am picking one of those up tomorrow morning and will give it a try.

 

[gnathv]

Why are you worried about the anti drainback valve. As you’ve discovered it’s full of oil when you change it.

 

[Noiseydiesel]

Keeping oil in the engine as much as possible is a nice thing to have. Listening to bearings rattle upon startup might not be too good. Not loud, but it is present. Given enough money and time, an accumulator to pre-charge the oil system and build pressure prior to start-up, lined block cylinders, nitrated crank and cam. Theoretically would never wear out. Well, aluminum pistons would still wear with age.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I believe that the FL784 was the filter that was called for on a 7.3 IDI. I thought you were wanting a PSD filter. I'm using the FL1995 filters on my truck (soon to be trucks). Personally, I don't care one lick about the extra quart of oil capacity. I just want the better filtration that the PSD filters have.